I'd like to introduce myself - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-07-2006, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Cool I'd like to introduce myself

Andrey is my name and sleeper is my game.
I currently own stock looking '93 VW Golf 2.0Turbo (249whp/279wtq@16psi). Soon to switch over from VW to Subaru. I'll probably get '02 WRX Wagon and here's my plan for it goal is 250WHP. Tell me what you think and guide me if something is wrong.
Stage 1:
HKS Turbo Timer
HKS Turbo Timer Harness
K&N Filter
GPMoto Elbow

Stage 2:
DC Sports UpPipe
Cobb AccessPORT
Autometer Boost Gauge
Autometer A/F Gauge
Autometer Dual Gauge Pod

Stage 3:
Bosal Cat-Back
Helix DownPipe

Stage 4:
Whiteline Sway Bar 22mm Front
FHI 20mm Sway Bar Rear
GTSpec Strut Tower Bar Rear
Perrin PSRS Kit
Hotchkis Endlinks
'05 STi Springs

Stage 5:
Snow Performance Stage 2 Water Injection
Dyno Tuning

How's that?

Thanx.
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-07-2006, 10:01 PM
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You need to ask yourself this. What do you want to do with the car? Drag, AutoX, Mean street ride, etc...?

If you haven't already, you should check this out.
http://www.wrxtuners.com/tech.php

There are some things on there that aren't really needed, but if you look around the forums a bit you'll see what's good and what's not.

If you're looking to autoX then suspension is going to be your main focus over power.

You'll want to tighten it up some.

Lightweight wheels.
Sticky tires.
Coilovers.
Sways.
Endlinks.
Stiffer mounts.


If drag is your thing, then power first. Since you're only talking about 250 or so, this is what I'd tell you.

3" turbo back.
Uppipe.
Engine Management.
Gauges. EGT & Boost. An a/f gauge is useless, don't waste your money.
Wideband o2.
Dyno time.

If you're looking for a mean street ride, then just do both. Just remember though, the most important thing when it comes to your car is the driver. If you can't drive, it doesn't really matter what you buy for your car.

Another important point of interest, once you start to make some decent power, the stock 02' gearset will like you even less. If you are a clutch dumper, you will be buying new ones. They're not exactly cheap either.

My car is well, it's like 10 lbs of shit in a 5 lb bag...

<------ Click to see what I'm workin' with. ;)

Last edited by 9d2TSi; 01-08-2006 at 02:04 AM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-07-2006, 10:18 PM
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I don't think you'll get that high. Realistically, you'll be around the 200whp range. Also, if I recall, the Autometer AFR gauge is not that accurate for our needs, but I'd double check on that. Water injection isn't really gonna be benifitial until you get a turbo upgrade.

I've never heard of DC Sports Uppipe, so I can't give you any information on that. All the suspension bits are good, but won't help you hit that 250whp mark. Filter and elbow won't be a significant gain either, but will allow you to hear your turbo spool (i did the same thing though).

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-08-2006, 06:25 AM
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I know DC Sports headers are supposed to be good on honda's so I imagine their WRX UP should be good quality. I looked at GTI's before my WRX, glad I didnt buy one. I raced my buddy's GTI on friday from a rolling start and killed it.

Brent
2007 Satin White STi, 1989 Nissan Sil-Coupe, 1998 Toyota 4runner (to be built..)...
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-08-2006, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modest1
Andrey is my name and sleeper is my game.
I currently own stock looking '93 VW Golf 2.0Turbo (249whp/279wtq@16psi). Soon to switch over from VW to Subaru. I'll probably get '02 WRX Wagon and here's my plan for it goal is 250WHP.

Thanx.
Ditch the turbo timer and A/F meter(get EGT and oil pressure/temp).Gut stock up-pipe (free) and get Accessport first thing.Use the stock swaybars (20mm) but up-grade the links and bushings.Enegry Suspension makes an awsome urethane kit for the WRX's ($140) that has both F/R swaybar bushings,shifter,front control arms,trailing links and rear swaybar links.The $40 nasty pink ebay special rear/front swaybar cobo's do work and fit well suprisingly if you want to keep it cheap.Same with the H bars.Don't think you can use the STi springs since they use an inverted strut assembly ,but i could be wrong.For 250WHP on the stock turbo=ported/polished turbo,exhaust manifolds,I.C. elbows,throttlebody(all this is very D.I.Y.) and get the turbo hotside and manifolds ceramic coated.Turbo back exhaust,snorkus removal(remove the airbox gasket!) and absolutly a PROTUNE(custom Cobb AP map).

