anything i need to know... - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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anything i need to know...

before my install up pipe, down pipe, n cat back exhaust system this weekend??

so excited lol but about the O2 sensor n all that BS i have no idea what to do with it or how it works or ###. well, just anything i need 2 kno in general, would be great. o n by the way if anybody knows a good, pictured set of instructions i would really appreciate that cuzz i have no idea what i'm gonna be doing still looking for tutorials lol. help? thnx
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post #2 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 09:04 AM
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For the o2 sensor:
1. Buy a offset o2 wrench. This will save you a ton of time and frustration. Don't decide to just try without it. Buy it before you start.
2. If you do step 1 then the rest of the o2 sensor stuff is easy. Make sure you notch the heat sheild so it is even easier next time.

Be prepared to lift your engine about an inch to slide in the up pipe and you may want to start doing finger exercises in preparation for bolting your new down pipe to the turbo.

As far as instructions go look at cobb's website. They have downloadable instructions for their products with pictures and stuff. I used it in conjunction with a stage two install I found somewhere. Sorry I can't remember where but Cobb will get you started.
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post #3 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 11:54 AM
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buy new OEM gaskets!!!! There is a torquing order for the bolts to install the up-pipe. Give yourself a good amount of time.
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post #4 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 12:16 PM
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That intercooler is really easy to get off, but can be a pain in the ass to get back on. Use some lube and or a hair dryer and heat up the tubing that slides onto the turbo, it will make your day better.

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post #5 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 12:35 PM
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Wd40 for all the stubborn bolts. <- Given on any car.

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post #6 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuBeast View Post
Wd40 for all the stubborn bolts. <- Given on any car.
PB Blaster for all the stubborn bolts. If you are goin do it, do it right.

Look into getting intercooler hoses as they will ease the reinstallation and add some power.
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post #7 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanwrxwagon View Post
PB Blaster for all the stubborn bolts. If you are goin do it, do it right.

Look into getting intercooler hoses as they will ease the reinstallation and add some power.
Do it right? ........ I bet there is no difference between WD40, PB, or any other reliable liquid wrench stuff... Practically impossible to test which is better lol.... Just whichever you like to use I guess. I use WD40 on everything... even my brake rotors.... :eek: Just kidding.

To subarooster: Good Luck with the installation... You should definately make sure you have plenty of time for the installation. For me, I usually like to make sure I have nothing to do the next day in case something goes wrong. Do you have any mechanically inclined friends that can come help you? Most of the time i'm working, I wish I had another set of hands to help...

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post #8 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 11:21 PM
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your definetly going to want to have the next day clear and make sure you have blaster or whatever and you want to be vary carefull with the egt sensor in the up pipe as it can be fragile. and if you break it it's the cheapest sensor on the hole damn car (thank god) and is about $50 from the dealer. and i like to have a air hammer ready with a chizzel bit and some extra bolts ### it's alot easyer and faster to break the bolts off then get them off most of the time. but only the ones that clamp 2 pipes together not the ones that go into the engine!

O2 PEARL BLACK WAGON with some modds
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post #9 of 21 Old 11-11-2008, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuBeast View Post
Do it right? ........ I bet there is no difference between WD40, PB, or any other reliable liquid wrench stuff... Practically impossible to test which is better lol....
Actually, you can test it. What the objective of the liquid wrench type of stuff is to dissolve the rust that has it frozen. An easy test is get a couple styrofoam cups and a stop watch. Put some of each product in individual cups and time how long it takes to dissolve the cup. PB Blaster and Knock'er Loose are the fastest. WD-40 just sits there. One word of warning, do this outside, the fumes are rough.

The up-pipe is easiest if the turbo is out of the way, but if you don't want to deal with the oily, coolanty (yeah, I just made that up) mess you can grab a sawzall and cut through it once you get it halfway down. OR the easier method is put a jack under the oil pan and slowly raise the engine up AFTER removing the transmission supports at the tail of the transmission and the dog bone (pitch stop) under the intercooler. You'll actually rotate the engine and give yourself more room to squeeze the flange out from the frame.

BTW, it took me 11 hours to learn the lessons about making the up-pipe easy.

VF34'd Corvette Killer aka Doug
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post #10 of 21 Old 11-12-2008, 12:42 AM
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If you jack up the engine from the oil pan please use a block of wood. I think I used 3/4 plywood about as big as the flat surface of the oil pan.
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post #11 of 21 Old 11-12-2008, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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thanks a lot everybody. also should i just use jacks or what?? i was thinking of buying ramps. and about that 02 offset wrench could i just pick that up at my local kragen or autozone??
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post #12 of 21 Old 11-12-2008, 01:31 AM
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You can get the wrench at any auto parts store. Use jack stands as you will need to remove the passenger side front wheel to remove the O2 sensor. It is under the liner.
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post #13 of 21 Old 11-12-2008, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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ok cool thanks a lot

o one more question. the system is fully catless. i don't have an accesport...yet. is it ok to run my car with the check engine light on or will it just end up scrambling the ECU cuzz it gets so confused i donno i heard that
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post #14 of 21 Old 11-12-2008, 10:55 AM
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It is not recommended to go to stage two without engine management. You won't see much of a performance upgrade and your engine will run like crap. You will end up with a loud car that is only moderately faster than stock with less reliability to boot. I would suggest only installing the cat back and maybe up pipe. Once you get the access port install the down pipe.
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post #15 of 21 Old 11-12-2008, 12:50 PM
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I never heard about it running bad stage2 with stock; not "no", EM... I thought it would be just like any normal header upgrade on anything; increasing exhaust flow.... But then when you get a tune (i.e. AP) it will really bring out the power.....

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