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Buying a used WRX/STi ?

170K views 91 replies 37 participants last post by  Reilly M 
#1 · (Edited)
So you have decided to go out and purchase that sweet sweet WRX you've seen sitting on the car lot down the road. The price seems right, but it has a lot of miles on it. Well if that's the case then please sit back and read this before you go out and buy someone else's problems...

As with any used car common sense and a bit of knowledge go a long way and in the end can save you money, who doesn't want that. There are a few important things to look for when buying a used WRX. This is a small list of things to check for:

1) Does the car have service records and a carfax?

2) Check the oil on the dipstick to see if it's even at the right level. If the dipstick has a milky oil this is bad as the head gasket is blown, just walk away at that moment.

3) Walk around the car looking for misaligned panels and changes in paint brightness, usually this indicates damage and repair.

4) Check the trans fluid dipstick for discoloration and level.

5) Check the tires for wear. Also make sure they are all the same size and and have even tread wear, if not this indicates an alignment is needed.

6) Take a spark plug wrench with you and take out one of the plugs, you can do this somewhere away from the lot if needed.

7) Rent, borrow, buy a code reader to check for any codes that may be stored.

8) Take the car for a test drive to see if the car shifts okay, if not this could be expensive and this is more so on the older models.

9) Check the air filter.

10) Look for signs of upgrades, usually in the forum of exhaust, intake, etc.

11) Take someone with you that knows these cars well.

12) Ask a bunch of questions, if the dealer doesn't know the answer then talk him down in price, because you'll need the money later and you should get the best deal anyway.

13) Check the brakes while on your test drive, they should be firm but not jerky. If the pedal bounces up and down the rotors are warped easy fix, but pay less money.

14) Check the brake fluid level.

15) Check the clutch fluid level.

16) Check the power steering fluid level.

17) If possible check the timing belt, it's a few small bolts and you can see it. This is also expensive if it breaks.

18) Check to make sure the car has no leaks, this can be done after the test drive.

More than likely the car has had a rough life, so be prepared, especially if it's had more than 1 owner and has modifications. It may be shiny, but that shine will dull if the car is a lemon.

p.s. One more thing I wanna add. This may sound harsh of me, but it has to be said. These cars can get costly just in normal maintenance alone, so you have to ask yourself, can you afford to fix something if it breaks? Can you be without the car if you can't? If you modify the car save money in a slush fund for that, "OH S**T!!!" moment and trust me it will happen.

p.s.s. Also have some pictures of what the stock engine bay looks like and stock exhaust. Most importantly EDUCATE YOURSELF BEFORE BUYING!!!! That alone will save you money.

Added by Man Show:

Normal maintenance (aside from oil changes, roughly every 30k is a semi-major maintenance milestone where almost every fluid/filter/other miscellaneous parts should be drained/flushed/replaced): Subaru maintenance schedules and new car break-in period- 2000 through 2009, links for 2010, 2011...Subaru maintenance schedules and new car break-in period- 2000 through 2009, links for 2010, 2011...

Generally, I like to buy the best materials I can "reasonably" find/afford. I rationalize the additional cost of the good stuff by thinking about how much money I save in labor doing everything myself. Fortunately for me, I have accumulated a pretty decent set of basic hand tools w/ some extra gadgets and a nice floor jack/stands along with a set of 56" Race Ramps which makes certain jobs much easier. The internet is full of great write ups with pictures and videos to help you gain the knowledge and confidence to tackle just about any job.

30k maintenance: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f51/30k-maintenance-how-much-did-co-t-you-25604/30K Maintenance = How much did it co$t you?

