What should i do next? EJ207 build - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-29-2017, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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What should i do next? EJ207 build

Hey guys, im new here.
Have got:
Fresh EJ207 ENGINE
Cosworth 272 Cams
FMIC
GTPS03 Turbo running 19psi
ID 1000 CC Injectors
500HP Fuel Pump
Short throw shifter
heavy duty clutch
Ecutek stage 2 tune.
Full 3 inch exhaust
Aftermarket up/down pipe

Power kicks in strongly at 4000rpm but get very little enjoyment below that.
Is it worth reversing the manifold so i need less intercooler piping, or even go back to a high performance top mount cooler instead of the huge FMIC im running.
Im taking it down to get tuned again tomorrow and a dyno run, hoping to enable the following:
Racerom features:
Down shift blip
Flat foot shifting
Anti-lag & Rotational idle if the ECUTEK LETS ME DO IT.

Does anyone recommend the next stage of mods. I want it fast for the drags/roll racing. Eventually going to work on suspension mods but want a touch more power first.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-29-2017, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Head had lots of port and polishing done when put on also.
engine is 40km old
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-02-2017, 10:58 AM
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Looks like you have some money and work going in, why not invest in some quality gauges (wideband a/f, oil PSI, fuel PSI) so you can keep an eye on things in case something goes wrong. You have a nice build going and you wouldn't want that high HP fuel pump to die out while doing a pull and detonate.

As for FMIC vs TMIC, FMIC will net you more hp than TMIC yes, but you give up lag and response for a 20-40hp. A quality TMIC will keep this lag down (especially on a big turbo) and can make similar power with the right heat shielding and maybe a bit more with WMI (compared to just a FMIC alone). Rotating the manifold for FMIC will help with spool too, but adds more cost again.

BTW, those fat cams are what is really keeping you from making more power down low as they, by design shift the powerband to the right. Either get a different cam profile or work with what you have, though if you're using non-avcs cams in avcs heads you aren't making the power you could be to begin with!

How are you running all these parts on a stage2 map? is it a protune stage2 or an OTS?
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-02-2017, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah ive ordered a 3 piece guage replacement for where the clock sits in the bugeye, then ill fit some instrumentation.

Ive got it booked in to get a set of unequal length headers in a couple of weeks which should theoretically help free things up top end again.

"stage 2" ecutek tune. They call it a stage 2 tune but i think its just a custom map here in Australia.
Was thinking of changing the cams out, but to be honest i do enjoy top ending people in their V8's when they expect all my power to be downlow.

Had a dyno run on friday but its cracked the turbo intake hose from the cold air intake, so was running lean and only 15psi but made 240awhp as it was. Top boost hits at 4800RPM and held strong until redline.
So next step replacing the hose, and headers, then bump the boost up to 22-24psi. With the block and ARP head studs it shouldnt break my engine, and give some of these boys down at the drags abit of a scare when ti starts pulling on them top end.
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-02-2017, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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And i like the stock look
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-03-2017, 07:47 AM
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240awhp with all those mods? That's super low for the mods you have, so after you get that turbo inlet fixed I would highly recommend a protune for the mods and fuel you will be using! I hope that was with the 15PSI setup. Titter can you chime in and add some thoughts? Shouldn't this guy be seeing well over 300awhp with those mods on the 207?

Love the sleeper status, that's exactly what I'm doing with my wagon. Keep us posted, I love a good bugeye.
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-03-2017, 01:13 PM
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If he was running super lean they would have backed off on everything to keep it from blowing up. Should be seeing higher numbers than that for sure.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-03-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Tuner said they aborted the dyno run due to it running very lean, ecu had retarded the timing and wouldnt boost over 15psi hence the 240awhp figure. He said if it was running 19psi and wasnt running lean it should of hit 280 or so.

My thoughts were it should be around the 300awhp on 19psi. If i can get it running 24psi should be a great deal more fun.


I dont know what a "protune" is. Ive just taken it down to a place who deals with WRX's only and deals with the ECUTEK.

