Regular Or Synthetic Oil? - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 12-21-2004, 09:11 AM
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i now have 37, and change on the car, should i go to synthetic or stick with the conventional oil. what kind of damage could occur.
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#17 Old 12-21-2004, 09:21 AM
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Oh crap, sorry, I missed the 02 wrx part. I thought it was a new car... tired this morning. One way is to get it tested and you still might not be able to find out, but to me anyways that's a pain in the butt, but maybe not to some of the other guys on here.

Chances are, even if it was synthetic, the dealer probably put conventional oil in it if they changed it... which isn't really that great for it, but whatever, it's already been done. I know it can't be a 02 with 35 miles total on it. What's the total milage?

Personally, I'd go synthetic since it's a late model and if it's in good condition, but I know several people on here would probably disagree with me.

Jon
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#18 Old 12-21-2004, 02:46 PM
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Alright, heres the 411 on all petro oils vs. Group 3 oils vs. Group 4 oils.

As people have stated before in this post, it is probably good to run your car on pure petro for a while during break in as to ensure seals, but i have not heard of problems coming from running a group 3 or 4 right off the bat. If you ever hear someone say "Oil is Oil", slap them. This is a total untruth, especially when it comes to high heat engines such as turbocharged applications. When you run sythetic, it is much better for your turbocharged engine by being able to withstand much higher heats and stress on the motor. Synthetics also take a burden off of the driver while you only have to change it every 6000-7000 instead of 2000. Also, you wont have to fill up your car with oil every week if you are a leadfoot and your turbo gobbles up that petro like fat bastard on a fresh batch of midgets. When you decide to go the synthetic route (hopefully soon) you will need to consider brands as well. Group 3 oils are only partially synthetic (tecnically not really synthetic) and i wouldnt recommend them for higher heat engines. Group 4's are fully synthetic, such as Royal Purple, Mobil 1, and Redline. These oils provide the longest lasting protection and their additives last much longer than lower quality oils. I have had good experiences with all of these oils and i would say that all of them would be good oils to use. Another idea is whether to go 5W-30 or 10W-30. If you live in a place where the climate is consistently warm (such as california or such) do 10W even if your manufacturer says to use 5W. They tell you to use 5W because it will work in high heat as well as not get too thick in colder weather. But, if you live in a place where it can get colder, i would recommend 5W.

But, that is just my two cents.

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#19 Old 12-22-2004, 02:14 PM
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Question

I've got Mobile1 synth in my car... I was wondering if a oil catch can does the same thing for synth as for conventional and if its worth the price to throw under the hood.
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#20 Old 12-22-2004, 02:29 PM
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A catch can doesn't really do much. The idea works, but your the flow is way to fast and the space is way to small to work effectively in my opinion. I can't see it hurting to have one and they're really not that expensive. Don' be fooled by expensive ones, most are the same, but dressed up to look prettier than others. But to argue the otherside, they don't fuction very well (maybe if your car was heavily moddified) and not really that nessary. I think your $ could be used better else where unless you just like it as a decorative piece. It should work with synthetic oil just like conventional oil. You could even argue it's an emissions violation since the oil and hydrocarbons that was supposed to burned are in your can. They all give off vapor.

Keep in mind I have never installed one, but I have heard people say they don't get that much build up in the cans either if they ever do. Anyone here actually get a good deal of gunk in their catch cans?

Jon
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#21 Old 12-22-2004, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TruBluWRX
When you decide to go the synthetic route (hopefully soon) you will need to consider brands as well. Group 3 oils are only partially synthetic (tecnically not really synthetic) and i wouldnt recommend them for higher heat engines. Group 4's are fully synthetic, such as Royal Purple, Mobil 1, and Redline. These oils provide the longest lasting protection and their additives last much longer than lower quality oils.

Do you concur with Cosmo that after 10k is too late to make the change?
You don't recommend Group 3 (blends) for high heat engines, but are they better than conventional for turbo cars, or should I stick with conventional with regular changes???
Also, is the timeframe for change over from conventional to synthetic true for tranny and differential fluid as well? Same potential problems(leaks)?