Homebrewed tuned with Opensource!
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-08-2006, 09:35 PM
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Gutting the uppipe is an unnecessry risk for less than $200. Cats contain cancerous substances, and you have every little bit out. I disagree on the swaybar thing though. The rear is only 17mm. Front is 20mm Whole reason for crazy stock understeer. The larger RSB alone will do more for your handling than the bushings not saying bushings are a bad mod of course.

Oh yeah, and springs alone will worsen your handling. As for fitment, I know STi makes lowering springs for the WRX. Because of the recent revision of SOA's warranty stuff on STi and SPT parts, if your struts wear out prematurely, it should be covered under warranty (not guranteed though), seeing your car is less than 3 years old and less than 36k miles.

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vew
Gutting the uppipe is an unnecessry risk for less than $200. Cats contain cancerous substances, and you have every little bit out. I disagree on the swaybar thing though. The rear is only 17mm. Front is 20mm Whole reason for crazy stock understeer.
I used a catridge typr resperator when i gutted the up-pipe.Sweet&Low can cause cancer and alot of other things.I don't think if your being safe its a risk.But you do have a point.As far as the sway bars 02-03's are 20mm all the way around.04-05's went to 17mm.

Homebrewed tuned with Opensource!
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 08:04 AM
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Dont forget nitro fuel, that causes cancer...oh and exhaust gasses and everything else in the world?

Brent
2007 Satin White STi, 1989 Nissan Sil-Coupe, 1998 Toyota 4runner (to be built..)...
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awd>fwd
Dont forget nitro fuel, that causes cancer...oh and exhaust gasses and everything else in the world?

Hmm you like to post allot lol Just random things coming from AWD

Chris- ▼SbiΣ Mi▼
242 AWHP / 318 TQ
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 08:34 AM
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Shhhh.....Remember I'm a post whore...think about what time that was here on the west coast...yeah.

Brent
2007 Satin White STi, 1989 Nissan Sil-Coupe, 1998 Toyota 4runner (to be built..)...
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post #11 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awd>fwd
Shhhh.....Remember I'm a post whore...think about what time that was here on the west coast...yeah.

Lol getting up for school? Or didnt go to sleep? Whats the deal your always on so late and ## a young one are you like 16?

Chris- ▼SbiΣ Mi▼
242 AWHP / 318 TQ
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 02:12 PM
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02 wagons only have a RSB size of 17mm. Here's a helpful link for anyone curious about stock sway bar sizes on most common Subarus.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=902307

FYI, concrete emitts radation too. That can also cause cancer.

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae
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post #13 of 13 Old 01-09-2006, 04:15 PM
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Like people have mentioned, you it'll be hard to get to 250whp with those mods. Add these and you may get close:

Bigger Intercooler
Port-n-Polish Turbo/Throttlebody


The story of a little boy reaching 250whp on the stock turbo
Quote:
Mods:
2004 Subaru WRX Sports Wagon
Perrin Pulley
Vishnu non-flex uppipe
TurboXS Stealthback no cat version
Prodrive axle back muffler
Borla Headers
JDM Ver. 7 STi Intercooler (with associated scoop, spray, shroud, etc)
Monster P&P & Internal P&P of stock turbo
Turbo wrap on the exhaust housing by ThermoTec
Throttle body bypass mod
Crucial Racing Thermostat
NGK Laser Platinum 1 step colder gapped to .030
Ecutek Reflash by Clark of Kingpin Performance

Test Data
Dyno: DynoJet (Stock WRXs see 160-165WHP on this particular dyno)
Temperature: 90 degrees
Humidity: 8%
Pressure: 28.85 in-Hg
Altitude: 400 meters
Gas used: 93 octane
Turbo PSI: 16-16.5 PSI

Story:
After a long time of happy Cobb Stage 2 ownership, my first dyno day showed me that going outside of Cobb's recommendations feels good on the butt dyno, but sucks on the real dyno. For this I take 100% responsibility and would still recommend their stuff to anyone as long as they aren't an idiot like I was. Previous dyno sheets for the same mods with Cobb Stage 2 were 224HP/224TQ on another DynoJet.

So I converted to EcuTek and heard some good stuff about this guy named Clark. I met up with him today and told him my goal was ~250HP. He looked at me as if I had 2 heads and the conversation dwindled to suppositions of 210-220HP. He was shocked that pull #1 with the stock ECU netted this. After that, it was all smiles for both of us. He was also surprised to see that my car experienced zero knock/pinging/detonation anywhere or anytime. He said that every Subaru does this at some point on the dyno and mine doesn't for some reason. I assume that's a good thing, as I don't know poop about tuning. :shrug:

My thanks to the wonderful folks at Arizona Dyno Chip for their dyno use, and to Clark of Kingpin Performance for his tuning.



\

Xam - 2004 WRX - Cobb Stg II - Ugly Ricer Spoiler
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