up-pipe:down-pipe..? - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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up-pipe:down-pipe..?

hello again..once again you are all my teachers and i am the willing to learn student...the topic for knowledge this month is...

what is an up-pipe and a down-pipe..and i THINK they help with the air to fuel ratio...and are they otherwise known as headers?

will the instillation of these pipes void the warranty?



-eager student
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 11:51 AM
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the uppipe is the piece that connects the exhaust manifold to the turbo. the stock uppipe has a pre-catalytic converter in it, which is poopy for air flow. You cannot safely increase boost levels, nor will you be able to full maximize airflow without an uppipe. The downpipe is the piece that connects the turbo to the actual exhaust. It contains a catalytic converter as well. Here you have two options, you can replace the downpipe with a catless version, or you can buy a Highflow cat if you dont want to change your DPs out everytime you do emissions. Finally, theres a midpipe (has a cat) and you muffler that you can also replace, again to maximize airflow.

depending on how cool your dealer is depends on your warranty. i would suffice to say if you had a problem with your turbo and they saw you had an uppipe, they wouldnt keep it under warranty, but thats just speculation.
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 12:39 PM
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Get the STi up-pipe and they wont be able to tell, or you can simply gut the stock one. As for the downpipe get the MRT one, its Cali legal so you dont need to take it out, and its also the best one on the market (quickest spool time). There are other manufactureres out there that gaurentee emissions, and no CEL.

Che
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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thanks

interesting...so the pipes pretty much increase air flow...so that would mean if i got a vf30 then i would need to do these modifications...but if i upgrade to like TX stage 1 then they would already do this right?

-eager student

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 01:45 PM
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No. A TXS stage 1 is just a UTEC. Well, I shouldn't say "just" because it's a pretty big upgrade. The Stage 2 includes the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust. An uppipe is optional (but highly reccommended).

If you're going to run a VF30 (although I reccommend a VF34), you would need larger injectors, a better fuel pump, and a better intercooler too. Look at TurboXS's Stage 4 kit, which is basically what I just described.
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 05:19 PM
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Will putting a after market up and down pipe on your car make your check engine light come on ?
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 05:56 PM
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Downpipe might, up pipe less of a chance. Reset the ECU and it will go away.

Che
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 08:17 PM
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I installed a turbo back exhaust and uppipe at the same time, and the uppipe came with a resistor for the sensor so that it wouldn't come on and I ran without a CEL for a few weeks and then one day on my way to work it popped on. I pulled the code and it was a P0420 Cat inefficiency, so I cleared it and have been CEL free for about 3 weeks now.

256 WHP on Mustang dyno that measures Stockers at 167.
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-30-2003, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lobsterhat
I installed a turbo back exhaust and uppipe at the same time, and the uppipe came with a resistor for the sensor so that it wouldn't come on and I ran without a CEL for a few weeks and then one day on my way to work it popped on. I pulled the code and it was a P0420 Cat inefficiency, so I cleared it and have been CEL free for about 3 weeks now.
who is the manufacturer of the parts you installed

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post #10 of 13 Old 10-01-2003, 09:21 AM
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Turbo XS TBE, and Perrin Uppipe.

256 WHP on Mustang dyno that measures Stockers at 167.
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-01-2003, 03:14 PM
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how do you reset the ecu?
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-01-2003, 03:22 PM
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disconnet the negative battery cable for about 5 minutes, then reconnect
and drive it like you stole it...your ECU will learn the new curves....not the most efficient way, but itll do the job
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-01-2003, 10:16 PM
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By removing the 2nd and main cat, you will be throwing a cat inefficiency cel. You don't want to be resetting your ECU evertime you throw this cel (for one unless you pull the code you won't know for certain) as you will likely be robbing your engine of performance each time you do. The ECU has an advanced multiplier that effects ignition timing, when very unhappy is at 0, is reset to 8 and very happy at 16. You want the advanced multiplier high- resestting takes you have way back- the wrong direction.

Thus it behooves you to find a permanent fix- either an electronic fix for the second O2 sensor- fooling the ECU into thinking everything is hunky dory by means of a resistor or through a reflash of the ECU itself (included w/ Ecutek reflash).

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