PS-Still looking for a good tuner in Tri-State Area (NY/NJ/CT), any recommendations?
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#22 Old 12-22-2004, 07:15 PM
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singincanary i sent you a pm about some tuners in nj.. if you havent checked already
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#23 Old 12-22-2004, 11:30 PM
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In response to Vew,

Ok...

first of all, i dont think it is too late to change over after 10,000 miles. I think it is still just as effective and helpful to make the switch at that point. When you change though, remember that you cant ever go back as it may cause damage to your engine (why would you want to switch back though?) Also, yes, group 3 oils (partially syntho) are better than traditional dino petros.

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#24 Old 12-23-2004, 09:49 AM
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I changed my dad's 03 VW Jetta VR6 to synthetic and what does he do on the next oil change? Put conventional oil in it... Great dad, great.

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae
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#25 Old 12-24-2004, 05:49 PM
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i thought that i had posted this on here, but i guess i didn't.

here's my oil analysis on my last oil change and have been using it since 3000 miles.

btw, i have a VF30, have about 10 1/4mile runs and a few +120mph runs on this fill.
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#26 Old 12-28-2004, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vew
Oh crap, sorry, I missed the 02 wrx part. I thought it was a new car... tired this morning. One way is to get it tested and you still might not be able to find out, but to me anyways that's a pain in the butt, but maybe not to some of the other guys on here.

Chances are, even if it was synthetic, the dealer probably put conventional oil in it if they changed it... which isn't really that great for it, but whatever, it's already been done. I know it can't be a 02 with 35 miles total on it. What's the total milage?

Personally, I'd go synthetic since it's a late model and if it's in good condition, but I know several people on here would probably disagree with me.



i know have about 38000 on the car. i drive alot, it's in good condition, this is my first turbo car so i am weary about any changes done. i think i have conventional in but will changing over cause any damage
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#27 Old 12-29-2004, 08:39 AM
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It could very well... Lets put it straight.

If the person had already used synthetic and the dealer put in conventional oil, that already could mess it up. The bearings would have already been saturated with synthetic and the mix of conventional oil will either resist mixing or break down (synthetic breaks down conventional in this theory) depending on what theory you prefer. Either way, the result is the same and the damage could or could not have been done. The damage would be overstressed bearings since they don't get the proper lubercation. I don't see it as a huge deal as long as you stick with the product you want to use. Don't change back and forth!! The bearings will eventually be saturated in the oil you use, even if it takes 3k more miles and another oil change.

On the other hand, if the car's been 100% conventional, then the risks are leakage. Synthetic not only is a lot thinner (molecule wise) than conventional oil, it also is great at breaking down sludge in your engine. However... if damage has been done to oil rings.. then synthetic could slip past and start leaking. On an even worse case, that sludge sometimes keeps everything from leaking in the engine. Imagine filling a bike tire up with fixaflat, and poking tiny holes everywhere with a needle. Sure, it won't leak, and if it does, you probably won't notice, but then imagine adding something into the tire that cleans up that gunk fixaflat has in it... ya, oh crap is right. Synthetic oil acts as a decent gunk remover.

Don't take what I've wrote 100% to heart. I just read a lot and most of my information comes from the Internet and car-enthused friends, so I could be inaccurate in some respects if not all. But, I also come up with my own conclusions on what I think would happen. My credibility only relies on that I'm a student engineer and I'm a co-op at Toyota at one of their automatic transmissions and engine plants.

Jon
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RIP Colin McRae
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#28 Old 02-09-2005, 06:49 PM
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WOW!!! :eek: didn't think synthetic oil would make that much of a difference. anyways, i purchased a 02 wrx back in nov of 04 with 44k on it, and i didn't think twice about putting mobil 1 oil in it. did i mess up anything? it has been 3k miles later and i THINK i notice the oil level being pretty low, if i am reading it correctly, are you suppose to read with the notch facing toward the engine, right? from what i can tell, the level looks to be a notch or two above the low level indicator.
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#29 Old 02-10-2005, 06:16 PM
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wrx's take 5 quarts or at least the 04-05's. it should be at the top notch on a flat surface.
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#30 Old 02-11-2005, 12:34 AM
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4.8 US Quarts

Jon
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