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turbo choices for the 08 wrx sedan

32K views 80 replies 14 participants last post by  turmic 
#1 ·
i'm stuck with 3 choices on which turbo to use. currently i have a stock tmic, 3" turbo back catless exhaust, cobb stage 2 map. next on my list is injectors, pump, turbo and CAI. these are what i've found and are listed as follows:

VF52 Turbocharger Combo 2 $1475

Deatschwerks Top Feed 750cc Injectors w/ Walbro Pump and Tomioka TD05-18G Turbo $1400

Deatschwerks Top Feed 750cc Injectors w/ Walbro pump and Tomioka TD05-20G Turbo $1650

vf52 claims 320whp if used with 650cc and protune
TD05-18g claims up to 350whp
TD05-20g claims up to 400hp

is anyone running the vf52 with 750 injectors? Or any of the other mentioned turbos? what whp are you seeing?

My aim is low to mid 300whp range without having to max the turbo on boost, leave some room to grow if the occasion calls for it. i might just grab the injectors and pump first but am still on the fence on which turbo to use. i haven't heard about tomioka, but they are within my budget, and er'body knows the vf52. i'll still keep searching the forums for answers to my questions but look forward to yalls input. thanks!
 
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#2 ·
I'm running the Tommy yoka 20g right now with 850cc's and I'm seeing around 380whp on E85 and 350whp on pump, on a mustang dyno. Ive only been running it for a few months and so far I like it. I was running a AVO 380 before the 20g and it seems like the 20g hits harder, but I think that's because it doesnt come on as smooth as the AVO so it feels like more of a kick.
 
#3 ·
im running a vf52 and pushing almost 340-350whp on a average to low reading dynojet on stock injectors. there also only at 94%. some people run 104% and if i did id have even more HP.

im not sure of my HP right now because last dyno i was 330hp 360tq and now i have a 3" inlet, EL headers, TGV deletes, air pump delete, parallel fuel lines etc that im tuned for but didnt get on a dyno. id hope with all that id gain at least 10-20hp over the 330.

your list needs to also include a 3 port boost controller, an aftermart intercooler and BPV!

no idea about Tomioka, if i havent heard of it i personally wouldnt use it!

again you dont need injectors with a vf52 unless thats all your gonna do. see the more parts you use like TGV deletes, EWG, EL headers etc you make the motor and turbo work less so you dont need as much fuel. if you wanted to match my numbers with just a VF52 your gonna have to run A LOT more boost to catch me and that would require bigger injectors. just depends how you want to do it. big and easy or little and harder.

if you want a budget turbo to go big and easy look at BNR i think on Nasioc that modifies turbos to a 18 or 20g and Map performance i think that makes billet wheels like a 20g and both are cheap. both are on Nasico, just need to find them.
 
#9 ·
im running a vf52 and pushing almost 340-350whp on a average to low reading dynojet on stock injectors. there also only at 94%. some people run 104% and if i did id have even more HP.
Haha, no you're not. The 330 you got before shows that you're on a high reading dyno (which is what Dynojets are). That turbo won't even hit those numbers on E85 on an average/low ready dyno. And nor would your stock injectors support that.

i've had my eye on this turbo ever since i first laid eyes on it "ATP Bolt on Externally Gated GT3071R Turbocharger"... but it looks like with my current budget, i will go with the injectors, pump, and fmic... since the fmic will give me more options of turbos...

any thoughts or comments on the above stated turbo?
What engine and transmission build did you have in mind?

what would i have to do to run the gt30r? couldnt i just run low boost on it to keep my motor from popping?
Then why not run something that spools faster if you're not using it to it's potential?
 
#4 ·
i've had my eye on this turbo ever since i first laid eyes on it "ATP Bolt on Externally Gated GT3071R Turbocharger"... but it looks like with my current budget, i will go with the injectors, pump, and fmic... since the fmic will give me more options of turbos...

any thoughts or comments on the above stated turbo?
 
#5 ·
big ass turbo! lags gonna suck and more boost to spool it up will be to much for your stock motor. you'd save not needing a UP with EWG flange. pretty neat idea! i gotta see it on a car though.

i just looked on my car. that really is a bad ass idea. the WG would be right there and so easy to work on. the normal place right now sucks ass to get to and take hours to get at with the V-bands.
 
#7 ·
Tomioka racing has only been around since 2006, they started making ramps for lowered cars and from there went to making turbos headers and everything else for tuner cars. They do extencive R & D on all their products, at least that's what I have heard. I have talked to several good tuners that say they would recommend them and have had no problems tuning and making good power with their turbos. They are defenatly not a Ebay or off brand turbo. Just because somebody hasn't heard of them doesnt make them bad, believe me I don't put nothing knock off, EBay, or homemade garbage on my baby.
 