60k maintenance:http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f75/60-000-mile-maintenance-28437/ 60,000 Mile Maintenance

90k maintenance: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f75/90-000-mile-maintenance-timing-belt-30429/90,000 Mile Maintenance & Timing Belt

Not everybody agrees with my oil change philosophy, but since mile 0, I have been changing my oil with synthetic (Redline or Royal Purple 5w30) every 3,000 miles and OEM oil filters. Every time I do that, it costs me about $50, but I also have a FuMoto oil drain valve which makes that job much easier

Roughly 5 months ago, my transmission failed because I was driving like an idiot and the shockloading sheared most of the teeth off of several of my gears. My car is in the shop right now waiting for a set of stock ratio Albins helical 1-5 gears which will set me back roughly $4,500 in parts alone (+ labor). That's one of the rare "oh crap" moments that we advise new WRX owners to save up for.

blew-my-07-trans-tonight

Pics of the carnage:IAG Performance / 2007 WRX Transmission J. Kimmel

I would consider myself somewhat of a Subaru enthusiast, so to me, this stuff isn't really anything out of the ordinary. I also apologize that I had too much coffee and I was bored this morning, but hopefully I have answered your question.

Also would like to add this post from turmic in here:

used-sti-buyers-guide
 
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#5 ·
Thanks you gentlemen. I try and help out when possible...That list isn't in order either, so I may fix that as well. It seems like a lot, but I see it that if your going to spend money you might as well get your moneys worth.
 
#6 ·
Great write up. I've got a few suggestions below.

How about turning the key to the "on" position to make sure that all the dashboard lights are functioning. I have a friend that bought a Mustang where the previous owner had removed the bulb from "Check Engine" light. Sneaky Sneaky.

Also, a compression and leak down test seems to be critical for these engines b/c they will run just fine with a cracked ringland. They will use a ton of oil, but it doesn't always manifest itself as smoke out the tail pipe b/c of the catalytic converters.

A good indicator that the car has been modified is if the turbo heat shield is still in place. Usually all the bolts break off and they won't fit over aftermarket downpipes so usually people just throw them away.
 
#7 ·
Great write up. I've got a few suggestions below.

How about turning the key to the "on" position to make sure that all the dashboard lights are functioning. I have a friend that bought a Mustang where the previous owner had removed the bulb from "Check Engine" light. Sneaky Sneaky.
That's what the code reader and test drive are for.;)

blk05WRX said:
Also, a compression and leak down test seems to be critical for these engines b/c they will run just fine with a cracked ringland. They will use a ton of oil, but it doesn't always manifest itself as smoke out the tail pipe b/c of the catalytic converters.
True, but I have always said that pulling the plug will tell you alot about how a car' engine is doing....;)

blk05WRX said:
A good indicator that the car has been modified is if the turbo heat shield is still in place. Usually all the bolts break off and they won't fit over aftermarket downpipes so usually people just throw them away.
That's why you take pictures of what the engine bay should look like. if the engine in the picture doesn't look like the one your buying it means something has been changed and/or modified.!Thumbs Up
 
#12 ·
Hello, I have been learning about WRX's here for awhile, but this is my first post.

Could you please elaborate on "These cars can get costly just in normal maintenance alone, so you have to ask yourself, can you afford to fix something if it breaks?"

What are you calling "normal maintenance" - oil changes and tuneups?

I expect to get a 2012 WRX after the holidays, what should I be prepared for as far as normal maintenance bills?
 
#14 ·
Could you please elaborate on "These cars can get costly just in normal maintenance alone, so you have to ask yourself, can you afford to fix something if it breaks?"

What are you calling "normal maintenance" - oil changes and tuneups?

I expect to get a 2012 WRX after the holidays, what should I be prepared for as far as normal maintenance bills?
Normal maintenance (aside from oil changes, roughly every 30k is a semi-major maintenance milestone where almost every fluid/filter/other miscellaneous parts should be drained/flushed/replaced): Subaru maintenance schedules and new car break-in period- 2000 through 2009, links for 2010, 2011...

Generally, I like to buy the best materials I can "reasonably" find/afford. I rationalize the additional cost of the good stuff by thinking about how much money I save in labor doing everything myself. Fortunately for me, I have accumulated a pretty decent set of basic hand tools w/ some extra gadgets and a nice floor jack/stands along with a set of 56" Race Ramps which makes certain jobs much easier. The internet is full of great writeups with pictures and videos to help you gain the knowledge and confidence to tackle just about any job.

