Synapse fitment on 2010 sucks! - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-17-2010, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Synapse fitment on 2010 sucks!

I have a synapse BOV from my old car that I had planned to use on my new wrx. I ordered the flange that is supposed to work with our cars and it has a round o-ring seal, our cars have a diamond shaped sealing surface. I put in on anyway and not so much to my suprise it ran like total garbage. It may or may not have been leaking but the added vacuum line volume that was tapped into the boost signal from the compressor also messed with the boost control. I promptly removed it and put the stock unit back in, I left boost connections as is except I capped the on that went to the boost connection for the BOV. I'm having my friend machine me a new mounting plate for the BOV that uses the factor BOV sealing gasket, and once it's done I'll give it another try before abandoning the project.

For those of you that are not familar with the synapse BOV it has 3 connections 2 vac, 1 boost. The boost signal is required for fast opening of the valve. Here's how the compressor signal is currently connected:

From turbo compressor to T fitting. One connection to the wastegate line (currently capped about 5" from the T), the other goes to a vac line with a restricter pill installed. From the restricter pill line to the T for the WG solenoid. One connection to the solenoid, the other goes to a line with another pill installed and to the wastegate actuator.

My WGDC is now really low 25%ish once the ecu kicks in and starts correcting the boost level back down to 14psi. I feel like removing the pill from the WG solenoid T to the acutator would help decrease the spiking I am having, but I hesitate to mess with it.

So now I find myself having to alter my WGDC table to fix the overboosting that I am having now.
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-17-2010, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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here is a video of the suggested install. Note the shape of the sealing surfaces on both the intercooler and the synapse flange.


here is the adpater plate in process

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post #3 of 8 Old 05-17-2010, 10:11 PM
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i like the innovation on this one. way to not wait around for a solution and come up with a not ghetto rigged one on your own. one question though: is that adapter being cnc'd or is it being done on a manual mill?
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-18-2010, 05:39 PM
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It'll run like garbage with the new flange too. You don't need a BOV.

Unless your building something out of the ordinary.

Brad

AEM CAI, Perrin ELH wrapped, Catted Downpipe, Stage II XPT tune, K4RT30Y STS, lip, shark fin
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-18-2010, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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It is being done my my friend on his manual mill. I'm ok with some milling, but figuring out radius' is out of my league for now.

I put all of the WG lines back to stock and the boost control is happy again. I'm 100% certain that was the main reason the car was running poorly. The stock EWDC table was having to hunt to far and causing boost fluctuations until it settled in.

I am going to proceed on and give it another try but I will get my boost signal elsewhere so it doesn't affect the EWG. Despite what everyone says about the stock BOVs I know the synapse is better. I've run it before on my last car and it made a huge improvement over what it replaced. I could be wrong, and if I am I'll admit it, but I"m gonna at least try it out.

I decided that instead of using this plate (pictured above) as an adapter that I'm just going to machine the cylindrical part that goes into the BOV myself. I'll then TIG the 2 pieces together and it will look more official than using an adapter plate with the other flange.

I hope to have it done next week, I'm out of town all weekend for a downhill race.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-20-2010, 02:07 AM
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if he runs the recirc fitting, it may run just fine. post a vid of how it runs when you get it all working. i must admit, i am curious
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-01-2010, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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well I finally got a little free time to finish up the flange. I didn't take many pictures, because I was in a rush to test it out. I made the base plate the same size as the stock BOV, and I used an N52 (bmw engine) intake gasket in the machined groove. Apparently it's the same size as the stock BOV gasket.

The base plate and the tube that goes into the BOV were TIG welded together and I used a large aluminum rivet inserted from the inside as a vacuum nipple. Hard to explain but, I flared the rivet a little to create a tight seal and it left me enough of a nipple on the outside to put a vac hose onto. This vac hose is used for the boost signal on the BOV. The fact that it isn't coming directly from the compressor isn't critical in this case because the signal is only used to help open the valve faster. A bonus to having the boost signal on the flange is that it doesn't mess with the waste gate control.

One more reason my flange is better than the synapse:
with mine you don't need to remove the driver side intercooler bracket to fit the valve. The idea of removing brackets doesn't sit well with me, the intercooler moves too much without it.

For the record, it doesn't run like crap. I now have no boost leaks and no wastegate control interference, like with the synapse flange and install instructions. It just runs like it has the stock BOV installed, but you can actually hear it.

sorry about the quality, taken with my iphone and a flashlight.





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post #8 of 8 Old 06-01-2010, 11:31 PM
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looks good man. i've always been curious about these things ever since my mazda. so, i require videos. please and thank you! =D
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