#8 ·
Dom 1.5XT-R ball bearing for stock internals, spool by 3300 and breathes like a 20xt, amazing turbo Dom 3 for forged internals.
340 on stock injectors, so running premium? Seems like a stretch. What dyno is that taken on I 'was' running the vf52 at 21lbs on e85 (30deg timing up top) and seeing about 326 on mustang, thats with 1000cc injectors and a 255 with almost full stage 4 mods, and thats HOURS of tuning work.
I went to a TD-06 20g for a stint, and couldn't stand the lag. The 1.5XT-R flows better and spools almost like the VF-52.
Problem I see with your injector logic is that you can do all those mod's but it's not necessarily to "make your motor and turbo work less", it's "SO, you can make your motor and turbo work harder efficiently" The bottom line is more power requires more gas/air, even if you do a TGV delete, that simply allows you to get more Air which implies more air fuel into the motor at the same required boost, which would require more fuel. The lightweight crank, I would agree gets you more power to the wheels, but not 30 more than what others claim on a premium tune with stock injectors. EL Headers might net you a few hp with similar air fuel by "letting it breathe" but again, this is more about supporting more air fuel, again requiring more fuel. Not trying to flame, but I wanted to try to understand what you are saying, as I feel it may point people in the wrong direction.
Bottom line, if you are going to run a big turbo, you are probably going to run meth/E85 with "HAS" to have bigger injectors, you will smoke your motor from leaning out up top if you don't.
Out of the three choices you list, I would run the VF52, it is a very nice turbo for a stock motor. The spool vs flow is pretty hard to beat in a 2.5, the Dom 1.5 X-TR is 1600 by itself, you can get away with a stage 2 tune on the VF52 on stock injectors, they will be working though. Realistically expect about 290-310 on a Mustang dyno on a premium (no meth) tune.
-Carl
 
#10 ·
Space your sentences out and use periods, very hard to follow.

First I am on 93 gas. Second the dyno is a dynojet that reads about 230hp 240tq bone stock for my car. What does your mustang read for your car stock?

I have to say your logic is wrong. Blow through a straw and try to fill a ballon. If you wanted to put say 10 pounds of air into it in 10 seconds you'd need xxx amount of lung power. If you used your mouth which is a way large hole you could put the same air in the same amount of time but way less effort. Freeing the air flow paths on a motor like tgv deletes and headers makes everything less stressful. It's not that your gaining HP but your freeing it up. Same goes for if your wheels were made of solid gold and were 100lbs each. Put on 15lbs light racing wheels and you'll see power raise even though you didn't change the tune. Having the motor work less means you can increase other things to make power. Not everything is air and fuel. Less stress means less heat also. Less heat is power. Less heat is also more timing which is more power. No fuel had to be added for those gains because a more efficient better flowing motor is a plus.

I have documented every tune and dyno I've done. I think 230hp 240tq is right on par for a normal reading. Any higher or lower and it's just the dyno being manipulated incorrectly.
 
#14 ·
Blow through a straw and try to fill a ballon. If you wanted to put say 10 pounds of air into it in 10 seconds you'd need xxx amount of lung power. If you used your mouth which is a way large hole you could put the same air in the same amount of time but way less effort.
So what you are saying is that he is full of hot air????:D:D:D I kid, I kid...

OP: Realistically the turbo you use depends on your choice of what you're going to want from the car. Drag racing, Auto x, Daily driver, rally. etc. These things will impact what turbo you should use. Also ask your tuner what he suggests for your ultimate goal, everyone has different goals in mind..!Thumbs Up
 
#11 ·
I was going to reply, but I don't think I need to. If someone needs some clarification I am more than willing to help. I believe anyone that has spent hours and hours on cars will be able to see what's going on here.
As for the dyno statement, if you run your car next to an e85 tuned car putting out 326 on a Mustang I promise you will think more than manipulation is in effect.
And stock is about 214 on a Mustang which is very near what it should be considering 265ish losing 20ish% to the wheels = 212.
-Carl
 
#13 ·
And stock is about 214 on a Mustang which is very near what it should be considering 265ish losing 20ish% to the wheels = 212.
-Carl
very good point although i believe along with 1000 others, subi on purpose lowers the wrx number so that it doesnt hurt STI sales.

i mean look at the numbers 1. the wrx runs more compression. 2. wrx only runs .5 psi lower and the turbos are the same size. 3. wrx is 220lbs lighter and its all in the drive train which is less Drive Train Loss. 4. has a better cooler composite intake manifold. 5. not sure on wheel weight for STI but the 17" tires are lighter=less DTL.

theres no way the STI has 40 more HP just from .5 psi and dual AVCS and if it does with both motors out of the car, it certainly doesnt when there put back in and the sti has to push all that extra weight.

whos right? who knows! maybe the sti only has 265 or maybe they both have 305.
 