30k maintenance: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f51/30k-maintenance-how-much-did-co-t-you-25604/

60k maintenance: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f75/60-000-mile-maintenance-28437/

90k maintenance: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f75/90-000-mile-maintenance-timing-belt-30429/

Not everybody agrees with my oil change philosophy, but since mile 0, I have been changing my oil with synthetic (Redline or Royal Purple 5w30) every 3,000 miles and OEM oil filters. Every time I do that, it costs me about $50, but I also have a FuMoto oil drain valve which makes that job much easier ;)

Roughly 5 months ago, my transmission failed because I was driving like an idiot and the shockloading sheared most of the teeth off of several of my gears. My car is in the shop right now waiting for a set of stock ratio Albins helical 1-5 gears which will set me back roughly $4,500 in parts alone (+ labor). That's one of the rare "oh crap" moments that we advise new WRX owners to save up for.

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f69/blew-my-07-trans-tonight-30828/

Pics of the carnage: IAG Performance / 2007 WRX Transmission J. Kimmel

I would consider myself somewhat of a Subaru enthusiast, so to me, this stuff isn't really anything out of the ordinary. I also apologize that I had too much coffee and I was bored this morning, but hopefully I have answered your question !Thumbs Up
 
#13 ·
With a newer model the maintenance isn't to bad because it's new and most things are covered under warranty. This was really for the older models, like say my '03, that have developed some miles and age on them. The you have suspension parts, transmission parts and all sorts of various things that will start to go bad. These add up quickly. I guess I should change the title to buying a used WRX/STi..
 
#15 ·
Hey, I'll sticky this but I'd like to see it cleaned up a bit. Take out the smileys and put in some better spacing. Basically make it look prettier. Also, I think it would be good to include the info man show just posted and the link to the iwsti forums. There's a lot of good info on that link too.

Also, you don't need to reserve a post for space. The spacing limit on this forum is very high. I deleted that post. If you need it back at some point I can restore it but I don't think you will.
 
#19 ·
You might also want to expand upon the tires part - the tread on all four tires needs to be within 1/32" to 2/32" of each other and they all need to be the exact same size, brand, and style so you don't risk damaging the differentials. If you have a flat tire and it's damaged beyond repair, you'll have to buy four brand new tires which will set you back several hundred dollars. That chunk of money should also be included in your "oh crap" or possibly "routine maintenance" fund.
 
#30 ·
The car was reconstructed it was previously wrecked I am purchasing it off a guy from Pittsburgh, Supposedly it had a built 2.5 in it and the current turbo setup is off a cummings turbo diesel. It's got 1000cc injectors and an upgraded fuel pump and supposedly manly rods and a grimmspeed intake. I just was looking for some help. Thanks

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#32 ·
Why would he mentioned upgraded rods and not pistons? Plus, why would you go through the trouble of making a cummins turbo compatiable on a subaru? That sounds like a hell of a lot of trouble for a turbo that is meant for something that has more cylinders and generates more exhaust pressure sooner. I guess you can take it for a test drive, but it sounds like a project that will be a money pit if the car falls apart.
 
#33 ·
Lots of people use them on DSM's they even have a special turbine housing made to fit the compressor and bolt up to the factory manifold. Won't take to much work if you went rotated, but then again what do I know....
 
#34 ·
I am one of those guys that never owned a DSM before becoming a subie fanatic. I had aircooled VWs and a couple ford products in different configurations before I came to the right side, lol. I just dont get with all the options out there now-a-days for any generation of these cars, to use something that was not intended for it. I mean you want rotated, pick a number, Im sure you can find about that many websites selling a rotated setup (within a reasonable number that is for you smarta$$es out there, lol). But like Kirt said, you want a project, sounds like the perfect one.
 
#35 ·
Well the Holsets that come on the Dodge Diesels is cheap and big. Getting it to mate to the down pipe and up pipe is just a matter of finding someone to weld it for you. Tuning on the other hand, well it's like any other big turboed Subaru...lag, lag, lag, lag, lag, lag, lag, BOOST, SHIFT!
 
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