vote on turbo - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 09-04-2003, 07:58 AM
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I have heard a lot of good stuff about Forced Performance, but none of the "g" turbos listed on their site have the correct flanges. At least, not that I can see.
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#17 Old 09-05-2003, 05:12 PM
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my favorite would have to be the sr 40 from aps
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#18 Old 09-06-2003, 10:48 PM
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why is the sr40 your favorite i dont know anything about that turbo give me some info!
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#19 Old 09-06-2003, 11:46 PM
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All this turbo discussion...

Whoever posted this in the first place, i gorget now...

Hope your sure planning o speding some serious dough... you want to ru 300 WHP... That will require more tha just a serious turbo...

I"m worried about what TXS Stage 4 is gonna do to the stock drivetrain. So you should expect to upgrade bushings, motor mounts, blah blah blah, all the little things ofr that kind of power. Maybe even some real big things too... like engine internals... ??? Some will tell you the stock REX internals are not made for stage 4 power (around 270 WHP), let alone 300WHP...

Anyways, FC-- you mention the VF34 a better trubo to have ### last longer and spool faster... I'm tending to disagree... Yes it is ball bearing, but that is the only differnece from the VF30. I've spoken at length with TXS, and they've tested both the VF30 and VF34 o the dyno, claiming to show almost no difference in mid or top end performance. And as for lasting longer, its just not worth it in my opinoin. Unless it lasts a whole lot longer. the price difference is minimum $200. That's about 25% of the cost of a new VF30. And the VF30 is a quality turbo that will last long time. Matter of fact, all that you can truly say about the VF34 lasting longer is incorrect. The only thing in a VF34 that will ast longer is the device that the shft spins on. The blades are idetical to VF30 and will wear exactly as fast. Therefore, when you're still running your VF34 with long time used and worn blades (the slightest dust or water molecules can damage the compressor blades) I will have already saved enough $$ to buy another brand new VF30, and started out with $200 more in my pocket to do such. The VF34 is just not worth another $200 just for ball bearings, arguably minimal spool difference, and life of turbo difference that is yet to be proven (both fairly new turbos)...

just my .02 psi.

Same for Perrin Fuel rails, don't need 'em unless your running a setup that hits something like the 25 psi mark and you run 750 cc injectors. And guess what, if you're at that point, you sure are not running stock internals for long (or you're rebuilding every other weekend).

PHil at TXS will tell you about his 454 WHP REX (on race gas) that runs stock rails, with no probs to A/F ratio, cylinder 3, or EGT's. Just requires correct tuning with UTEC, and appropriate heat protection from the turbo and exhaust pipes.

good luck on your search for 300 WHP, you may need it. (not that you won't find it, just that you may find some trials along the way, or once you get there)...
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#20 Old 09-06-2003, 11:59 PM
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One other bit i'd like to add...

Consider where in your curve you make theat 300 WHP also...

Because if you don't access all that HP until late in your curve, and i run a smaller yet strong turbo and generate a healthy portion of the HP that you can create with your massive turbo, but not quite as much as yours, but i generate my max much sooner than you do in the relative curve, , then you will surely be in trouble unless we are running long distance straitghtaways... i.e. 1/2 miles or better.
Or unless you have a supercar drivetrain and clutch and launch the car from 4,500 rpm and keep it above that point throughout.

A FMIC intercooler will only compound this lag effect. (much longer distance for the air to travel and more volume of air to be compressed, therfore longer to compress it. ONe must keep in mind, in a REX you only have intake air, convert it to hot gas and generate rpms in your turbine... Bigger you go, the longer it will take before that boost is fully available... and the more it will lage you down for daily driving. You'll have to jam a lots of rpms out of your car in order to make good power and you will therefore tax the engine sooner and faster. And the more you beat on her, the more you must "say you're sorry" and buy her flowers and spend "quality time" with her to get her runing right again. Those "flowers" can get real expnesive after awhile. Just be prepared for it.
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#21 Old 09-07-2003, 05:32 PM
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Is the PE1818 direct bolt on and streetable? sounds like a sweet turbo anyone know when it reaches full boost?
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#22 Old 09-07-2003, 06:19 PM
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good points...but i am runnign the 22 for a few months, then a PE1850, or larger, after that. i am runnignt eh rails because 1. i am running a larger injector on it soon, and went ahead and did it while apart, 2. it makes life SOOO much easier to change the injectors now, since the rails are flexible. 3. Garret at Worldone gave me a HELLA good deal on them. i know you can change the injectors withour pullin the intake, and its not that bad to do, after the damn green brackets are gone and the stock fuel distribution is not the best, in my opinion. yes, there have been tests done, and i have seen the tests go either way. i chose to go with them, and that is just me.

The VF22 does spool in slower then the 30, BUT the more airflow at higer top end speeds is worth it to me, i didnt make this car for running the 1520, i am making it for high power, at the slight cost of lag. Yes, teh VF30, or 34 are a more streetable turbo, but i am a power freak.

and, IMO, the 34 is a better turbo. yes, everything internally is the same, except for the bearing. i have never had good luck with sleeve type bearings, and to me, the additional cost in the onset, compared to longer service life, is worth it. but thats just me....
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#23 Old 09-07-2003, 06:57 PM
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I heard the 18g/pe1820 are good streetable turbos any inputs?
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#24 Old 09-11-2003, 12:57 AM
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i also agree with the IHI vf30..little more tuning involved though..but still worth it
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#25 Old 09-11-2003, 12:59 AM
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on the subject of turbos...what is the max psi limit for my03+
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