Im hopeing in the next month to pick up a cobb v3 along with a catless dp.which brand im not decided on yet.also MAYBE a spt intake for which ill be gettng a dry filter and makeing a custom heat shield/box.my question is what would be a resonable hp/tq range it would gain.i know all cars are diff along with the area you live in.its an 06 with 129k the exhaust is the only thing ive had chance to modify other then the snork delete.i dont have any idea where to look for a tuner because i live in bfe.also i dont have to worry about bs smog tests.also where could i pick up a good etune.in the future im looking at headers.any advice would be appreciated.and yea im a noob here but not to vehicles/performance!
Catless dp on our cars is a big no no. Chances of experienceing boost spike is huge also Cobb stage 2 is not compatible for a catless dp. Spend the extra money on a catted dp. Or you'll be spending more money in the long run for a external wastegate and dump tube an a compatible up pipe. Rant over
Probably right around 220 whp, 300 wtq (give or take).
Before you upgrade your headers, you might want to think about getting a larger top mount intercooler, fuel pump, and a 3 port electronic boost control solenoid along with a protune.
But if you do get tubular headers, be sure to keep an eye on the clearances. I have a set of GT-Spec unequal length headers on my 07 WRX and the front tube was close enough to my frame that it rubbed a little, so I had to get my dremel tool out and remove a little bit of material from the frame and touch it up with paint to keep it from rusting, but it's all good now. I also had an issue with the passenger's side lower tube being too close to my plastic under tray - some of the radiant heat from it melted some of the plastic, so I had to remove a good bit of that with my dremel tool too. In conclusion, a dremel tool will possibly solve all of your clearance problems.
Also keep in mind that unequal length headers maintain Subaru's signature boxer rumble and has slightly lower horsepower and slightly higher torque which is what you feel when you drive. Equal length headers will get rid of the Subaru rumble and make your car sound more like an average 4 cylinder car, but you'll have slightly higher horsepower gains and slightly lower torque gains. Listen to videos and whatnot and decide what you like. I don't have a massively huge turbo and I'm not concerned about big numbers or top-end highway pulls, so I'd rather feel more torque and maximize my daily driving fun... just some food for thought.
I wasnt aware of the boost spikes were awful bad on the non cat dp.assumed with what i read the accessport would correct the balance with a proper tune? I like as much of a free flowing exhaust as possible.other then that the other reason i wanted the non cat was for the sound.as far as headers im prob goin with the unequal.im a welder/metal fabricator for trade so the trimming etc.wont be bad.thanks for the info tho.that helped make my choice easier
So if i go with a non cat,would the ap correct the possibility of spikes? Which im guessing is caused by the o2's acting up bc of the increased cfm flow and rich/lean mixture in return causing the ecm to "correct" boost? Or would i need a custom tune to fix that prob.also been thinking about a custom tune bc the altitude i live in and the drastic temp changes 7 monthes out of the year?
I also have a 06 and I did get boost spike accompanied by fuel cut when I went catless stage 2 ots. As hawkeye mentioned you are not supposed to run a catless dp with a Cobb ots tune. A tuner I won't mention publicly told me he could fix it via e-tune. Well, turns out he didn't. He only did 1 damn revision and said it was good...lmao .I fired him, bought a ebcs, ewg, and some other goodies and did lots of research on my next tuner. Like you there are no trustworthy tuners in my area so I went E-tune. People will say a e-tune is worst case scenario choice but I feel its the exact same as a road tune. The only difference is the tuner is not right next to you in the car. Sure you can squeeze a couple more ponies out on a dyno but I like my car being tuned on the road in the environment and conditions its actually going to be seeing while in use, Not with fans and stuff trying to replicate everyday conditions. I also don't really care about a hp#. I am very happy with my final results and can refer you to a good e-tuner if you decide to go that route. Good luck!
Oh yeah, Im not saying a e-tune is best cause its probably not. Just saying don't ever rule it out or let anyone tell you its a bad idea. No matter if its on a dyno, road, or e-tune do yourself a favor and get that custom tune! Just make sure they are a reputable tuner.
It's because the wastegate on 2nd gens and earlier suck. Catless lets them overboost by accident. It's a mechanical issue that is best solved by a 3 port and EWG . I have both of the above mods, but my EWG is plumbed back into my exhaust pipe because I can't stand a dump tube.
