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04 WRX, looking to upgrade turbo

33K views 40 replies 5 participants last post by  wrxsnowman 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I haven't posted on here in quite a while. Anyways, I'm trying to make a decision on whether to drop a new turbo in my wrx or not. Here's the deal, its a 2004 that has been running stage 2 cobb AP, and TBE since roughly 20k miles. The car now has 115000 on it, and the TDO4 is fine and I'm still getting boost, however, the car is going to be paid off in roughly a month, and I'm going to have about 3500 that I could spend for a turbo upgrade to please the butt dyno a little more. However, I have a few questions that I would like to get a general consensus about. The turbo I'm thinking of going with would be the 68HTA and supporting mods, however I haven't decided on a TMIC or FMIC.

1. At 115000-120000 miles is that really an issue when going for a turbo upgrade
2. I know the wrx trannys aren't very strong and I'm running a fairly new clutch of 40k miles, however my 3rd gear synchro has been messed up since about 90k miles...my error in a horrible 3rd gear grind. Would 68HTA be to much turbo to risk with my tranny.
3. For a noticeable turbo upgrade what would you guys recommend if the 68HTA isn't adviseable. I've been in a VF34 WRX and not a huge difference that I noticed on the butt dyno so I would like to think of something more potent
4. I would like any and all thoughts and would appreciate any input on what I should consider with my 04

Thanks Guys
 
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#2 ·
If you really want to do it correctly, get the gears done first. You WILL have more fun with the td04 with a better tranny. By the time the "fun factor" wears off on that, might look into getting the motor redone or maybe replaced before you slap a bigger charger on there.

Is this your DD or fun car?
 
#3 ·
Has your Maintnence been caught up?
Have you upgraded your suspension?
Will you have the money saved for another set of gears after your turbo upgrade?

You have to take all this into consideration with the mileage you have on your ride now.
Be safe about it so you don't regret it

GL..............CHEERS!!!
 
#4 ·
I've been spot on on my maintanece, and my suspension is still factory. Here is the deal, I'm going to the Army in October and I'll have the money to put into my car before I go. Once I go into the Army I won't have any bills other than typical stuff ie. phone, cable, internet type stuff. Once I get out of basic and AIT I should have a pretty good chunk saved up that I could do a gear upgrade. Currently the car is a DD, but once I go to the Army it will be sitting for a few months and probably not driven much until I get stationed. I guess I'm just trying to find a way to play with my car a little before I head to basic. Its not something I have to do, I've just wanted a bigger turbo since I got the car just haven't really had the money or time to get it done.
 
#6 ·
That's a decent idea, keep in mind your gonna want to do suspension along with your turbo upgrade.
When I kill my car, it will allow me to go buy a newer one while my 02 gets an awesome build... Or so I plan anyway.
Many will tell you not to upgrade your turbo without doing suspension first. But if your leaving shortly after the upgrade, I don't see that hurting as long as you save up and do it right when you get back.
Your factory shocks are probably on there last leg. I replaced mine at 110kish. And they were shot.
End links, sways ect ect should also be done at this point to further help your car to reach the full potential you want from this turbo upgrade.
Most will also say don't mod too crazy like that with your mileage. But with the engine build in the future, why not. As long as you don't mind bolting things up, just to unbolt them and swap them back in again.
 
#7 ·
Heck part of the fun in tweaking with a car is tearing it apart and putting stuff together. Hell, I built a motor for my 89 Camaro, and building a wrx would be interesting. Besides the car will be paid off, and I'll probably buy a motorcycle, or a cheap car to get me around if in fact my wrx takes a dump. Maybe I could just go with a mild tune on the 68HTA or just becareful how I drive and just enjoy the get up and with out aggresively driving it too hard until I get my tranny redone. I'm only going to have about 3k-3.5k to spend here in a month...what do you recomend I do. I would like to add a turbo to get a little more kick in the pants, but if there are things that I really really need I can include them in the budget
 
#12 ·
A 20G is a death sentence for his motor.

