After going to the track and slipping my cluth 8 times in 5 hours i was thinking maybe a new clutch should come first. The last thing I want is to not have a car for a week or two while I wait for a clutch. My car has 36K miles on it and is stock I bought it at 34K miles so I don't know how it was treated before me. If my clutch goes out before 60K does subaru fix it for me under warranty? If i get a stronger clutch what should i get that i can abuse with stage 2 mods/power and where is the cheapest one that can handle this?
Im going through the same thing as you, just got my WRX, and was planning to add some power first, but, Im sure im going to need a new clutch and brakes first. My clutch is starting to go, its catching really late, mostly because of the way I drive Im sure.
I dont think Subaru will replace clutches because its a wear item, maybe if you buy one, they will install it? I was thinking of getting an ACT clutch so it can take some abuse. But, then I see in other posts that the beefier the clutch, the harder it is on the tranny.. is this true?
Im going through the same thing as you, just got my WRX, and was planning to add some power first, but, Im sure im going to need a new clutch and brakes first. My clutch is starting to go, its catching really late, mostly because of the way I drive Im sure.
I dont think Subaru will replace clutches because its a wear item, maybe if you buy one, they will install it? I was thinking of getting an ACT clutch so it can take some abuse. But, then I see in other posts that the beefier the clutch, the harder it is on the tranny.. is this true?
Yes this is true. You have to remember that your Stock Transmission was built for use with the Stock Clutch. So if you were to put in another different make of clutch, I would suggest getting one as close to stock performance as possible. However, i'm sure you can get away with a slightly more aggressive clutch.
As far as "why" an aggressive clutch has the potential to damage the stock transmission, is due primarily to the "bite" or engagement of the clutch. If the engagement is excessive, the severe power transfer from the clutch through the driveline will end up in transmission failure much sooner than a "softer" clutch would, if at all. An example would be like dropping the clutch from 6,000 rpm; the power and friction is not expelled through tire spin as in a 2wd car. Instead, it’s transferred right back up the driveline and into the transmission. As far as clutches are concerned, the clutch forces all that power and friction onto the transmission and the gears take a jolt. A severe enough “jolt” will be the end of your transmission.
I tried to break that down into a simple to understand description, I hope it helps.
Very helpful, makes good sense too. I would want a clutch thats slightly better than stock if I could so it will last alittle longer, because I like to drive hard. Do you know of any for cheap?
Very helpful, makes good sense too. I would want a clutch thats slightly better than stock if I could so it will last alittle longer, because I like to drive hard. Do you know of any for cheap?
Here, I was checking out some of the vendors here on the site, and came across this page http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8200 , where it gives a short description of each clutch kits characteristics. I hope that helps.
Check out the transmissions on this web page. If you're not going for too much power probably around 300 or so to the wheels, the STi RA V6 should be fine. And it's gotta great price.
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