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Vf22 ???

8K views 55 replies 12 participants last post by  REXronald 
#1 ·
well, pulled my intake manifold and tumble valve housing this weekend, the one tumble valve has been broken for some time now and i discovered it was near 90% closed all this time.... (that's some serious airflow restriction in 2 out of 4 of the intake pathways...one TGV motor drives two butterfly valves... and the car still seemed fast all this time)... anyways... i pulled the butterfly flaps and they are happily gone forever now.......

also... buttloads of electrical connectors and hoses to be pulled, what a PIA it was.... (and i haven't put it all back together yet, uhoh... waiting for gaskets and PERRIN silicone intake pipe)

to get to the VF22 point... i checked my VF30 and it has enough shaft play to allow the blade to just slightly catch the housing as I spin it with my bare hand....... in other words... its seen better days, and the worst part is, it's only got about 5k miles on it... that sucks....

but i'm going to upgrade the turbo soon, not sure what to get, figuring i'll get the VF22... what kind of WHP can i expect from it with a good tune... (stage 4 car with GTspec headers, no CATS, front mount PERRIN, UTEC used for engine mngmt) and what 1/4 time can be run with this turbo, assuming the drivetrain and clutch held up and a good driver was at the wheel... :rolleyes: ?

Can a PE1818 or an SR30, maybe SR40 make more HP than the VF22 or be better turbo to get... I don't get it... the PE's are real expensive, the SR's are rich-person expensive, and the VF22 is $600 shipped from Gruppe-S.... i don't see the point in getting those more expensive turbos when a VF22 can make the same or more powre.... anyone care to fill me in???

thanks.
 
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#27 ·
eh, drop an SR20 in there, but make sure you get it before race wars....




on a serious note, that is looking to be my setup also....i have a 2.5 block sitting at my house that i got with intentions of working it for another car, but i think i will keep it, do full forged internals, and stroke the 2.5 :D


add fully worked WRX heads with shim under conversions, custom lunati cams, full sheetmetal intake with a surge setup, twin throttle bodies, no TGV's or valve timing to deal with like the STi heads, custom FMIC core with new piping, and a T61ish (havent decided yet, i am still looking at compressor maps to see what is gonna be best...) may even go with a straight T4, .51ar or something..still looking.

add a 150 shot on top of it, and CO2 on the IC core...mated to a STi 6 speed, R180 rear diff, STi hubs and brakes, LSD in all three positions....

i think that may be a decent wagon now... :D
 
#29 ·
...

are you takling about the legacy short block, my understanding was that it was closed, but i've read same exact comment elsewhere (NASIOC)... the pictures don't appear to show a closed deck (not that i would no one if i saw one), educate me if you wish, but i'm pretty sure the Cobb 2.2L is described as fully closed deck, fully forged setup, increased oil and coolant flow capacity, etc....... most of the stops, of course you could go with the Cobb race series, even more serious bullet proofing, for of course more $$$, good to 30psi so they say....... but that's way beyond my needs, of course, FC, that sounds like something you would need.... anyways....

how much should it cost me to get the stock heads reworked to hold up better? Assuming that i would only change the cams if major ECU mods were not needed.

think cobb is coming out with heads soon too... :D
.
this swap is getting more expensive by the minute... !Cry!
 
#30 ·
COBB has had heads for a while....


the picture on the website listed above is a semi closed deck. you can look around the cyl bores and see that, you see how you can see the sleeves? on a full closed deck, all you would see is the cyl bore, not a sleeve.

i work my own heads, it is nice to be able to sometimes.....:D

as for the shimunder conversion, i highly reccomend it if you are gonna see high RPM's. i am doing mine with subaru parts, basically same setup as the 04's. takes some time, but much much less thn cobbs kit.
 
#31 ·
i probably would not rev to 8000 grand

but figure if cobb revs to 8000 grand and holds 25 psi safely... then i will not be pressing the engine very hard if i rev limit it to 7250 and run no more than 19psi.... therefore hope it would hold up very well in the long run............

yeah, nice that you have the means and know how to work your engines, i have limited means and limited know how... i'm happy just to be able to pull off some heads (pay to have them worked) and then put them on a forged block (that again, i paid for) and put it all back into my car..... even that is going to be a bit of work for me, and a high cost, of course worth it to me in the long run as i lack the means and knowhow to build an engine. (does it count if a can rework a 2 cycle 0.21 nitro methane engine... in my radio controlled T-MAXX truck, hehe)... probably not eh?
 
