I'm not 100% on this, and I'm sure someone else will chime in eventually, but I would think the 2 main reasons that the 2011 is $7,000 more is for a few reasons, and a couple of these might just be personal opinions. I personally think that the 4 DR Sedan is a little more desirable than the 5 DR. Just my .02. The 2011 is barely over a year old. Maybe more b/c it still possibly has warranty time left on it? Not really sure. Also, and I know this from experience as a salesman, the closer a car gets to 5 years old, the harder it is to get it financed, so sometimes they will drop the price on an older car, not only b/c it is older, but they still want to try and finance it b/c that is where the dealerships make their money. So, in short, they drop the price to lure you in, so they can sell this car and still finance it to make their cut before they hit the parameters of where the banks will cut them off. The cut off for financing a car is usually 5 years or 90K-120K in mileage, but obviously you don't have to worry about that part.
My best advice, and I'm not sure if you are doing this or not, b/c lets be honest, most people don't have the funds to out right pay for a car, but if you can, I can teach you a little trick to get it at the better price. If you go in and tell a dealer you want to FINANCE a car, they are going to try and give you longer terms, which give them more money. The longer terms usually entice buyers, b/c it drops that monthly payment down. Now, at this point, they think you are financing, and when you do that, this is where you have the power to negotiate. What you do is you get them retail price you want it at, tell them you agree to the financing terms, but at the last minute, tell them you want to just pay for it in full right there. Watch and see how fast they try and change the price on you, but they cant. That is honestly, from a former salesman, the best way to get the price you want.
Worst case scenario, if you have to finance, take the shorter terms with higher payments. In the end, you will be glad you did. Lower interest, and less time paying. If they don't get you to a respectable range for your credit, just get up, tell them you are sorry, and walk out. See how fast they try and chase you out.
Also, and most people know this, you have the power to negotiate your trade in. They are NOT going to offer you Blue Book Value. When a dealership does a trade in appraisal, 99% of the time, they go off of Black Book Value, which is wholesale. You CAN NEGOTIATE your trade. If you go a dealer, and lets say for example, the blue book trade in value is $10,000, but the private sale price is $14,000, you should aim to be halfway between those 2 numbers on your trade in. If you aren't in too much negative equity, then you should push to have them give you enough on your trade in to break even, that way they wont tack on the negative equity of your trade in, to your new car. That is another way they try to raise the sale price, but this ONLY applies if you are still making payments on your current vehicle.
HOPE THIS HELPS FOR NOW....
Jason - 2007 WRX TR - Warning: Objects In Mirror Are Losing