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Radiator cracked!!

17K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  boo-key 
#1 ·
My radiator cracked! (leading edge, top tank) I won't have the money to fix it right for 3 weeks. Is there a quick fix that will hold me over until then?

Like some potion I can dump into the radiator that wont hurt my water pump or anything else?

Or maybe some JB-weld?
 
#2 ·
There are a few radiator stop leak products that work pretty good but none that I would trust for more than a hundred miles. Even in an emergency I would stop whenever its safe and get it taken care of the right way. As far as pressure and heat handling is concerned jb weld should work but I would drive with one eye on your temp level. I would also run more heavy fluid than water just so you don't build up the same steam levels.

Again I don't recommend it but for a limp along solution in weld should be OK.
 
#6 · (Edited)
It's the plastic alright. The crack is easy to spot and get at.

I did some prioritizing. Replace stolen phone or replace cracked radiator. Radiator wins. Phone will have to wait. I still have a land line.

Looks like I'll only need to go 600mi on the JB-Weld fix. I just hope it holds. I caught the leak VERY early. System lost 1/2 gal.

I think I'm going with this;Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator Manual Transmission Subaru WRX / STI 2002-2007 MMRAD-WRX-01 at RallySportDirect.com

Is this a good one?
 
#7 ·
When my radiator went a few years ago I picked up a CX racing aluminum radiator and it still holding strong.
Don't fall for slim fans upgrade just stick with your stock fans.
That seems to be the common place for the OEM radiator to fail at because that's where mine failed as well before the upgrade.
You might wanna grab up a pair of Samco rad. hoses while you have everything out to kill two birds without stone. :)
 
#8 ·
Are the Samco hoses worth it? They have an extra layer of silicone but they don't come with hose clamps. I have Samco intake and intercooler hoses.It would match nicely.

Mishimoto hoses have 2 ply silicone and includes clamps for $30 cheaper. What should I do? Should I do a thermostat too? Where is it?

A new development; GF saw me JB-welding my rad and offered to forgo saving for a new clutch for her 3000GT to get my rad A.S.A.P.:x WA-TA-GAL!!!:x I kin slap that sucker in next weekend! I'll only have ta' go 300mi on the JB-weld.:D
 
#12 ·
Mishi is junk. Most of their products are riddled with problems. Their radiator caps leak, their welds suck (spot leaks), and the train plug is known to dry rot quickly and suddenly fail. Not to mention, on top of quality issues, there is a thread on IWSTIs that shows that Mishimoto aluminum radiators , at least on GRs, results in higher coolant temps than the stock radiator.

Koyo makes a good, inexpensive aluminum radiator, though honestly you can get an OEM plastick Koyo replacement for about $180. The stock one lasted you this long. Will you still have this car in another 12 years when it fails again?
 
#13 ·
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#16 ·
The JB-weld didn't hold. It got me to work and back but the crack opened back up. I guess I didn't lay it on thick enough. I prepped it and added another layer. Tomorrow without driving it I'll do it again. Looks like I'll be driving the Mitsy GT to work bad clutch and all. If I can just get to Saturday I'll be golden.
 
#18 ·
Well, the JB-Weld idea isn't working at all!!! It's not like it's not sticking. It's more like it's just not strong enough. The crack opens up right in the middle of it. For the trip back home from work I just pack it off with paper towels. Believe it or not this actually works pretty well. I'm losing very little fluid and it hasn't overheated even once through this whole ordeal. I think I can use this method until Saturday.

My new radiator arrived today!!! It looks SWEET:D Why not just put it in now and be done with it? I know this may sound weird but I want to enjoy it. Saturday is supposed to be a glorious day!! Sunny and 76deg:) The last time I replaced a rad I was 16yrs old It was a zillion deg below zero. I froze a wrench to my hand. I was putting a rad from a Vista Cruiser in my Pontiac Nothing fit right,It was a total nightmare! This Saturday I get redemption!!! I may even make it a bar-b-Que/put in a radiator day.;)
 
#19 ·
Make sure you read a write up or two so you have everything you need before you start and you don't have to run out and pick up some metric bolts to attach the stock plastic fans to your fresh new radiator like I did - the self-tapping stock screws/bolts work just fine in the stock plastic radiator, but they're not so friendly with the aftermarket aluminum radiator
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the heads-up. I'll look for some write ups. any suggestions? Are you talking about the 6 screws across the top? If so Koyorad included 6 screws,washers and lock washers. Also blind nuts on the bottom mounts.
 
#21 ·
Yeah, those are probably the ones. My Koyo radiator didn't come with any hardware and I found out the hard way that I couldn't reuse the stock self-tapping screws. It wasn't really a big deal, just more of a nuisance because I didn't prepare and wasn't expecting it, so I had to make a quick trip to Home Depot half way through. Everything else should be pretty much self-explanatory and installation should be the reverse of your deconstruction. I just wanted to give you a friendly heads up, but it sounds like you're good to go.

Also, it doesn't sound weird that you want to enjoy the install - I felt the same way when I did mine :)
 
#23 ·
It's In!!! The install went very smooth. I Enjoyed it very much. I had a T-bone,my science officer had a few burgers and my GF had an Italian marinaded chicken breast. Oh. and the radiator went in too.

The Samco hoses went on without trimming at all.

<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/fidrat24/media/IMG_2572_zps2ed901e9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag309/fidrat24/IMG_2572_zps2ed901e9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2572_zps2ed901e9.jpg"/></a>


The only trouble I had was a C-shaped tab I had to trim off the bottom. It was hitting the frame and wouldn't let the pegs seat in the rubber mounts. What was that tab for anyway?

<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/fidrat24/media/IMG_2581_zpsadfca053.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag309/fidrat24/IMG_2581_zpsadfca053.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2581_zpsadfca053.jpg"/></a>

Upon further inspection maybe I should have trimmed the 2 brackets with the blind nuts in them too. What do you think? What are they for?

<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/fidrat24/media/IMG_2579_zpsc2392d21.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag309/fidrat24/IMG_2579_zpsc2392d21.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2579_zpsc2392d21.jpg"/></a>

I don't think they touch the frame. Do you think I should have trimmed them anyway?

I did the thermostat too.
 
#25 ·
Yup,got about an inch or so on the alternator pulley and 3/4" on the PS pulley. It fits perfectly! This was the easiest rad install I've ever done in my life! It went in like a giant cassette tape.:D Kind a looks like one too;)

<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/fidrat24/media/IMG_2563_zpsf208e78d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag309/fidrat24/IMG_2563_zpsf208e78d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2563_zpsf208e78d.jpg"/></a>
 
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