#15 ·
Dual AVCS is actually a pretty good benefit over Single Cam AVCS. Dual AVCS can be manipulated to make the same power a mild cam upgrade would do to regular AVCS.
 
#16 ·
got a lil off topic... lots of good info though! but to try and steer back to what im asking is what of the three choices would be the best for the money with the mods i currently have?:beatentod

currently have stock tmic, 3" turbo back catless exhaust, cobb stage 2 map. next on my list is injectors, pump, turbo and CAI. these are what i've found and are listed as follows:

VF52 Turbocharger 750cc w/ walbro pump $1475

Deatschwerks Top Feed 750cc Injectors w/ Walbro Pump and Tomioka TD05-18G Turbo $1400

Deatschwerks Top Feed 750cc Injectors w/ Walbro pump and Tomioka TD05-20G Turbo $1650

vf52 claims 320whp if used with 650cc and protune
TD05-18g claims up to 350whp
TD05-20g claims up to 400hp

is anyone running the vf52 with 750 injectors? Or any of the other mentioned turbos? what whp are you seeing?

My aim is low to mid 300whp range without having to max the turbo on boost, leave some room to grow!
 
#19 ·
My aim is low to mid 300whp range without having to max the turbo on boost, leave some room to grow


If I run only 18psi I'm putting down around 325whp on pump and 365whp on E85, if you go to cobbs website you can find my 18psi dyno plots in surgelines database. So I'd say that would be exactly what you are looking for.!Thumbs Up
 
#20 ·
I personally push the evo3 16G with Meth/e85

You start getting into the bigger GT's and 20 g's you start to lose your bottom end where it's the most fun.

Although, the HTA's feedback is nice as well.
 
#22 ·
getting into the bigger GT's and 20 g's you start to lose your bottom end where it's the most fun.
wouldnt going to a bigger turbo improve the bottom end over stock? only racing here is str8 line 1/4 mile.

i talked with josh from import image, he suggested the AMR. The cxr500 price sitting at $1400. then theres the tomioka 20g sitting at $1150

so i've tossed out the vf52 and tomioka 18g.

cxr500 claims 350whp-430whp and stock location bolt on w 1yr wrnty

tomioka claims 400hp and stock location bolt on no specified wrnty

i dont mind spending the extra 200 for some good quality. so looks like amr might be the way to go. !Thumbs Up

so should i just forget the 750 injectors and go 1000?

i will be getting either a pro tune or temp e-tune once i install this.

side note: anyone hear of camtuning?
 
#21 ·
Dom 1.5xt-r... My tuner back in utah just put one on his 06 STi and it's making 400 on E85 ON AIRBOY. For instance, I'm hoping I can hit 330 on airboy on E85 on my VF52 (made 270 on 91, 300 on 93, about 200 stock).

That turbo is proving to be almost the perfect stock location bb turbo if you don't care about too much top end.
 
#30 ·
If you are going for a Turbo that will lay down 320whp and "have room to grow", you really only have one viable option, and that is the 20g. If you are going to be putting forged internals, you could even argue that is on the small side. It's tough to put a turbo in a car that is at it's peak in completely different layouts, stage 2 - stage 5 (which if you put internals + supporting mods is about where you'd be) is completely different. A 20g fits the bill pretty well. Slower spool, but more on top. The 18 and VF52 would run outta breath.
 
#31 ·
Hehe you guys are fighting like brothers over who is making the most power...Who cares as long as your happy with the car and it runs as you like...Don't make me post my dyno sheet and make you all cringe....:D
 
#43 ·
brfatal and synolimit, Listen to me I am father:D...Seriously that is the truth cause some machine told me so....hehe You guys just need to step back take breather and understand that numbers are just that, numbers. I maybe hitting 340whp I may not. Does it matter if I am, nope. Do I have a big unit, possibly, does it matter nope. Could I lose 200lbs, okay wait that's not right, could I remove 200lbs from my car, possibly, will I, nope. You guys are bickering over something that doesn't matter in the end. Just enjoy your cars and be happy with what each other does. Now think about what you've done and go to your rooms. I'll let you know when supper is ready...:p
 
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