Top beginning mods to do - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-10-2016, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Top beginning mods to do

So I just got the 2015 wrx and was wondering what would be the best mods to start out with?
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post #2 of 19 Old 04-10-2016, 07:27 PM
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driving school

cobb AP
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-11-2016, 05:42 AM
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driving school
+1

before you start ANYTHING, tighten the nut behind the wheel.

then TIRES

then Cobb Accessport.

then look at the cobb maps thoroughly on their website and see what you want to achieve then buy the parts according to whatever cobb map you want to run.

then get a protune.
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Last edited by titter; 04-11-2016 at 09:30 AM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-11-2016, 08:13 PM
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The tires on the 15-16 WRX are fine... for a change.

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post #5 of 19 Old 04-12-2016, 05:35 AM
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there is nothing "fine" about stock tires.

but since you own a 15/16... i'll take your word for it

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post #6 of 19 Old 04-12-2016, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titter View Post
then Cobb Accessport.

then look at the cobb maps thoroughly on their website and see what you want to achieve then buy the parts according to whatever cobb map you want to run.

then get a protune.
If you are recommending a protune then it doesn't matter if the parts match the OTS maps or not

A full exhaust system has always been the best bang for your buck with subarus. Should you do this then the next best bang for your buck would be a protune like titter suggested. I don't know about the 15/16 though.

Getting a AccessPort IMO is a really good idea just for the fact you can log an check all of the readiness monitors and vitals on the go.

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post #7 of 19 Old 04-12-2016, 09:23 AM
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Suspension, Braking then Power.

The 15-16 also has some crazy thermal management issues that should be sorted out before you go trying to make more power. An oil cooler is a great start as is a performance radiator.

Also sorting out the nut between the wheel and the seat is vital. treat yourself to a high performance driving course and get your head screwed on straight, Find the end of your cars chain then go for more.
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post #8 of 19 Old 04-12-2016, 02:05 PM
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you can get protuned through the cobb accessport. its usually recommended to get protuned when your all done modding. regardless of your engine management.

also this way he can buy parts slowly over time and tune them with the accessport and then get a protune when he feels hes got enough bolt-ons

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Last edited by titter; 04-12-2016 at 03:21 PM.
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post #9 of 19 Old 04-17-2016, 06:23 PM
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I agree with titter. I recently started modding my 08 wrx and started with the cobb sf intake and the accessport and it really is a good route to go. the amount of gauges the accessport allows you to monitor is very helpful (and there are no wires or tubes to squeeze through the dash) and if you ever have any questions about what your car is doing you can perform a datalog and send it to cobb and they will analyze your data and tell you exactly what your car is or isnt doing right. They've helped me with a few overboosting problems already. But let it be known that swapping a cobb downpipe for an invidia downpipe will cause your car to overboost even on the lwg maps (coming from experience ) The maps can be easily downloaded from their site for free and flashed all in a matter of a half hour. I will definitely recommend you stick to what cobb has listed for each stage, but if you like to live dangerously and go with a different brand of perfomance part DO NOT run it like a race car until you get it tuned by a cobb protuner (usually around 400 through the accessport depending on where you live).

As for handling and braking experience I would definitely recommend getting a set of drop springs or heavier sway bars (or both) just to limit squat and body roll when you get happy with the america pedal. My car tends to dart when moderately braking at speeds over 100 which is deadly if you arent on a 3 lane highway. As for brake components I swapped to a set of slotted rotors and platimum grade pads and put a master cylinder brace on it (as my body style scoobie is known for firewall flex) and the difference was amazing. the braking power is great but if you feel the need to go 4pot with steel lines nobody would stop you, plus they look better than the stock calipers IMO.

And to backup what everyone else is saying the driver needs to know its cars limits whether its stock or modded. Luckily you can't pull a mustang and get lost in a burnout (yet). And if this is your first standard sports car I wouldn't even attempt to go stage 2 until you've had some seat time to get the hang of things. even though its awd I've seen people get caught in the moment and end up kissing the curb.

Get an accessport an the sf intake WITH THE BOX and start there. you won't get much performance out of the intake BUT it will make cool turbo noises plus the box looks really clean under the hood. The intake is somewhat tricky to assemble but cobb makes a video to follow along.
Hope this helps and good luck
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post #10 of 19 Old 05-17-2016, 12:45 PM
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Tighten Nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by titter View Post
+1

before you start ANYTHING, tighten the nut behind the wheel.

then TIRES

then Cobb Accessport.

then look at the cobb maps thoroughly on their website and see what you want to achieve then buy the parts according to whatever cobb map you want to run.

then get a protune.
What do you mean tighten the nut behind the wheel
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-17-2016, 12:56 PM
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in other words improve yourself as a driver

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post #12 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 10:45 AM
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My route for upgrades was:

Intake & Air box (cobb) + v3 AP
Cobb Downpipe
Invidia q300 quad tip catback

And this is where i sit now, has been a good route notice improvement in the cars response and power with each mod for sure (maybe not the intake but since it was pair with the AP it was the biggest gain so far).

