Bugeye wont start after upgrades HELP - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-26-2014, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Bugeye wont start after upgrades HELP

Hi we are new to the forum and are looking for a bit of help.
my bro (rob) has a 2001 bugeye 2.0t and we just made a few purchases and done a small rebuild.
new mods...
.New vf34 turbo from rodgerclark
.up rated rodgerclark fuel pump
.sti top mount intercooler
.k&n typhoon air filter
.sti pink injectors
.sti manifold with tgv (tumblers) delete
.exedy organic clutch and sreet flywheel from rodgerclark.
.ngk iridium plugs
.samco intake hose.
.prosport boost gauge
.rodgerclarke uprated head studs and nuts with 0.78 thick head gaskets think this is correct thickness.


For the rebuild we took the engine out and took the heads of cleaned all surfaces installed studs and put heads back on and torqued to speck. got the cams in and all timed up then refitted engine once all in we installed the sti mani with pink injectors and went from there. got it all ready to fire up and turns over fine but will not start it sounds like its firing as it has a exhaust note similar to running note. we primed it a few times ignition on and of but nothing checked the coil pack and the coil pack leads that plug on and all ok. from looking at front of the car turbo to left the firing order is 1 3...2 4 higher numbers at back. still wont have it so plugged in code reader and gave a load of tgv (tumbler valve codes) p1094 p1096 p1086 p1088 p1086 p1088.
checked it has fuel and spark and does but still nothing and we drained the battery trying different things. we have just plugged the tgv switches into the loom and now is loose in the engine bay but still bringing up the codes.
we are not using the sti wiring loom that is usual attached to the mani we are using his old loom.
the idea was to get it running and drive off boost till we get a remap in a week.

so if anyone has and answers as to why it wont start it would be very appreciated.
we could do with the help cheers luke and rob
pics to come when running
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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anyone ??
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 08:47 AM
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Give people time for response. A lot of time people aren't on yet or maybe are doing homework to better help you.

To me it seems it could be you have to map at all for the mods you have done.

Maybe take some pics now of the engine bay to help better show set up

Best bet would be to go back to stock intake, manifold and injectors and see if she turns over.

05 WRX Wagon - East Coast Swappers Protuned "Stage 4" w/Cobb AP

282 WHP / 247 WTQ
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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@GSMNZ cheers for reply
we was told by a couple of mappers and rodgerclark that it would run and said not to go on boost till it is mapped.
the car turns over spot on but just wont fire up, it does for mabey a second but thats it.
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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top hose removed and cover moved to check. battery on charge
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 10:49 AM
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Have you checked your throttle cable? Maybe it needs to be a little tighter. I know when I changed out the TB on my conquest one time I completely forgot to check the cable and after a little adjustment BAM! she turned over

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282 WHP / 247 WTQ
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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the cable is fine and good
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 12:59 PM
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Im not sure what it is but I can assure you it is not because of deleted tgv's. How do you know its getting spark and fuel?

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post #9 of 12 Old 05-27-2014, 09:32 PM
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How the ignition and fuel pressure. If I were you I would check this things first.
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-28-2014, 01:30 PM
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I would check that fuel pump first, Its always the little things that get in the way of a great build. If it ran for a split second and then wont run it may not be getting fuel. I would bust out the voltmeter and check for voltage at the Fuel sending unit (read fuel ump). I never recommend bench testing fuel related parts after they have been in the tank but it may be worth pulling out and verifying all the connections from the pump to the wiring harness.

When you get it running it is STRONGLY SUGGESTED tat you do not run it at all until you re-map. Thats alot of new hardware and a tiny slip could cause a huge issue down the road. If you already apid all that for those new parts what another hundred bucks to have it towed to your tuner? Just my .02cents

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post #11 of 12 Old 05-28-2014, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticscythe View Post
I would check that fuel pump first, Its always the little things that get in the way of a great build. If it ran for a split second and then wont run it may not be getting fuel. I would bust out the voltmeter and check for voltage at the Fuel sending unit (read fuel ump). I never recommend bench testing fuel related parts after they have been in the tank but it may be worth pulling out and verifying all the connections from the pump to the wiring harness.

When you get it running it is STRONGLY SUGGESTED tat you do not run it at all until you re-map. Thats alot of new hardware and a tiny slip could cause a huge issue down the road. If you already apid all that for those new parts what another hundred bucks to have it towed to your tuner? Just my .02cents

I strongly agree with this statement!
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-28-2014, 09:16 PM
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Or they should be able to send you a base map to limp you there at the least. My biggest worry would be running it with those injectors. And double/triple check all your connections you messed with around the harness when you pulled it and took it apart.
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