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New to me 2002 Subaru WRX.. advice wanted!

16K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  Fidrat 
#1 ·
Hey all, new to the whole turbo'd gas engine.. built a couple old mechanical Cummins so I understand a bit about fuel/air and turbos, but I'm not gonna pretend this car don't stump me because of the computer controlled stuff.

Anyway, I picked up a 2002 Subaru WRX, 165,000 miles with a 5 speed stick shift. Came with a 3 owner carfax, very very clean, and a stack of receipts from all maintenance and work done by the dealer. Car seems in very good condition, I've been driving it about 500 miles and haven't had a problem. Previous owner had dealer replace clutch, turbo, cat, axles, brakes, valve cover gaskets, water pump, radiator hoses and lines, and other stuff about 10k miles ago.

I recently replaced front/rear diff, transmission/transfer case, and engine oils so I know where I stand. No check engine lights, passed inspection easy.

This leads me to the reason I'm posting. Been doing some reading on here, so I figured I'd make an account to ask some questions. The previous owner let his son drive the car for all of a month before I got it, and in those 29 days a Fujita short ram intake and GReddy BOV made their way onto the car.. other than that it is ALL OEM parts. The first thing I had to do was soften the BOV as it wasn't opening, and forcing the air backwards causing turbo flutter. It is set up VTA, I at least have it adjusted where its working properly now. These two upgrades seem to be way out-of-order from what I've read. Is it safe to leave them on? Should I find stock parts and put them back on? This is my DD going to work, school, toting the wife and 3 kids around.. been there done that with go-fasters, I just want a nice reliable fun ride. The only thing I actually want on the car is exhaust, which I just ordered CNT V2 catback after reading some good reviews.. hope its quality.

Sorry for the long post, just getting that background info in and hopefully everything you need to know to get me an answer. Thanks in advance
 
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#4 ·
Good deal, at least I'm thinking on the right track. Any ideas where I could get the stock setup? I've been Google-ing and on Ebay but I haven't found anything yet, except factory direct that'll run me almost $500 just for the intake stuff. No junk yards anywhere near me either

Is there a better or less aggressive 'aftermarket' setup I can get away with? Or a tuner to help the computer adjust? I've read that the Cobb Accessport V2 can help even the stock setup run better, and correct irregularities
 
#6 ·
Ditch the BOV and the Intake for stock parts. Both are useless noise makers that cause nothing but trouble. Short ram intakes draw HOT air from under the hood.:notgood: Not good. It kind of defeats the purpose of a intercooler.:nono: I really wish these punk-assed kids would stop treating these cars like Hondas.:mad: I really wish I could RAM hot air into my turbo. That sounds like a great idea...NOT :pity:

I'm sure if you poke around on enough forums you will find the parts you need CHEAP! Come on guys..I know someone here has the parts this guy is looking for just lying around collecting dust.

I would go to the previous owners son and hold his head in the toilet until he comes up with the stock parts.
 
#8 ·
Not entirely true Fidrat

COBB's Intake can be fit into their "box", which helps reduce intake heat. The only issue with a Short-Ram

CAI's have their disadvantages as well. Throttle response and water issues.
 
#17 ·
Not entirely true Fidrat
The only issue with a Short-Ram.
The only issue? How about the MAF screwing with the ecu when the tube from the short-ram is too long too short or just different. A re-flash will solve this but what about the MAF its self?

Sometimes the air filter that comes with the short ram is over oiled or the owner over oils it themselves when they clean and re-oil the filter. (I've made that mistake myself) Sometimes this puts an oil film on the bulb in the MAF. (the thing that looks like a upside down paper match) The car will have jerky acceleration from a low rpm if it is dirty.

It can be easily cleaned off with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or MAF cleaning spray.(same thing) Spray it until the bulb is shinny. Don't drop it as it is very expensive.

Cobb is a good company that does a lot of research before putting a product on the market so they probably got the distance from the filter to the MAF right, as well as other companies that make intakes specifically for our cars.

The problem lies in the compulsion of the "Johnny ricer boys" to Mod the first thing they can get their grubby little hands on without doing one ounce of research. This is usually the intake and the BOV. They grab some no-name garbage or universal piece and slap it on their cars and wonder why it won't run right.

So to recommend thees as a first mod on the 02-07 WRX is not only wrong, It's BLASPHEMY!!! Plus it adds about as much horsepower as deer whistles.


PS. detrails01 PMed.
 
#9 ·
I picked up a pre-owned but NIB Cobb SF Short Ram Intake and Cobb Intake Air Box for $100, figured that was a good deal! It should work well with the Cobb Accessport I just ordered too. Not really interested in performance gains, but I like that it can read so many things in real-time, pull codes, and go ahead and tune the car to work specifically with that intake.

Might not be stock parts, but it should hopefully work well, yes?
 
#13 ·
Got one from the guy down the road, along with the Cobb intake! Forgot to mention that. Thanks for the advice though

Is it any better than a stock airbox with a drop-in K&N and a velocity stack in the fender with the stock snorkus feeding COLD air from the outside the car into the fender?
Ha no I know it's probably not THAT effective, but I meant better than that weird Fujita thing thats on there now.
 
#12 ·
Is it any better than a stock airbox with a drop-in K&N and a velocity stack in the fender with the stock snorkus feeding COLD air from the outside the car into the fender?
 
#16 ·
Hey Fidrat. I have a set of front cusco end links 02-07 wrx/sti brand new i picked up from rallysportdirect.com. I decided to purchase a sway bar kit instead so these new end links will be collecting
dust soon. Theyre basically the stock design only a lot stronger. I'm looking to just get rid of them at this point so if youre interested, id only want shipping for them. (proly around 10,15 bucks) I can post pics if youd like.

Let me know.
 
#21 ·
The Cobb SF Short Ram Intake and Cobb Intake Air Box comes with an oiled filter.;) and an aluminum box. Aluminum conducts heat and makes a poor insulator.

They also recommend you keep the intake silencer. I do not.

Some say you can get a cool sound with this intake. I can't see how if it uses the same intake silencer. Unless the buzzing of metal on metal sounds cool. I guess you could use rubber washers on all the nuts and bolts to prevent this.

Aluminum also conducts sound so maybe this is true.

The only saving grace with this intake is it uses the stock intake snorkel so you will get COLD air. If put in the same position as the OP I would do the same thing minus the silencer plus a tune. Oh, and that kids head would be in the toilet.:D

Maybe EPA H8R can give us a video to show us what it looks and sounds like!Thumbs Up
 
#23 ·
Actually, I've never liked the oiled air filter thing. It always made me nervous. It's good to know they make a dryflow filter for a CAI. It's the oiled filter that kept my brother from getting a CAI for his 2007 MazdaSpeed3. He will be glad to hear this.

Believe me, I know all too well the woes of an oiled air filter. I only brought it up because the Cobb kit comes with one.

The pipe is made of high temperature plastic composite. That is what the box should be made of instead of aluminum.
 
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