when Replacing Brake Pads .. anything else?? (06 wrx) - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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#1 Old 03-03-2011, 09:50 PM
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when Replacing Brake Pads .. anything else?? (06 wrx)

I have a 06 wrx.. pretty sickkkkk right ..i know
but yo...
im looking to change the front Brake pads..
there very low at 45k miles.. no noise or anything yet, no rotor damage..

What is the process when changing the pads?
I can change them with no problem - but is there anything else I need to do?

Can I stay away from resurfacing the rotors and all that?
Do I have to change the brake lines?
Do I have to bleed the brakes/ brake fluid?

Not looking to know how to do it, just looking what else NEEDS to be done or can I just change the pads and thats its?

thanks all! appreciate it!
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#2 Old 03-04-2011, 10:01 AM
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Any time you change the pads or otherwise alter the system, it's necessary to bleed it. I bled/flushed my system using ATE Super Blue DOT4 fluid when I added my Goodridge SS lines at 30k and again when I changed from stock to Hawk HPS pads all around at 53k.

I did not resurface my rotors when I changed my brake pads at 53k miles (fronts had ~25% life left, rears ~50% left) because I didn't see or feel any deep gouges in any of the rotor surfaces and the brake pedal wasn't fluttering at all. Looking back, it probably would have been a good idea to have them all resurfaced just because it would have provided a fresh surface for the new pads to bite in to and it might prolong the life of the stock rotors, but I kept telling myself it didn't matter because the next time I serviced my brakes wouldn't be for a long time and by then, I'd probably want to replace the rotors with something cool (cross drilled and/or slotted... yeah I know).

You do not have to replace the brake lines if you're just replacing pads, but many people do them at the same time since you're disturbing the system and you'll have to bleed the brakes anyway. People upgrade to stainless steel brake lines because (1) they provide a slightly firmer pedal feel when braking, (2) aftermarket stainless steel lines are more durable than stock rubber lines which are prone to cracking over time - which isn't really a valid argument because the stock rubber lines will often outlast the life of the entire car, (3) it's cool to say you have stainless steel brake lines on your mod list, (4) if anybody looks that close at your wheel wells, they'll see something slightly shiney instead of something black, and (5) it's a relatively inexpensive mod at $100 +/-.

You probably already know this, but when you're finished, spray any surface that brake fluid might have contacted with a bottle of water and wipe it off really well with a clean rag because brake fluid is very corrosive and will damage any painted surface if left untouched. Also, spray the surfaces of your rotors with Brakleen if you happen to touch them. If you haven't already discovered Nitrile gloves, buy some - they're so much better (more durable) than Latex gloves and they'll keep your hands squeaky clean when doing a dirty job like messing with your brakes.

P.S. - Bleed order for the WRX is:

1. Front Right
2. Rear Left
3. Front Left
4. Rear Right

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#3 Old 03-04-2011, 11:53 AM
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^^ Nice write-up John

In addition:

Make sure to add the lube behind the shims.... They will get loud.

Paul
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#4 Old 03-04-2011, 12:43 PM
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I always turn the rotors when I change pads. Also, if you change rotors, you must change pads.

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#5 Old 03-04-2011, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
P.S. - Bleed order for the WRX is:

1. Front Right
2. Rear Left
3. Front Left
4. Rear Right
John, thanks a lot!
So even though I am just changing the front pads, I need to bleed the brakes for all 4? not just the 2?

thanks
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#6 Old 03-04-2011, 08:08 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
^^ Nice write-up John

In addition:

Make sure to add the lube behind the shims.... They will get loud.
Ditto to manshow

I've always thrown the shims in the garbage, along with the grease packets no problems.

I used to have my rotors turned (if there was enough left after track use) but after working at the shop, I now believe that replacing them is better. At least 60% of the cars that come in with turned rotors actually have warped rotors. Now maybe that's because the cheap brake job places aren't spec-ing them out correctly, and taking them down too much, and perhaps they're more prone to warping here in the cold and hilly driving that most do in Colo. My feeling is that unless you're changing pad compounds there is no reason to re-surface. If they're worn, grooved and have a deep lip, toss 'em. They're not that expensive (unless you have an STI)

The brakes on the '06 have the spring clips (porsche style) so that you can remove the pads without moving the calipers, but you'll need the right tool to open the calipers up to accommodate the new, thicker pads. If your master cylinder is full, remember to siphon out a smidgen of fluid so it doesn't overflow when you open the calipers.

Yes, you should bleed all four corners. The cross-corner bleed sequence is necessary because of the ABS set-up.

What kind of pads are you putting on ?
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#7 Old 03-05-2011, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonracer View Post
The brakes on the '06 have the spring clips (porsche style) so that you can remove the pads without moving the calipers, but you'll need the right tool to open the calipers up to accommodate the new, thicker pads. If your master cylinder is full, remember to siphon out a smidgen of fluid so it doesn't overflow when you open the calipers.
Thanks guys..

Even though the stock 06/07 brakes have the spring clips, I found it easiest to remove the entire caliper assemblies from the rotors using the bolts (can't remember the sizes... 12 and 14 mm seem to be ringing a bell) facing toward the car because I could move them around and really take a good look at them and see how everything worked. I also found it relatively easy to push the pistons all the way back in using just my fingers and brute strength - no special tools required, although a C-clamp and rag to protect the paint would probably work if you can't get them in with just your hands. Good call on siphoning a smidge of brake fluid out of the reservoir before you push the pistons back in though - I didn't do that when I pushed the first one and I made a bit of a mess

Here's another hint: the pistons are much easier to push back in the calipers with the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. With the cap on, the fluid has nowhere to go when you push the pistons in... so leave it off, take out a little fluid first, and keep a close eye on it throughout the job. You would think that part would be obvious, but it could easily be overlooked.

FWIW, I cleaned my shims really well and then lubed them up generously.

Good luck!

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#8 Old 04-06-2011, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man show View Post
P.S. - Bleed order for the WRX is:

1. Front Right
2. Rear Left
3. Front Left
4. Rear Right
I've heard that you want to start furthest away from the master cylinder and get closer. i.e.:

1. Rear Right
2. Rear Left
3. Front Right
4. Front Left

But i haven't heard about using a different system because of ABS. Can someone clarify which is the best method, please? Thanks.
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#9 Old 04-06-2011, 06:03 PM
 
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Manshow is absolutely correct. Check the factory service manual if you don't trust his order.
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#10 Old 04-07-2011, 01:13 AM
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My method is the factory service manual method

Don't worry, I wondered the same thing when I first saw that seemingly unusual bleed order.

John
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