I got no video for you and my car is totally different but here's how it went for me:
-Loosen front lugs (just a little so you can get them off later)
-Pick up the car about 14" on all four corners on stands (in my case it was solid pavers (not cinder blocks))
-Drain tranny fluid (You'll need the right size, HUGE torx bit)
-From the rear of the car, disconnect driveshaft (three or four small bolts by rear diff)
-Disconnect tranny mounts (I completely removed the whole black metal mount)
-Disconnect shifting linkage
-Remove front wheels
-On my car I was able to remove the castle nut underneath the car and pop the ball joint on my lower control arm (using a jack to slowly release the strut tension)... not the best way to do it but you don't have to worry about alignment issues due to removed struts. There's a trick to popping the ball joint. Jack up the suspension by the castle nut, this will allow an object (such as a correctly sized socket or bar stock) to be put between the lower arm and the ball joint (this is hard to explain but you'll see). Then you just release the jack tension and it should pop the ball joint without a special tool.
-The above gives just enough clearance to pull the axles out of the tranny and swing them toward the rear of the car and out of the way (I used a pry bar VERY CAREFULLY).
Be careful, one of the boots on the axle can be pulled out from itself, it's a pain in the ass to get back in (I mean the axle is two pieces, one goes into the other and can slide in and out to adjust for width).
-Disconnect the black support at the top of the motor under intercooler
-Put tranny jack under tranny and support it (You can also get away with using an engine hoist from up top but you'll have to either remove hood or set the air pistons to the lower bolt holes to make it straight up).
-Remove tranny bolts (There's a specific sequence to do this in a service manual, I didn't do this).
-Split the tranny from block and remove.
When putting it back on, DO NOT USE BOLTS OR ANY OTHER MECHANICAL FORCE TO PUT THE TRANNY BACK ON. I did, and I broke the tranny (and clutch) and had to do it again after $1400 and a 1200 mile drive. Wiggle it on, if it doesn't go on again, pull off, and try again. If it still doesn't go on, check clutch and make sure it's dead center. The tranny should slip on almost until it touches without any significant effort, you will have to wrestle with it but just to move it around, not to push the input shaft into the clutch wheel/bearing.
You will likely need to jack up the front of the engine and the change angle of the tranny to line them up.
-If using old tranny, change the axle seals while you're in there
The rest is reverse.
When you're done fill it through the top tube with the correct gear oil and a vacuum hose to make it easy (this is easiest with intercooler off). Do not overfill (keep checking fluid level), you will need over 3 bottles if I remember correctly, but look up how much you need for your year.
If I missed something, someone please chime in if you catch it.