M2 manifold opinion. - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-20-2011, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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M2 manifold opinion.

I was browsing around and found M2 manifold for my 02 and was just curious if anyone has any feedback on this?
Unequal length header "not sure what that means?"
Guess its made by Megan Racing and Ive heard good and bad with Megan racing.
Any takers???

Thanks guys.

Cobb Accessport Stage 2.
JDM ej205 swap.

Hakuna Matata.

Chuck.
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-20-2011, 08:30 PM
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Don't. Ever. Cheap. Out. On. Exhaust. Manifolds.

The least expensive proven aftermarket one you should be considering retails for $799.

M2 at one point (~8 yrs ago) was a reputable shop. They went out of business ages ago and last year some Chinese knock off company assumed the name.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-20-2011, 11:54 PM
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Here's another option: I got Grimmspeed's ported/polished/ceramic coated black stock exhaust manifold w/ high flow crosspipe (also ceramic coated black) and I'm pretty happy with it. It's fairly reasonably priced after the core fee was returned and it's something you can install yourself with jackstands and a pretty basic set of tools and an O2 sensor socket. I got the double thick exhaust mani-to-uppipe gasket and fitment was spot-on.

John
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-21-2011, 08:53 AM
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Had a GT spec header on my car for years and it was expensive. Truth be told leave the stockers as is until you really have to upgrade and spend the money else where. If you really, really, really want to upgrade then get the Grimm Speed pnp stock ones.
Unequal length headers means the pipes leading from the exhaust ports to the collector are not the same length or "unequal length" in a nutshell.

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post #5 of 10 Old 06-21-2011, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies guys, I was just curious if they where any good or not.
I've read that they use to be a good company but went downhill.
I know I have a little bit before installing a new set.
I still have to install my DP but waiting on finding a decent UP first so I can do both at the same time.
Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone.

Cobb Accessport Stage 2.
JDM ej205 swap.

Hakuna Matata.

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post #6 of 10 Old 06-22-2011, 06:53 AM
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Even my buddys' GReddy was having issues at one point. And that was on a stage 2 tune.

Paul
2002 WRX Sold
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-22-2011, 04:10 PM
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Over the years I have found that all headers wind up leaking, some just faster than others and also dependent on coating, wrap, thickness of metal and things of that nature. Living in PA you will be subject to road salt and that will eat away at them faster as well...

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post #8 of 10 Old 06-22-2011, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah the salt here pretty much destroys everything it touches here.
Not to mention the salt trucks that throw salt at your car when they put it down.

Cobb Accessport Stage 2.
JDM ej205 swap.

Hakuna Matata.

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post #9 of 10 Old 06-22-2011, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AllExtinct View Post
Not to mention the salt trucks that throw salt at your car when they put it down.
That pisses me off, it's like the know it makes you mad and yet they do it anyway even when you try to avoid them...

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post #10 of 10 Old 06-22-2011, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psinuse View Post
Over the years I have found that all headers wind up leaking, some just faster than others and also dependent on coating, wrap, thickness of metal and things of that nature. Living in PA you will be subject to road salt and that will eat away at them faster as well...
The problem is the materials used. Most aftermarket manufacturers use 304 stainless steel to save money. This is one of the biggest reasons, that even name brand turbo headers have a bad reputation for cracking. For an N/A header it is not bad. The added exhaust temperature in a turbo application causes the issues. The problem with 304 is chromium precipitation. At high temperatures, like during welding, or use as a turbo header the chromium (what makes stainless steel, stainless) starts to precipitate out of the material. Over time this allows the stainless to corrode. Sometimes it pits, sometimes it causes intergranular stress corrosion cracking. Anyways 304 is not good unless your bottom line is more important than the product. SOME manufactures use THICKER 304 (like you said), which takes longer to degrade, but the problem is still there.

321 stainless is a much better material for high heat applications. It is much less prone to chromium precipitation. It's not quite as good as some of the different inconel alloys, but it's much cheaper.
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