My First Performance Mods - Where to start and how far to go? - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Is it recommended that I follow a certain order when installing the following mods?
Ex.
1. AP (stage 1)
2. DP
3. CBE (nameless performance or q300)
4. Silencer delete
5. Stage 2

Any other relatively simple mods that come to mind without getting a protune?

Any advise on where to get these mods for a good price or are they all pretty standardly priced no matter where I buy from?

Kris - 2012 WRX Limited
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post #17 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 10:41 PM
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1. Silencer Delete
2. AP stage1
3. DP
4. Stage 2
5. CBE


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post #18 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 10:46 PM
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You don't have a silencer to delete.

Sway bars should come 1st.
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post #19 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You don't have a silencer to delete.

Sway bars should come 1st.
Was the silencer only on the older models? I did not know that, thanks

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post #20 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 10:57 PM
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Was the silencer only on the older models? I did not know that, thanks
Yes, but it's on STI models only now. Sorry OP I tried helping you get some noise without an intake purchase....


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post #21 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
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You don't have a silencer to delete.

Sway bars should come 1st.
The suspensions not THAT bad lol!


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post #22 of 53 Old 04-16-2013, 11:44 PM
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Say that after adding sway bars.
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post #23 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 05:40 AM
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Lol... believe me that's my next step for sure. That's usually one of the first things I do. The map from the factory had to go first though so stage 2 I went


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post #24 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 06:33 AM
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Then add some meaty tires

Paul
2002 WRX Sold
2007 WRX Sold
2007 STi totaled
2007 Foz XT sold
2007 MS3
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post #25 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Then add some meaty tires
Thinking about investing in some winter tires and get a pair of cheaper rims to powder coat? Still got the stockys on there but my plan for next winter is to get a second set of wheels to rotate in and out.

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post #26 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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If you're goal is 300 I'd do the below. First purchase MUST be your AP. flash to stage 1 immediately! Seeing 300 is the goal this is the best way to go for you with tuning IMO as long as you're not an aggressive driver. No shop, no tune, just an OTS (off the shelf) map provided by the AP that you can setup yourself. Next is your DP (down pipe) as this will give you the best bang for the buck by far! I'd recommend Catted over non-Catted and either Grimmspeed or Invidia for brand. Then you can do the silencer delete to your air box and get a K&N drop in air filter. I'd stay away from any intake purchase unless you get a protune...which i wouldnt recommend to you personally. The silencer delete and drop in filter will bring your engine bay to life and allow you to hear the intake, turbo, and exhaust a little better. Then flash to stage 2 and enjoy! These mods should put you right around 300 which is where you wanna be. Leave the up pipe alone as there's no need to change it at all in your case, and spend the remaining couple hundred on a TiC Super Shifter set. This mod, along with your stage 2 setup will make you a very happy Scoob


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Back to your original suggestion, wouldn't a stage 2 map, DP and CBE put me well over 300hp? Looking at the peak gains on the Cobb AP, 21% more hp would put me at 320ish plus whatever the gains would be from the DP. Im not complaining, just wanna make sure I got this right :thumbup:

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post #27 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 11:22 AM
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I'd say with the CBE your gonna be sitting around 310ish yes. But you can spend the $800+ from the CBE on some MUCH needed tranny and suspension mods, still have the AP and DP and take a very minor loss in the HP you would've gained from the CBE. Without the CBE you're probably gonna be sitting around 285ish. For that minimal loss I personally think your money is a lot better spent in other areas like the tranny or suspension. But again, if the CBE is something you want then roll with that too. But I'm just saying that IMO 25-30hp from a CBE is not worth $800+. Our cars are starving for a TiC Super Shifter set or some F/R sways and links. Now that there is money well spent...IMO


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post #28 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'd say with the CBE your gonna be sitting around 310ish yes. But you can spend the $800+ from the CBE on some MUCH needed tranny and suspension mods, still have the AP and DP and take a very minor loss in the HP you would've gained from the CBE. Without the CBE you're probably gonna be sitting around 285ish. For that minimal loss I personally think your money is a lot better spent in other areas like the tranny or suspension. But again, if the CBE is something you want then roll with that too.


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Alright I see where you are coming from. Maybe ill hold off on the CBE and see how the car sounds with the aftermarket DP and go ahead and look into the sway bars instead. On a side note, there are no drawbacks to putting in silicone hoses for looks and smoother airflow right? Id be cool to spice things up under the hood.

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post #29 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 12:24 PM
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Def ok to do and they're cheap enough to where it's not a big deal. Everyone's got pointless or 'personal' mods...I do myself. But there's just gotta be a big return on investment IMO with $800+ being thrown down. I look forward to seeing your build thread and pics


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post #30 of 53 Old 04-17-2013, 01:09 PM
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Stock mid pipe is good for up to approx 350 whp. You can get an axel back thru naneless for between 300-500 depending on what I add to it. I say get an axel back if your on a budget and put the mid pipe cash to a new dp. Cobb ap+axel back+catted dp for approx 1300. Not bad for stage 2 IMO. look on nasioc's classifieds for an unmarried ap. I no there are a couple naneless axel backs for sale and a dp. You're all set then my friend


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