respectable hp gains?? - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 42 Old 11-17-2013, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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respectable hp gains??

Im hopeing in the next month to pick up a cobb v3 along with a catless dp.which brand im not decided on yet.also MAYBE a spt intake for which ill be gettng a dry filter and makeing a custom heat shield/box.my question is what would be a resonable hp/tq range it would gain.i know all cars are diff along with the area you live in.its an 06 with 129k the exhaust is the only thing ive had chance to modify other then the snork delete.i dont have any idea where to look for a tuner because i live in bfe.also i dont have to worry about bs smog tests.also where could i pick up a good etune.in the future im looking at headers.any advice would be appreciated.and yea im a noob here but not to vehicles/performance!
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post #2 of 42 Old 11-17-2013, 08:13 PM
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Catless dp on our cars is a big no no. Chances of experienceing boost spike is huge also Cobb stage 2 is not compatible for a catless dp. Spend the extra money on a catted dp. Or you'll be spending more money in the long run for a external wastegate and dump tube an a compatible up pipe. Rant over


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post #3 of 42 Old 11-17-2013, 08:22 PM
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Probably right around 220 whp, 300 wtq (give or take).

Before you upgrade your headers, you might want to think about getting a larger top mount intercooler, fuel pump, and a 3 port electronic boost control solenoid along with a protune.

But if you do get tubular headers, be sure to keep an eye on the clearances. I have a set of GT-Spec unequal length headers on my 07 WRX and the front tube was close enough to my frame that it rubbed a little, so I had to get my dremel tool out and remove a little bit of material from the frame and touch it up with paint to keep it from rusting, but it's all good now. I also had an issue with the passenger's side lower tube being too close to my plastic under tray - some of the radiant heat from it melted some of the plastic, so I had to remove a good bit of that with my dremel tool too. In conclusion, a dremel tool will possibly solve all of your clearance problems.

Also keep in mind that unequal length headers maintain Subaru's signature boxer rumble and has slightly lower horsepower and slightly higher torque which is what you feel when you drive. Equal length headers will get rid of the Subaru rumble and make your car sound more like an average 4 cylinder car, but you'll have slightly higher horsepower gains and slightly lower torque gains. Listen to videos and whatnot and decide what you like. I don't have a massively huge turbo and I'm not concerned about big numbers or top-end highway pulls, so I'd rather feel more torque and maximize my daily driving fun... just some food for thought.

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post #4 of 42 Old 11-17-2013, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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I wasnt aware of the boost spikes were awful bad on the non cat dp.assumed with what i read the accessport would correct the balance with a proper tune? I like as much of a free flowing exhaust as possible.other then that the other reason i wanted the non cat was for the sound.as far as headers im prob goin with the unequal.im a welder/metal fabricator for trade so the trimming etc.wont be bad.thanks for the info tho.that helped make my choice easier
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post #5 of 42 Old 11-17-2013, 09:52 PM
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Hmmmm, I don't believe that whole boost spike theory at all. I haven't run a cat in my DP for years and never had an issue, even with my AP.

Header are a waste of money at your power level right now, focus on more important things first.
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post #6 of 42 Old 11-17-2013, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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So if i go with a non cat,would the ap correct the possibility of spikes? Which im guessing is caused by the o2's acting up bc of the increased cfm flow and rich/lean mixture in return causing the ecm to "correct" boost? Or would i need a custom tune to fix that prob.also been thinking about a custom tune bc the altitude i live in and the drastic temp changes 7 monthes out of the year?
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post #7 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 04:24 AM
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I also have a 06 and I did get boost spike accompanied by fuel cut when I went catless stage 2 ots. As hawkeye mentioned you are not supposed to run a catless dp with a Cobb ots tune. A tuner I won't mention publicly told me he could fix it via e-tune. Well, turns out he didn't. He only did 1 damn revision and said it was good...lmao .I fired him, bought a ebcs, ewg, and some other goodies and did lots of research on my next tuner. Like you there are no trustworthy tuners in my area so I went E-tune. People will say a e-tune is worst case scenario choice but I feel its the exact same as a road tune. The only difference is the tuner is not right next to you in the car. Sure you can squeeze a couple more ponies out on a dyno but I like my car being tuned on the road in the environment and conditions its actually going to be seeing while in use, Not with fans and stuff trying to replicate everyday conditions. I also don't really care about a hp#. I am very happy with my final results and can refer you to a good e-tuner if you decide to go that route. Good luck!

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post #8 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 04:28 AM
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Oh yeah, Im not saying a e-tune is best cause its probably not. Just saying don't ever rule it out or let anyone tell you its a bad idea. No matter if its on a dyno, road, or e-tune do yourself a favor and get that custom tune! Just make sure they are a reputable tuner.

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post #9 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 04:56 AM
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It's because the wastegate on 2nd gens and earlier suck. Catless lets them overboost by accident. It's a mechanical issue that is best solved by a 3 port and EWG . I have both of the above mods, but my EWG is plumbed back into my exhaust pipe because I can't stand a dump tube.

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post #10 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 05:45 AM
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Again I never had that issue and I have only seen maybe a few people that did...

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post #11 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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In the end ill prob end up goin with a catted.seems less headache.and im def doin the etune.id like something tailored to my car/area instead of the generic.thanks for the info everyone
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post #12 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turmic View Post
It's because the wastegate on 2nd gens and earlier suck. Catless lets them overboost by accident. It's a mechanical issue that is best solved by a 3 port and EWG . I have both of the above mods, but my EWG is plumbed back into my exhaust pipe because I can't stand a dump tube.
I have both mods too... and my EWG dumps directly to the atmosphere because I love dump tubes! It's personal preference really. Good foot control can keep the thing quiet, but it sure is fun as hell when you want to blast someone

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post #13 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rex0601 View Post
In the end ill prob end up goin with a catted.seems less headache.and im def doin the etune.id like something tailored to my car/area instead of the generic.thanks for the info everyone

good choice. Will be less headache and cheaper if you were to experience overboosting.




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I have both mods too... and my EWG dumps directly to the atmosphere because I love dump tubes! It's personal preference really. Good foot control can keep the thing quiet, but it sure is fun as hell when you want to blast someone
^^agreed^^

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post #14 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 09:51 AM
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It can happen Keith...not saying everyone has it happen. But, it can. I like rock solid boost vs jumpy boost. (That's what she said :P )
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post #15 of 42 Old 11-18-2013, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man show View Post
Probably right around 220 whp, 300 wtq (give or take).
300 wtq? On a TD04?

On the OTS map: 220-230 whp 220-230 wtq.

There are 9 tuners within a 2-4 hr drive of him. I'd recommend he pick one of those places over an e-tune.
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