Suspension and brakes need to be done before the turbo is upgraded. At your mileage your stock struts are past the end of their life anyways. You will need to replace those. Those Tokico D-Specs are what I run, but they are not a good choice for weak springs.

If you're worried about your 3rd gear synchros, making your car quicker will only hasten their demise. With a more powerful car you will be spending more time shifting from higher RPMs.

What is your complete mod list?
 
#13 ·
Currently Cobb AP/TBE Stage 2 However this is what I"m looking at as for mod list of what I would like to do

Suspension:

1. Bushings - 400
2. Shocks/Struts - 800
3. Endlinks - 115
4. Sway Bars Rear- 152
Total - 1467

Turbo:
1. 68HTA - 1433
2. Deatschwerks Injectors 650-750cc - 340/440
3. Walbro Pump - 99
4. Inlet Hose - 207
5. Up-Pipe Invidia - 150
6. Intercooler - 764
7. Fuel Rails Cosworth - 320
8. Timing Belt - 113

Total - 4000

Transmission:

1. Type RA STi Gear Set - 1115
2. Installation Kit - 268
Total RA Gears: 1400
1. PPG Gears - 4675
Total PPG gears roughly: 5000
 
#15 ·
So I've been doing some thinking. What if I just did a vf39 or 16g turbo with the cobb ap map, and get a pro tune, with a TMIC. I figure VF39 or 16g (except FP doesn't make just a 16g, its the 68HTA so it seems) wouldn't be as killer on the engine or tranny.

Also, I've already decided I'll do the suspension, at least new struts, sway bar and bushings. However, just a few thoughts on that.
1. Since I'm not going to be autocrossing or road racing, are the TiC Tok D-specs really worth it over oem struts or STi pinks? As it looks right now for the TiC Tok D-specs with springs and stuff I'd be looking at around 1500 which I'm sure would make my car crazy good handling
2. Assuming I just went with OEM struts, would it be wise to replace the springs or just basicly rebuild my suspension to OEM spec and get a rear sway bar?
3. I would rather not have any drop in ride height as I like to play on dirt roads, and I have been known to drive places that need a little bit of clearance. I kind of use my car just about anywhere I can lol

So in a nutshell.. I'm thinking to try to keep it as cheap as possible for now since I'm going to be working with a 3k-3.5k budget I would do this

OEM Struts
Whiteline 22mm Rear sway w/endlinks
Bushings set from TiC

VF39/16g maybe the Blouch 16g
TMIC STi, or turboxs with STi splitter
Pink injectors
Walbro pump
Inlet hose
Up-pipe or de-cat the stock

And possibly the fuel rail if needed with this setup

So do this and enjoy it until I go to basic in october, then when I get out of basic and AIT I can think about putting PPG or Type RA gears in my tranny. PPGs are crazy pricy, but from what I'm reading the Type RA really aren't that much stronger than stock, 15-25%ish

Just some thoughts I've been pondering
 
#16 ·
The 39 is damn close to the 16g as far as added power goes and can be had for just a few hundred bucks(used). It will be a good jump for you without spending all that money on the upgrade. leaving you plenty of money to replace the much needed stuff at your mileage.

Your up needs replaced before you throw that turbo back in. You got lucky leaving it in this long. And as for the struts. And this is just my opinion. If you are just building a more powerful DD, than you can do what I did and just buy the stock replacements. KYB makes and sells them for between 450-600. But you really should do end links and such. I have had no problems with my KYB's and think my car handles beautifully for my DD.
 
#17 ·
I'll see if I can find a used 16g. I see blouch 16g, the non XT, goes for about 850 so I might do that. I've been looking at the KYB's GR-2. Which ones are you running the GR-2 or AGX? I don't know that I would really care for the AGX as it doesn't matter, but if I were racing I would go with the TiC Tok Spec-d or Koni's.

I will most definately replace the up, and it looks like I'm going to try to find a decent used or new 16g whether its the FP or Blouch and supporting mods. I'll go ahead and do the fuel rails as I remember reading about how cylinder 3 can have issues on the stock rails.

Have many people tried the Energy Suspension bushing kit off fastwrx.com?