To be honest, im half tempted to ditch the ecutek and get an aftermarket ECU, such as a LINK or something similar. Im very limited in who wants to touch the ecutek over here in australia.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-08-2017, 10:55 AM
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I guess I didn't realize your turbo is about the same size as a 16g, that would explain the lower numbers (you are making close to 300 at the crank soo). Also those cams are pretty big for that smaller turbo, the effect of the large cam on a small turbo means that the huge lope will suffer in the bottom end (where the turbo is starting to spool) and flowing more than it can handle up top (above 6k RPMs). You have the bigger hotside which will help compensate for the big cams but you'll gain a crap ton more with a larger turbo/smaller cam profile.

As for an ECU, find out how comfortable Subie tuners are with Haltech, they make PnP ECUs..piggyback and standalones. Even their piggybacks have more capabilities than you could ever need on a boxer, but that makes them so great for mods down the road (like Speed Density or E85). They start around $1k but when compared to the other ECUs that can't do as much, you'll never need to upgrade it.

Open source is another good option as tuners don't need a license to use it and OS can do pretty much anything ECUtek can. Btw if you do switch your programmer (ECUtek), make sure that you get it unmarried from your factory ECU, if you don't you're stuck with a locked ECU and if you sell the ECUtek you're screwed (another reason I won't go ECUtek).

Also, how tf are you running lean with a big fuel pump and ID1000s???? That setup should be enough for 400WHP, according to my tuner a walbro 255lph/ID1000s are good for over 350WHP on pump and over 400WHP on E85 on a 20g/GT30r with 3port EBCS. Sounds like you have a fueling issue (either pump/filters/injectors), remember the bugeye has 2 filters (one under the hood), and I'd get your injectors flow tested if they're old or have ran crap fuel through them. What kind of fuel pump are you running? High HP pumps are known to be short lived, especially if they're hardwired and not linked to the ECU (which pulses the power to increase lifespan instead of 100 pumping at all times with hardwiring).
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-10-2017, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Was only running lean because of the split in the intake hose from my understanding. Im getting that fixed this weekend and will get it back on the dyno.
its a warlbro 500hp fuel pump from memory. So im guessing when the intake leak is fixed it will be fine. From my understanding the turbo uses a TF06 turbine with 7cm2 turbine housing and a 712gtp compressor wheel. which i thought was pretty big.

Ill look into a haltech unit. finding a good competant tuner over here in Aus is hard work, well one that will touch ecutek.

Once i get it back on the dyno ill post some results, gauges should go in this long weekend also so ive got some pretty lights to look at
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post #11 of 12 Old 05-11-2017, 07:52 PM
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protune is what we call a tune by a professional on a load dyno over here in north america. same thing you call a tune over there.

you should be around 325whp on your 98ron fuel. you could top 300kw/400whp if you switch to E85. you definitely need to fix that lean issue before you detonate your engine in half.

haltech is great. they have plug and play ecu's for the EJ207. best on the market in my opinion http://www.haltech.com/product/plati...es/subaru-wrx/

if you need a tune, i can recommend these places but not sure if they tun on ECU Tek. honestly it might be worth your efforts to cut your losses and switch ecu's. everyone i know personally has hated the ECU Tek system and got rid of it shortly after purchase.

Haltech Headquarters - Wetherill Park, NSW
Just Engine Management - Ingleburn, NSW
Castle Hill Performance - Castle Hill, NSW
Ichiban Imports - Ingleburn, NSW
AM Auto - Noosaville, QLD
WillAll Racing - Gillman, South Australia

there are probably hundreds more, but if these guys have made an impact on me way over here in canada, they must be doing something right.

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post #12 of 12 Old 05-17-2017, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Cheers for the info on the tuners, im in Western Australia (other side of Aus).

So got a silicone intake installed.
Took it back to the tuner and got a full retune.
Only running 19psi as i need a 3 port boost solenoid to keep it steady after 19psi.
It ran exactly 325.7AWHP on 19psi
Nice estimation Titter but you were .7 out lol

Still all top end, third gear is insane, and he said fourth would be the best, but ill get it down to a track before i attempt anything like that.

Just had front and rear Whiteline strut braces arrive, so will fit those on the weekend see if it helps with this damn understeer
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