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2005 brake pads?

6K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Fidrat 
#1 ·
Hello, ever since I got my wrx 2 years ago I have noticed that the braking has been terrible. It's a 2005 wrx, all I know about the brakes is that when I got it the pads were not oem pads, they were duralast (I beleive they said premium or plus). They never made any noise or seemed "worn out" (college educated and working on cars for years I can feel when it's time for new brakes) I'm looking for some new pads now as it's about that time. I'm wanting something that will perform well and last a while. I was looking at the hawk hp plus pads, but they are over $100 a pair. I want something that is going to STOP and PERFORM. So in the near future I will be putting on new rotors, pads, fluid, and lube on all moving parts and contact points.

I'm just wanting to get in the car when I'm done, take off, and when I stop say "holy shit"

The brakes now seem "blah".

I see some people recommend the hawk hps pads but then I read reviews saying that it's a noticeable difference but not anything crazy, then I see people
with the hp plus pads that say they can stop on a dime "given good traction".

I'm just wondering if there's a good performance brake pad that is comparable to the hawk hp plus that maybe won't cost $250 just for pads

I am not concerned about noise at all, everything about my car is so loud that I don't think brakes will matter, also not too concerned about dust, my wheels are black. As long as the pads last and work very well I'll be happy

I'll spend the $100 per pair of I have to but different options would be sweet.

Happy turkey day
Nate
 
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#2 ·
Honestly the best decision I've made for my WRX was the master cylinder brace. The improvment was better than most big brake kits I've worked with.

If youve got 2 years on your wrx and you are still trusting the fluids that were there when you got the car thats the first thing I would swap. Motul makes some great fluids and they aren't quite as hydroscopic as many of the race fluids. I usually swap the fluids annually.

As for pads and rotors, I have always liked the idea of a matched set, Im sure it doesnt really matter but I like the idea of having the same brand. Something in the back of my head says that they used their brand rotors to test their brand of pads and they worked good together. As for a whole Kit stoptech makes a pad/rotor/lines setup for around $500. Ive used their pads/rotors in the past with solid results. They are way quiet,which is important for me, DD makes the faintest out of place noise on the highway and it drives me nuts : ( They are also relativly clean as far as brakes go, the dust rolls off on top of the wash water rather than sticking to the wheels like some composites.

Hawks are a bit overpriced in my opinion, they have similar spec sheets to stoptech pads but they are 2 times the price. I dont usually reccommend taking the inexpensive option when it comes to slowing down but I do like stoptech.


IMO
1. Swap out the 2 year old fluids for fresh motul fluid
2. Look into a master cylinder brace. I dont know if its as needed on the 05 but it was night and day on my 13
3. Swap pads and rotors for preferable the same brand parts
4. If you have spare cash SS lines are never a bad investment.

Hope that helps
 
#4 ·
#6 ·
My 2007 WRX has the stock 4 pot front and 2 pot rear calipers. Besides that, I'm running ATE Super Blue fluid, Hawk HPS pads, DBA 4000 T-Slot rotors, and Goodridge SS lines all around - no master cylinder brace (although that might be one of my next mods). I'm actually on my second set of HPS pads now. I don't track my car, but I've been pretty happy with this setup on the street - decent pedal feel and stopping power, no need to warm them up, quiet, and a reasonable amount of dust (even with the slotted rotors). I wouldn't trust my setup on a track though - Hawk HPS pads and stock diameter rotors weren't designed for repeated hard braking and they'd probably fail after a lap or two.

If you want a very noticeable difference from what you have now, search NASIOC for a set of used 2006/2007 4/2 pot WRX calipers. Stainless steel lines will make a nice difference in pedal feel for you too and improve durability and safety (rubber lines can crack and fail over time). Of course, then you'd be doing a fluid change. As far as rotors, blanks are just fine. If you must get something that looks cool, go with slotted. Avoid drilled rotors since they are likely to crack. If you have any money left over, get a master cylinder brace. Pads are mainly personal preference - do some research and figure that one out for yourself based on your driving style.
 
#8 ·
I can tell you the part numbers I use:
Hawk HPS Front (HB178F)
Hawk HPS Rear (HB179F)
DBA 4000 T-Slot Front (4650S)
DBA 4000 T-Slot Rear (4653S)

I know they work with my stock 17x7 +55 wheels.

But as far as fitment on your car, you'll have to do a little research :)
 
#9 ·
Thanks, I think I'm stuck with my stock sized disks...Unless the bigger calipers fit the stock sized disks.:crying: I will be looking into this further.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Front Rotors are the same but pads and rear rotors are different. You would also need a kartboy adapter in the rear. Mine fit snugly inside some 16x6 steel wheels from a 2008 2.5i impreza but Im not sure about fitment with your particular wheels. Keith is in the process of fitting some on his bugeye so, he should be able to shed some light.
 
#15 ·
I was looking for a set of 06-07 calipers and I ran into this...

There's a reason why these calipers are factory equipment on the 2006-2007 model year WRX and many European models; they're awesome! These calipers feature a 4-pot front / 2-pot rear design for improved clamping force. For you autocross and track drivers, these calipers also have removable pad clips/pins, so you can change pads without taking the caliper off. Minimum wheel size of 16x7 is required (stock WRX is 16x6.5). This kit is a direct replacement for 06-07 WRXs.

I realize sellers are often wrong. So what's the deal? Will they fit under my stock 16's or not. I'd really like to keep my skinny stock 16's to cut through the snow.

Now I'm hearing I need a "special rear rotor" to get the handbrake hardware to fit. What's the REAL story?
 
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