With KYB struts, whiteline rear 22mm sway, TiC Bushings, and endlinks I'm looking about 1100 total with stock springs or should I install some new springs. I don't really want to lower my car at all as I mentioned.

Unless I can find some used parts for the turbo upgrade then I may have to wait until after basic. Once i have money in hand I can look around classifieds and see if I can find used TMICs, up-pipes, and 16g. I feel more comfortable buying injectors and pumps new.
 
#18 ·
You look pretty set. I have the GR-2's (seem dead close if not almost exactly as stock)
If you want a better spring and dont really want to lower it. Check out RCE blacks. They are a few hundred bucks but I have only read good reviews on them. The drop is next to nothing. If you did want to drop than I would say the yellows would be great to have. Although most people pair the yellows with koni's or something simular.
 
#20 ·
As far as up pipe goes, look for a used STI or 06-07 WRX up pipe. They are already catless and can/will save you some money. Its not a performance part so used shouldnt be a big deal on it. As far as the other parts, I would choose the TurboXS TMIC over the STI unit. The TurboXS is huge, and looks great, you can even find them used for a decent price also. As far as injectors I would look into deatschwerks at least, but if you plan on using the OTS map I would stick to the map notes as best as possible. And as far as the fuel rail, skip it, Been running my 20G setup without it for over 4yrs now without it and havent had an issue yet. Thats just my opinion though.
 
#21 ·
I'm going to get the GR-2s and probably add the RCE blacks as I want to maintain ride height. I'll consider the RCE yellows though and look at some pics of a wrx with them. Thanks for the links, I will definately take the time and read through them, however, I have a splitting headache so I'm not going to right now.

I've seen that it can be an issue to increase performance and have issues with the stock rail leaning out cylinder 3, however with a mild turbo upgrade if its not necessity I won't do that until I compelely rebuild.
I've been looking at the TurboXS tmic which is what I'll get, hopefully I can find one in decent shape used.
 
#22 ·
RCE Blacks will annihilate GR-2s. You will need the Tokicos or Koni Yellows if you want something that aggressive. Also, GR-2s will lift the front of your car up a bit. In addition to what ever you get, you will need new top hats as your old ones are worn.

RA gears are barely an upgrade on your car. Don't waste your time with them.

The fuel rails are not necessary. I would cut that from the list and add a clutch and factory Subaru flywheel. The stock one, if you're still on it, will not hold that much torque.
 
#26 ·
I really wouldn't want my front up any higher how would I combat this? Is there another strut combo I could look at to keep good performance/price. As I mentioned I don't plan on road racing/autox. I do plan on some spirited driving through curvy mountain roads and dirt roads, but nothing that requires precision of competition. If the GR-2s would lift the front end would the AGX be a better choice for adjusibility? Or is there a spring I could use with the GR-2 that would keep me in a fairly factory ride height. I would sacrifice some ride height for a proper direction to go with springs/struts.

Also I replaced the stock clutch at roughly 70k miles with the factory flywheel
 
#23 ·
OK, so I dont remember reading about the aggressiveness of the blacks, so If I was way off there... my appoligies.
Brfatal is sort of a guru with this. so I'll step back and let him do the teaching;) GL
 
#27 ·
What did you replace the clutch with?

And the only way to combat it is to add strut spacers in the rear to even it out. Some people like the AGX. I have no experience with them. But I do know it's a common complaint some people can't find a good setting for them. They only allow a few settings and people have said they go straight from too soft too too firm.

If you want to maintain your ride height, maybe try STI take off springs. They will still lower you some, but not as much as other aftermarket ones that are designed to do it.

Your strut choices really come down to GR-2, AGX, Koni Yellow inserts, Tokico Blues, Tokico D-Specs, '04 STI struts, or coilovers. The last option doesn't really sound like something you need.
 
#28 ·
I put a OEM exedy clutch in

I was planning on getting the strut spacers as mostly what I have read about them says to do. What are the STi Take off springs, the 04 OEM STi springs? I would prefer to buy new that way I wouldn't have to install new ones for a while so the 04 STi struts I would imagine would be similar pricing to any other struts.
 
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