I have both mods too... and my EWG dumps directly to the atmosphere because I love dump tubes! It's personal preference really. Good foot control can keep the thing quiet, but it sure is fun as hell when you want to blast someone
I think the reason for the confusion is that all those guys have a 06 or 07. Different engine,different down pipe. Different problems. We are lucky enough to have bugeyes.
Our 2.0L handle downpipes much better. I did a little checking and found we don't even need a tune at all for a downpipe. I wouldn't recommend it for long and you will get more out of it with a tune.
(Taken from Unabomber's Manifesto)
Do I need engine management with a downpipe? For 02/03 WRX and 04-06 STI users, no. For 04+ WRX and 07+ STI users, it's pretty much a requirement as the open loop/closed loop fueling issue mandated by the EPA causes long term reliability problems with using a downpipe and no tuning. For STI users, the STI was the one exception manufacturers are allowed to have, but it's a wise move regardless as the STI and 06+ WRX users have a good chance of boost creep occuring with downpipe use. Tuning can ease this issue.
In the end ill prob end up goin with a catted.seems less headache.and im def doin the etune.id like something tailored to my car/area instead of the generic.thanks for the info everyone
I have both mods too... and my EWG dumps directly to the atmosphere because I love dump tubes! It's personal preference really. Good foot control can keep the thing quiet, but it sure is fun as hell when you want to blast someone
Here's my dyno graph with a td04. I also asked for a safe conservative tune. It is a virtual dyno but research tells me they are surprisingly close if you enter all data correct.
Were is a good place to look for local tuners in a area? I wouldnt think of running a aftermarket dp w/o a tune.thats a time bomb for the motor and prob make it a turd to boot.in regards to the topic i was jw what a reliable hp number people have expieranced with those mods.id looked around at numerous graphs and most were maybes.250-300 hp is no good if your car cant effectivly produce it w.o falling on its face.ive got some leave comeing up and would like to put some time in on some things.
...and I hit 238 whp/308 wtq with my stock TD04 on IAG's Dynojet dyno on a conservative tune.
Maybe 280 is a more realistic number for his torque. I was just throwing a number out there because that's what he asked for. The beers probably didn't help either.
So a lil update.last weekend i installed a spt SR.bought it bc i ran across a good deal(120$ new and shipped)i ordered a ap v3 last weekend along with a catted cnt downpipe.talked to a guy at a jobsite who had one on his 07 who swore by them as been good qualiy for the $.both are at home waiting.ill be installing the dp this weekend and toying with the ap.can i run the spt on a stage 1 ots map in case i dont get time or weather permits the install of the dp.and after i do the dp can i run it on a sage 2 ots.ive read yes and no.the cobb and spt are basically the same.same diameter and both"safe" on bone stock.im assuming cobb tested theres bc its there product.pretty much just want any feedback on if anybodys done this.i dont want to waste $ on the intake but i also dont want creep or a crapped out car??!
I flashed stage 1 93+sf and under 70-100% throttle the car feels more sluggish then before then takes off? should i reset the computer by unhooking batt so that it can learn? I havent installed the dp yet due to time but thats one reason id like to keep the sri.eventually ill get it e tuned or pro.
Do you have the correct intake installed, for the map you're running (what intake is it)? Are you sure you're running 93 octane? Have you done any data logs, if so post them or send them to Cobb to be looked at.
I have the spt sri.the map i downloaded from cobbs website said stage 1 93+sf 3.0. I know i downloaded that map along with the stage 1 91+sf.but when i went to flash it there was already a 91 and 93.makeing 2 of each.perhaps i clicked the wronged one,would it specify sf? Im aware of what cobb says about only using there intake.i never fig it would stumble that much.i dont have a steady log yet.have been learning how to use the ap first
I believe the map you have installed is for the cobb sf intake not the spt. Put your stock intake back on and install the stage 1 map that doesn't have an intake.
Look at the link below. The 06 wrx only has ots maps for cobb sf intake and stock. You would need a protune or etune for a different intake.
So install your stock intake and stage 1 map. After you see it drives better it would behoove you to do a data log or two to check and verify everything is running well.
the ap has those maps already in it thats why there was two, unless there were there for the different intakes. u should really stick to the map notes and put on an intake that goes with your map. i know that if u throw off your MAF our cars run like hell.
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