Guide on Upgrading Car for Daily Driver(17' WRX) - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-06-2017, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Question Guide on Upgrading Car for Daily Driver(17' WRX)

Bought this lovely car over 3 months ago and I absolutely love it.
Unfortunately(fortunately?) I travel about 40~ miles total a day to and from work. About 40% of it is stop and go. For a better idea, it's from NJ to NY.

I've been doing a fair bit of research, and talked with my Subaru tech about his mods, and what he recommends. On top of that, this Subaru Service Center REALLY looks out for you; one guy came in with TGV/EGR deletes, EBCS, turboback, all of that, and the service center kept him under warranty. So I'm not afraid of doing a bit more on my car.

I have the ETS CB, Cobb Intake, and an AP.
I currently don't have any plans to race, nor take it to any races, so I'm looking for a more conservative build focused on reliability.
Also, take in mind my car-finesse isn't that great. I can do basics. My current setup to lift my car is two ramps, and two small backup jacks.

What I have in mind doing:
-All season tires/rims for 17' winter(wont be until later this year)
-TGV/EGR Deletes(Heard this was the biggest boost to HP relative to how much it costs)
-E-tune(Cobb Stage 1 93 tune runs too rich, I've gotten a few CEL codes from it, going to get it done ASAP)

So at this point, I'm hoping on getting the TGV/EGR done soon, so I can get an E-tune done. Protune will be down the road.

SO, with this, how conservative is this build LOL?
Take into consideration, there's also the:

-BOV/BPV
-TMIC or FMIC
-Charge Pipe
-J Pipe
-EBCS
-AOS

...The list goes on

My thinking is:
TGV/EGR Deletes > E-Tune -----(Wheels/Rims)----J-Pipe, Charge Pipe, TMIC, EBCS, AOS, and Protune.

I just want to know if my general direction is any good, or if it needs changing up. Maybe swap out the TMIC for an FMIC since I have the AOS bundled in?
I mean, I know if I want reliability I should just make my car full turboback and get a pro-tune and be done.

Any tips?
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-08-2017, 05:52 AM
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1st) tighten the nut behind the wheel
2nd) GET GOOD TIRES
3rd) read this: What To Do First

reliability 100% lies in how you drive and maintain your car. parts dont blow motors, people blow motors. 99% of subaru failures (yes even ringland failures) are all user error. it just hard to determine what user; builder, tuner or driver. its the internet. no one is gonna say "hey i lugged my motor and blew it up"... they are gonna say "stupid subaru blew a ringland. i was only doing 5th gear WOT pulls on the highway.........."
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-08-2017, 12:27 PM
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EGR/TGV deletes require a tune or you will get a CEL and driveability issues. An EBCS, and DP require a tune as well due to the nature of ECU and boost control. Also remember you have the new FA engine, things aren't the same compared to the EJ, mostly due to the Direct Injection and lack of MFI (port injection). This caused carbon buildup in the valves mostly due to emissions devices (EGR, PCV, Fuel EVAP systems) and the fact they don't have fuel washing that crap away over time means you will need more engine maintenance at higher mileage.

EGR deletes are more intricate than people may think initially, essentially they lean out the A/F ratio by recirculating exhaust gases back into the intake side for combustion, which a side affect is better MPGs which reduces emissions. TGVs are more of a flow restriction than a major power gain, in fact you will notice a drop in MPG and low end TQ with a TGV delete as you have more flow all around.

If you want better MPGs you need to get a map for economy, and learn to drive out of boost. That's the biggest way to improve MPGs, I love boost, but when my basemap determines if I get 15MPG vs 26-34MPG...

It's smart to have 2 maps, an eco map and a fun map but remember the fun map will shorten the life of your build vs the eco map (depending how the tuner decides to go about making it more fuel friendly).
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-08-2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Is tightening the nut behind the wheel actually a thing? Would I have to remove the wheel? I might do that when I get a set of new tires then.
Wheels have about 3.5k miles on them, and I don't think the stock ones are too bad, for now.

So the idea is tires, brakes, and suspension. What kind of suspension am I looking for?
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-09-2017, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
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Is tightening the nut behind the wheel actually a thing? Would I have to remove the wheel? I might do that when I get a set of new tires then.
Wheels have about 3.5k miles on them, and I don't think the stock ones are too bad, for now.

So the idea is tires, brakes, and suspension. What kind of suspension am I looking for?


Your the NUT.......behind the WHEEL
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-09-2017, 05:39 AM
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^ what he said. i dont mean like driving school for your license. i mean hit up a track and take a lesson or two on how to control your car. that doesnt mean you cant drive, im sure you're a good driver, but you dont know how your car performs and you should get to know its limits, aswell as your own. we know you are excited to unleash your new ride, we all are. but going #fullhotrod right out of the gate is going to end in disater.

as for suspension, hit up FEAL Suspension. their 441 Coilovers are fantastic. if you dont want coils, they also offer high performance struts and springs.

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post #7 of 9 Old 03-09-2017, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ohh, I understand now. I don't really get to push the car in an area like this, there are too many cars.

But that is a really sound idea; I've seen enough wreck videos so I try to be extra careful. My only gripe about this car is the Dunlop summer tires that it came with. They don't work in the snow AT all.

But I'm not too surprised that the best advice on here is mostly aimed towards the driver.

thanks
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-10-2017, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
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My only gripe about this car is the Dunlop summer tires that it came with. They don't work in the snow AT all.

But I'm not too surprised that the best advice on here is mostly aimed towards the driver.
Dude, don't be that idiot who drives on summer tires in the winter unless you can't afford even used winter tires. Summer compound is meant to work in temps above 55F, using them in conditions less than that and in slick weather is a sure fire way to total you new car.

As for the advise, it's just logical. Take two wrx, one stock vs built with 300whp. The stock one has winter tires and the 300whp one has OE summer tires, it's 30F out and the track is dry, tight and windy (aka lots of sharp corners). Which car do you think will win? Now take the same stock car but have the driver be a kid in college do 3 laps, now have that kid take a driving class and then do 3 more laps...which 3 laps do you think will have shorter lap times (shorter=faster)?

Visit the Nasioc Newbie FAQ before you decide on any parts to buy. Happy to help here, and nasioc members will bash you more than we do lol.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-11-2017, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojango View Post
But I'm not too surprised that the best advice on here is mostly aimed towards the driver.

thanks
you are welcome! you can't enjoy your car if its wrapped around a tree

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