COBB Stage 2. - Subaru WRX Forum
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#1 Old 01-31-2009, 09:56 AM
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COBB Stage 2.

Ok, I tried searching and couldnt really find this out.

EM is a must with our cars so some sort is the best starting point. I am thinking the COBB AP.

DP is a great place to gain some power and open up the ehaust. Also thinking COBB.

CBE doesnt really matter so much in our cars? Thats the hint im getting anyway.

So I guess my question is, With EM and a DP great places to gain a few extra ponies, Is the COBB Stage 2 Package reall worth $1,800????

Or should I just get the AP and then go with a cheaper bellmouth DP and Ebay exhaust?
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#2 Old 01-31-2009, 11:59 AM
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before you go stage 2 on that car you might wanna get rid of that uppipe if you still have the stocker.

imo hell no it's not worth 1800 for stage 2.

just get a downpipe, AP, and maybe a k&n drop in filter.

RallySportDirect.com - Elite AWD 3" Down Pipe to Stock/Tapered Cat back Adapter

RallySportDirect.com - Invidia WRX STI V2 Downpipe Catless

RallySportDirect.com - K&N WRX STi Panel Air Filter

that's roughly below $1100 including the AP and gaskets

rollin on 17's now and they're dirty
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#3 Old 01-31-2009, 01:44 PM
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Or you could go on your local NASIOC forum, and buy used! Believe me, you will save so much money. And the COBB stage 2 is worth it if all you want is the best quality parts. Buy the AP, find a downpipe for <300 give or take. Then buy the catback of your choice.
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#4 Old 01-31-2009, 03:16 PM
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Nothing says you have to buy the parts new.50-75% of my parts were used.Also Opensource is a much cheaper alternative to Cobb's AP.CBE exhaust only make a difference once you have an aftermarket downpipe.

Homebrewed tuned with Opensource!
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#5 Old 01-31-2009, 03:44 PM
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Thanks guys. Thats pretty much what I was thinking. I have no problem buying used but I just want to find the deal. I was eyeing a helix dp on ebay awhile back but it just vanished.

Is there anything bad about ERZ up and down pipes? Iv read about a few cars with them in Subiesport mag and see them on the bay for pretty cheap.

Another thing, Baller_V24, I heard that oiled filters like the K&N are bad for our cars because of the sensor in the intake. Is this true? Iv run K&N on my old Jeep TJ rockcrawler with out an issue but there were no sensors on that one.

Also, CBE are mainly just for tone correct? They dont really do much.
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#6 Old 01-31-2009, 03:55 PM
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there are several people that run that same drop-in filter with no issues.

The perceived issue is that oil gets on the maf sensor. As long as you dont excessively oil you filter and you let it dry as much as possible. you will not run into any issues.

plus k&n guarantees it

rollin on 17's now and they're dirty
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#7 Old 01-31-2009, 04:10 PM
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Cool, iv been thinking about picking up a K&N this week and doing the intake silencer removal but I will mod the silencer to use as an elbow. Just cut off the tank and glue a portion of the bottom of the tank to the hole left in the elbow to seal it off.
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#8 Old 01-31-2009, 04:11 PM
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rollin on 17's now and they're dirty
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#9 Old 01-31-2009, 04:24 PM
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Nice.
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#10 Old 01-31-2009, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
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Also, CBE are mainly just for tone correct? They dont really do much.
uuhhhmmm....no.They do plenty when used in conjuntion with a aftermarket downpipe.
CobbTuning.com - Exhaust Design

Homebrewed tuned with Opensource!
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#11 Old 01-31-2009, 05:12 PM
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Nice video on K&N's. I'm still superstitious and will continue to use CRC MAF cleaner every tune up. The silencer removal is easy. All you'll really need is a small hand saw and some glue, don't pay $40 for one already made!
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#12 Old 01-31-2009, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
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uuhhhmmm....no.They do plenty when used in conjuntion with a aftermarket downpipe.
CobbTuning.com - Exhaust Design
I didnt mean that in the "an exhaust doesnt do anything but make your car sound different" kinda way.

I was going at they all do the same thing in the end, correct? They open up your exhaust to reduce backpressure. My question was more along the lines of they are pretty much the same, correct? As in not really any difference between a full stainless Greddy next to a full stainless ebay exhaust? Same pipe diameter. Same as straight as possible design.

Correct me if im wrong guys.

Thanks dumdum.
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#13 Old 02-01-2009, 04:46 AM
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Well Deshi, not to be redundant...

No the Cobb Stage 2 Package isn't worth $1800.

Get a downpipe (I run Helix) and CBE (I run Espilir). Uppipe is a good thing to do as well, especially if you don't have an STi. As far as the tune goes, it really depends on whether or not you are planning to do more to your car. If you want to stick with DP, exhaust, and a good tune for a while, (which is good HP gains in itself) you could just get an open source tune on the stock ECU. Dyno tuned or road tuned probably 3 hours or less, $300 bucks.

If you plan to mod the car further in the immediate future and aren't sure where the subie madness will stop, get some sort of engine management. I ran a TurboXS Utec for a while on my car and loved it. As far as engine management goes it really comes down to what you need from the car. The Cobb Accessport V2's are great for an everyday street driver. Good user interface and easy access in the OBD2 port are definately pluses. The TurboXS Utec needs a laptop for tuning but goes a little deeper. The UTEC offers some nice features as a piggyback unit compared to the Accessport. Going a step further, the Element Hydras give you launch control as well as tons of other goodies like Hydramist management.

For a good deal, used is always an option. My advice is find a shop or online company that you can call and talk to about your car and who has an interest in what you want to do with it.

World One Performance is a local shop in the northwest that I deal with and have had great success with. They deal with a lot of out-of-state customers as well so I'm sure they could help you out.

World One Performance

*TBRex* 02 WRB WRX Wagon
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#14 Old 02-01-2009, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deshi View Post
I didnt mean that in the "an exhaust doesnt do anything but make your car sound different" kinda way.

I was going at they all do the same thing in the end, correct? They open up your exhaust to reduce backpressure. My question was more along the lines of they are pretty much the same, correct? As in not really any difference between a full stainless Greddy next to a full stainless ebay exhaust? Same pipe diameter. Same as straight as possible design.

Correct me if im wrong guys.
*Quality of steel
*Quality of welds
*Quality of fitment
*Quality of sound
*degree and # of bends

Homebrewed tuned with Opensource!
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#15 Old 02-01-2009, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumdum View Post
*Quality of steel
*Quality of welds
*Quality of fitment
*Quality of sound
*degree and # of bends

dumdum, Thank you for all the help you have given me on these forums allready. This may sound like im trying to argue with you but I assure you I am not. I value your opinion and the opinion of other members here.

Quality of steel: True but in my eyes, a piece of 304 stainless is the same no matter what company uses it.

Quality of welds: I understand this one very well, I used to rockcrawl quite a bit and I know that I would trust my old bosses welds over mine anyday.

Quality of fitment: Another real good ting to have but from what iv read on here, not all but most of the bay exhauts fit exceptionally well.

Quality of sound: I think you might have gone over my head on that one. Explain?

Degree and # of bends: from what I have seen, not all but most(again) exhaust systems for my car are almost completly straight. No more than 4 real short bends. As for the quality, I see no kinking in any of the ebay exhausts bends.

So from the above, I can not see paying upwards of $600 more for a name brand exhaust.

That is how I am seeing it all. Shed some light on it for me if you would if a (name brand) exhaust is really that much better than an ebay exhaust. I am egear to learn everything you guys are willing to teach me.

Thanks
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