#33 ·
fc735 said:
eh, drop an SR20 in there, but make sure you get it before race wars....




on a serious note, that is looking to be my setup also....i have a 2.5 block sitting at my house that i got with intentions of working it for another car, but i think i will keep it, do full forged internals, and stroke the 2.5 :D


add fully worked WRX heads with shim under conversions, custom lunati cams, full sheetmetal intake with a surge setup, twin throttle bodies, no TGV's or valve timing to deal with like the STi heads, custom FMIC core with new piping, and a T61ish (havent decided yet, i am still looking at compressor maps to see what is gonna be best...) may even go with a straight T4, .51ar or something..still looking.

add a 150 shot on top of it, and CO2 on the IC core...mated to a STi 6 speed, R180 rear diff, STi hubs and brakes, LSD in all three positions....

i think that may be a decent wagon now... :D
Jesus man! Business must be good !Thumbs Up
 
#34 · (Edited)
fc735 said:
eh, drop an SR20 in there, but make sure you get it before race wars....




on a serious note, that is looking to be my setup also....i have a 2.5 block sitting at my house that i got with intentions of working it for another car, but i think i will keep it, do full forged internals, and stroke the 2.5 :D


add fully worked WRX heads with shim under conversions, custom lunati cams, full sheetmetal intake with a surge setup, twin throttle bodies, no TGV's or valve timing to deal with like the STi heads, custom FMIC core with new piping, and a T61ish (havent decided yet, i am still looking at compressor maps to see what is gonna be best...) may even go with a straight T4, .51ar or something..still looking.

add a 150 shot on top of it, and CO2 on the IC core...mated to a STi 6 speed, R180 rear diff, STi hubs and brakes, LSD in all three positions....

i think that may be a decent wagon now... :D
Then sell it....

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#38 ·
Hi Horse?

Cosmo said:
.21 in a T-Maxx? Wimp. I had a twin .26 for a while. Now working on a twin .21 HPI Savage....


Do you ever get tired of being on a high horse Cos? i gave up work on the T-maxx for the WRX... besides, if you've ever heard of MonsterMaxx Inc, you'd be well aware that your twin .26 is no contest for a race bred monster maxx setup with a .21 engine... your twin .26's do nothing but throw off the balance and add worthless wait, albeit a rediculous monster truck setup (the 26's that is), i was out for shear jumping and racing ability.... 8 port Ofna .21 does the trick just fine, with more HP than the thing could ever need.

(jeez, and my wife thinks i go overboard on toys... if she only had the slightest clue about Cos and FC... and my buddy with the Supra)... i pale desparately in comparison... not to worry, i will only lose sleep on this subject to her bickering... "not another part for your car, Ronald" (imagine a very whiny tone with that quote, hehe)
 
#41 ·
same could be said to you

damn, selttle down yourself,

for what its worth....


Sorry if you can't take a joke either. I realized your comment read in two different manners...

first i read it as you were simply bragging about your twin and belittling my baby .21 .... then i anticipated you were joking or poking fun....

either way, aren't you getting a liitle worked up yourself? don't call the kettle black if you're going pot up in the same post....

but to each his own, if you wish never to comment again, that's your business... i did not mean to offend, if that's the case, my apologies. !Cry!
 
#42 ·
I'll say this, and then I'll be done....

I was joking, so if I offended you, I apologize. However, since we are on the subject, I made the initial comment because everyone and their brother has a big block T-Maxx. That's why I built what I did. I was going to go with two racing motors, but I couldn't find a way to start them (no pull starter) so I went with the pull-start .26. So, if you like it, that's fine. In fact, maybe I should paint a body for you. That is what I do for a living, after all....

www.cosmo-graphics.com

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#43 ·
that's cool

no offense taken... i was just grossly jealous of your post.... (who the hell wouldn't want two bada$$ .26's pushing a tmaxx).... i'd toyed with the idea of twin 21's, had the deal all worked/planned out, and it never happened... (monetary and parts availability issues at the time)... i took no offense to your comment, sorry i overstepped my bounds and accused of high-horsing (i would actually like to look at pics of that setup if you have them, i bet its real cool)... and had no idea Cos Graphics was painting rc car bodies.... the graphics look cool... you should do some wild graphics on you Rex.

anyways, sorry no hard feelings i hope.... props to you for building a rediculous tmaxx... (what did you use for the drive line, must have all needed to be upgraded to Ti or hardened steel, including the tranny i assume?)
 