As for everyone saying the AP makes for a good monitor it dosnt. its actually a very bad way to monitor alot of the things is claims to monitor.

For example the Air / fuel monitor...You dont have a wideband installed in the car so wheres it getting its info from? a standard downstream O2 sensor that isnt equipped to tell you specific numbers about the amount of oxygen, just is there is oxygen or isnt there, based on electronic signals.

Same with the boost, Did you tap into your vac system and run a line to your AP? i didnt so where is it getting this info from? the ECU that just digitally produces a number based on electronic signals.

These are generalized numbers, this is not an end all monitor, If you gonna drop a bunch of power and 50%+ more boost into your stock motor dont trust the AP as a gauge.
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hempy View Post
My route for upgrades was:

Intake & Air box (cobb) + v3 AP
Cobb Downpipe
Invidia q300 quad tip catback

And this is where i sit now, has been a good route notice improvement in the cars response and power with each mod for sure (maybe not the intake but since it was pair with the AP it was the biggest gain so far).

As for everyone saying the AP makes for a good monitor it dosnt. its actually a very bad way to monitor alot of the things is claims to monitor.

For example the Air / fuel monitor...You dont have a wideband installed in the car so wheres it getting its info from? a standard downstream O2 sensor that isnt equipped to tell you specific numbers about the amount of oxygen, just is there is oxygen or isnt there, based on electronic signals.

Same with the boost, Did you tap into your vac system and run a line to your AP? i didnt so where is it getting this info from? the ECU that just digitally produces a number based on electronic signals.

These are generalized numbers, this is not an end all monitor, If you gonna drop a bunch of power and 50%+ more boost into your stock motor dont trust the AP as a gauge.
I don't know where your knowledge of the AP comes from but my wideband only shows a .1 difference from my onboard narrow band o2. The boost comes from the MAP sensor which is also very close to exact for me and I am far past stock. Go down all the monitors it shows you and then look at how much it would cost not only in gauges but sensors and pods to put those gauges. The AP is a very useful tool to help monitor your car for a fraction of the cost for the gauges, being able to check codes, switch maps, log and to modify a log list of other things.

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post #14 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMNZ View Post
I don't know where your knowledge of the AP comes from but my wideband only shows a .1 difference from my onboard narrow band o2. The boost comes from the MAP sensor which is also very close to exact for me and I am far past stock. Go down all the monitors it shows you and then look at how much it would cost not only in gauges but sensors and pods to put those gauges. The AP is a very useful tool to help monitor your car for a fraction of the cost for the gauges, being able to check codes, switch maps, log and to modify a log list of other things.
I use the AP daily...Not for a monitor as its again a digital signal not built of a WIDEband O2 but a Narrowband O2. This knowledge came from the person who tuned my car and cobb its self when i emailed to ask why my guages had discrepancies, also if you do a quick google search its pretty much everywhere. But like i said if its a modified car with minimal tuning needed not an issue (e.g exhuast and intake), but if your heavily modding your motor your dumb for trusting a digital sensor not built for those functions simple as that.

"Finally got around to collecting a bunch of data that illustrates how inaccurate the stock narrow band O2 sensor is. I did this for n00bs who don't know any better"

link to the rest of the article.

Cobb Accesstuner Stock Narrow Band O2 vs. LC-1 Wideband O2: Lots of Data - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com


you can google each sensor the ap runs separate and they are all just as bad because the obd2 isnt built to read the information from those sensor they way its being displayed to you. (e.g Narrowband is designed to read stoichiometric, and uses electrical impulses +/- to say to much or to little Oxygen thats it, Not a tuning tool)
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 02:56 PM
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correct when talking about wideband an narrow or actual boost vs MAP sensor boost. Hence why I have a wideband o2 and a boost gauge for monitoring as when tuning you want to be sure....

I don't think I said you should use the AP's monitors to tune. But your right sense those 2 aren't the best then the rest must be too far off to use. I guess you have a better way of watching feedback knock, fine knock learning, coolant temp, DAM, AFR correction... should I go on? Besides the 2 you mentioned there are still a long list of monitors that are needed and a useful way of checking the health of your engine.

I could go on... but to go any further into this is a waste of time. If you believe the AP is not a good monitoring tool you should sell it to someone. Its not the AP is the on board ECU an sensors that are limited which is the issue.

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