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V8 Spec C EJ207 swap to 4EAT

35K views 111 replies 13 participants last post by  titter 
#1 · (Edited)
so i went ahead a pulled the trigger and got my ej207. i went with a v8 spec c instead of a v7 so i decided to make a new thread to avoid search confusion. i should also add that this will not include any how-to diy's. there are plenty of those out on the interweb. this will mostly cover parts needed, and tuning to help others properly run these motors on an automatic. and any other things that may pertain to my build.

i am going to try to document this as best i can as a 207 to an automatic is not something done every day and considered taboo by some. this car is being set up for drags over tracking so the automatic is the way to go. of course, the transmission will need some beefing up down the line, but for the time being it will hold the stock motor just fine.

v8 spec c


from an 04


okada coil packs


vf36


this will be a long process and probably wont be completed untill the spring. it will be a few weeks for me to prep the motor before it heads to the shop.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
yes ecu came with it. got a jdm bpv for the after market tmic, as well as the jdm sti bcs. yes there is no cruise control on the motor. you can tell by only 1 cable coming off the throttle body. the other hole is where the cruise cable goes. it will be deleted from the car along with the a/c. (even tho there is a compressor, i am removing it for various reasons) cruise control i hate with a passion. it disconnects me from the car and make me feel like the steering wheel is a game controller and im not really in a car at all. the a/c is going because... well... canada! and also the a/c lines are in the way of a bumch of stuf.

2004 Sti Spec C (internet source) EJ207 Info - NASIOC
Max. Power 205.8 kw / 276 bhp @ 6400 rpm
Max torque 412 nm / 303.9 ft lbs @ 4400 rpm

thats the "advertized" power numbers from the factory. JDM motors around that time were rumored to be highly underrated numbers from factory spec. they pretty much just lied about it. numbers are usually higher. some put down just over 300whp on the stock motor on a fresh swap. at least according to posted dyno charts. whether they are accurate is a different story. it is the internet after all.

the work is being done by Tonik Motorsports http://www.tonikmotorsports.com/
 
#5 · (Edited)



the turbo is a VF36. its ball bearing turbo. here is the turbine housing. pretty clean in there. checked the shaft with a neodymium magnet to verify it is infact titanium aluminide

timimg belt and iridium cold plugs are being done while the motor is out.

still debating exhaust options. Tomei is redesigning their twinscroll down pipe and i dont know if i can wait untill then. but at the moment it is discontinued. so unless i get some custom work done (which i would like to avoid being rather costly) my options are either Lachute or Tomioka... and im leaning towards Tomioka.

perrin motor mounts and pitch stop are going in.

if the shop can fix the turbo inlet i can avoid buying an intake. the nipple which connects to the boost control solenoid broke off during transit, but the rest of the inlet is quite new and shiny. no crap inside either. so if we can sonic weld or jb weld a new nipple on the inlet, i will stick with that. otherwise, if i have to buy a new turbo inlet, im going to do the full intake.

the oil cooler will be deleted because i only have the thermostatic adapter and i did not receive the "radiator" part of the oil cooler and dont feel like sourcing one. this car is a DD and the oil cooler isnt really needed since im already in a cold climate. apparently overcooling the oil has happened to people.
 
#7 ·
#11 ·


here is the fitting that is broken on the inlet. its the one that goes to the boost solenoid. simple fix. came off pretty clean. could probably thread and teflon tape a fitting. but will go with a stronger, more long lasting option.

transit damage happens on almost all imported long blocks. this so far being the only one, i consider myself fortunate.
 
#14 · (Edited)
this is what is on my motor. apparently its super rare and has a thermo built in?


this is what i dont have.


i can modify the above to fit AN and then use any cooler core (bottom left, example pics, not my car)


nonetheless, it still may be deleted


thanks for the bellmouth link @psinuse i will consider it. will depends on cost, but i have zero welding skills so a shop would be doing that.
 
#15 ·
If you go with the Perrin inlet PLEASE pay attention to it as mine SHRUNK and would slip off of the turbo no matter how much I tightened the clamp. My tuner had this happen to multiple customers as well. I am not saying the same will happen to you. Just a word of caution... because you might not find out until its too late...
 
#16 ·
thanks man! these are things i like to know :) any known cause? is it too much heat or something?

the jdm spec c inlet is already bigger than normal. the internal diameter is the same as most silicon inlets with 2.4" turbo connection. i really dont want to have to do my turbo inlet untill i upgrade the turbo a ways down the road as i will be going 3".
 
#17 ·
Yes I believe my tuner pointed the issue to the heat causing it to shrink over time. Again I know Perrin makes quality products. I have their BigMAF Intake on my last set-up and it was great. But the Perrin Inlet not so much.
 
#19 · (Edited)



here is an OEM timing belt kit we pieced together for the EJ207 (typed for clarity)


1) Tensioner - 13033AA042
2) Timing Belt - 13028AA240
3) Small Idler - 13073AA230
4) Toothed Idler - 13085AA080

the other 2 dont have normal subaru stickers or part #'s but the box says PU306030FRR9H above the barcode. both are identical and from the dealership. these are all parts i purchased.


new fluid & filter also going in the trans as well



proper drain and drop method. do not power flush a 14 yr old 4EAT. you will explode the insides.
 
#21 ·
yea heard plenty good things about the gates kit. but with the canadian dollar so low, ordering one was only going to be $20 less than that oem parts lol :(

what gates kit do you use?
 
#22 · (Edited)
so i found some water in my rear footwell and wondered why because noones ever in my back seat. things got a little out of hand lol trying to solve the problem...


and then i found the problem...



welcome to the canadian rust belt. thats the passenger side. drivers side is twice as bad.

Replacement Panels. Might as well go all out. no sense half-assing anything now.



if anyone is looking for panels since this is a common problem



going to get coated inside and out with Por15
 
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#23 · (Edited)
lets get away from this depressing rust.... back to the good stuff. almost all my parts have arrived!!

Prosport EVO Boost, Wideband & Oil Pressure


JDM STI Solid Steering Link, Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings, TiC Diff Bushings, Kartboy Rear Outrigger Bushings & Subframe Lockdown Bolts


STI Group N Motor Mounts, Grimmspeed 3 Port EBCS, Perrin Pitch Stop Mount



things still to come: walbro255 fuel pump, ngk colder spark plugs, and lachute twin scroll turboback
 
#26 · (Edited)




lol :)

really though... gotta stop all this power or a wall/tree will do it for me lol. and i'll still be able to use my winter 16"s :) smoking deal. came with pads/rotors AND the kartboy bracket.
 
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