#44 ·
I don't have it any more. I took the engines off and traded it for the Savage I have now, which so far is stock. But, I used a Robinson steel spur gear, and all metal transmission gears (forward only, of course). I also used a Robinson aluminum transmission case, but that was just for "bling". I really only mess with them during the winter. Summer is on-road season, so I have my hands full with them.

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#45 ·
the car is final better now...

looks like i can put off the new block purchase.... i finally got the car put back together with the TGV's out and re-did the compression test, warm... (what a PITA when the engine block/manifold is hot)...

compression is much better now, i would not recommend trusting any cold compression figures... cold did not give me accurate figures/readings...

warm engine:
135
140
135---------- was 120 reading when cold
130---------- was 90 reading when cold ???

much better results i would suggest, while not perfect, you won't hear any complaints from me.... also, with the TGV's out, my knock problem seems to be non-existent, i have not logged 1 knock since... and boost is way up from where it was at before, even after turning in the ABC to about 6 turns open....

before with the stuck TGV (it was stuck near completely closed on the passsenger side cylinders)... knock like crazy at around 17psi, 12 turns open on ABC.... run crappy and felt sluggish, (not slow, but sluggish considering you expect 350HP from a stge 4 car)....... first real speed run after some general foo-foo driving around to warm her back up after being down for 2 weeks... pegged my boost gauge (reads to 20psi) in 4th gear.... logged 19.8 psi on the UTEC no knocks, driving the car hard on the highway.... (where it knocked the worst before)....

not sure if it was the TGV's or a boost leak in the couplers or what, but it sure seems fixed now, i put it all back together with T-bolts holding the couplers (other ones were cheap junky clamps) and its definately faster and more responsive, my friend with the supra is worried again that i will keep up with him (at least to 110mph, and says it feels like at least 25-30 more HP gain from before...

thank gosh, i wasn't looking forward to a block swap.... not sure i had it in me for this year... maybe in a couple yrs though.... i would like a stroked block some day.

thanks for the help and info on compression and leak down testing, i will skip the leak down for now......
 
#46 ·
glad to hear everything is working correctly and the numbers are good! now get out there and do some damage! (feel free to use your imagination... transmission, clutch, ring and pinion, ect) I personally went for the "transmission and clutch carnage value pack" seriously though, glad to hear everything is running great!!!
 
#48 ·
yep,

i'll be at the Commons tomorrow for sure... it will be first time back in 2 weeks... (and the prettiest my engine bay has ever looked)... its finally all coming together, now a AZ said (or opposite of what he said), i gotta make sure i don't blow the tranny or clutch... because this is really the best and hardest my car has ever been running, i may take the boost back off to 18 psi max, just to save on the drivetrain/engine...

but not worry, i'll give ya at least one 20psi mad run.....


got the turbo timer in also... same as you have DCII with boost gauge... i like it alot, install was easier than blowing $500 in the damn jewelry store with my wife the other day.... jeez she's gotta layoff a bit.... i just freaking married her a year ago... and its already going something like this...

"well ronald, you got the bonus $$$ to spend on your car, so where's my shit?" so much for that new clutch and flywheel........damn
 
#50 ·
Um, lemma think.......

uh, yeah, good call there..............

hold yourself to that...

you'll thank me later.

Now she's all over me about a new house (of course bigger and more expensive)... and we just bought this damn house 1.5yrs ago... and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. We don't even go in two of the rooms in the house... its plenty big enough for two people.... damn it... !Cry!
 
#51 ·
REXronald said:
what i think i may do is go with the Cobb tuner series 2.2L closed deck with all forged internals... will hold up to 25 psi, and since i only hope to run at 19-20 psi (safely) someday, that will be more than adequate for my needs, and it is stock fitment to the WRX heads... (of course i don't yet know if its my block or my heads that are causing the compression problem)... but nonetheless, the Cobb looks like a pretty good setup for the $$$.

what do you think? $3200 for the 2.2L, good up to 8000rpm.
You can be damned sure that I'd do that set up anyday! :D

Blue
 
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