Subaru WRX Forum (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/)
- Bolt-on Tech (EJ255/EJ257 2.5L 2008+ WRX, STi, and GT) (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/)
- - New Dyno, 09 WRX EWG 330HP 360TQ (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/new-dyno-09-wrx-ewg-330hp-360tq-29731/)
New Dyno, 09 WRX EWG 330HP 360TQ
well went back to the dyno today to tune for EWG Tial 38mm. things just seamed to work out a little better with the smoothness of everything so we added 1.5psi of boost and upped the fuel to 94% IDC. all in all the car is really night and day. feels so smooth and powerful. above 4000rpm you can really feel the increase of 10-25HP and TQ all the way to redline!! EWG FTW!!!!!!!
the things in red are all new over the last tune. last tune was 313HP 357TQ, new tune is 330HP 360TQ.
Event: dyno pull and street tune
Location: Applied Tuning, Cbus OH
Ambient Temp: 72 dyno, 55 street [COLOR=red]NEW 78 dyno, 71 street[/COLOR]
Tires: stock Dunlop 225/45/17
Car: 09, wrx
Tuner: Eric Hargett
Dyno Info: Dynojet
Peak HP at RPM: SAE corrected 1.0, 313HP 5900RPM [COLOR=red]NEW 330HP 580000RPM[/COLOR]
Peak TQ at RPM: SAE corrected 1.0, 357TQ 3700RPM [COLOR=red]NEW 360TQ 4300RPM [/COLOR]
Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same dyno: stock 09 wrx 230HP
Target Boost: 19.5 taper to 14.5[COLOR=red]NEW 21 taper to 15.5[/COLOR]
Target AFR: 11.1
Fuel: Shell 93 summer blend
Injectors/duty cycle: Stock 565cc/90% [color=red]NEW 94%[/color]
Timing: 21 degress
Perrin light weight pulley
Invidia catless DP
Gimmspeed 3-port EBCS
Walbro 255lph pump
NGK 1 step colder plugs
TurboXS RFL BOV
custom blow through
[color=red]NEW custom oil catch can venting both crank and valves to atmos[/color]
[color=red]Grimmspeed EWG/Tial 38mm[/color]
Do the 06-07 WRXs injectors drop right in for you guys? If so that would be a relatively easy cheap mod to do to drop the IDCs or even push a little more fuel. But otherwise thats a nice improvement over the last tune. Congrats.
Time for corn!
Time for some sort of exhaust manifold (holding out for GS ELH stuff I assume)!
I do find it odd that you're hitting peak tq 500 rpm's later than before, which would mean you're hitting peak boost later. Hitting peak boost later makes sense because you're making more, but you should still make peak tq at about the same time, if not then make more tq later. To me 360 isn't gaining anything over 357.
All in all, your results were pretty close to mine. I gained HP, tq remained the same. I just come into peak quicker than before the EWG.
PS - Does your EWG sound pulsy when open or is it a constant roar? You have a 3-port so I'm assuming it's pulsy.
EL header YES! but im tired of waiting! Perrin made some revisions so i think its a lot better and ill be picking it up. just worried how much more the power is going to go to the right. opeing up the exhaust i believe does that unlike what everyone says, that it moves it to the left and speeds up spool. as for the reason why? dont know. so many months have passed and we changed a lot of things in the tune as everything can could play a role. thoughs numbers are so close to each other that im not going to worry about 5-10 when the tunes are 6 months apart.
we were also talking about how something didnt look right and the TGVs were to blame. so i might be picking them up as well.
as for sounds it just sounds nasty! it opens and closes so fast it just sounds like it fully open all the time. not sure how to describe pulsy but it does open and close really fast and just makes that sound i guess.
Yeah it's a very fast open/close cycle. I prefer a fully open gate, but the pulsing sound is fun too.
If you ever run a lower boost map, say spring pressure, the gate will open up and stay open (lower boost, needs less exhaust to spin, needs to divert more out the gate), and it sounds mean as hell. When I first put mine on and ran spring pressure it was music, after the tune I was slightly disappointed with the sound.
well it cant be fully open because then you wouldnt hit target boost. the springs closed till it hits say 20psi. then it opens so it doesnt boost over 20psi. once it gets below 20psi it closes and so on. this all happens in tenths of a second. so it must open close open close with pulses. ive never heard of what you described. if the spring was fully open at 14.5 psi the turbo could never produce enough boost to then match that. i dont know
Let me rephrase that. I just mean open and not pulsing, not constantly fully open. You would never make boost.
With the three port the gate opens and closes rapidly to keep boost where the ecu wants it no matter what boost pressure you want. That's the 3-port doing it's job sending boost to the gate as it needs it.
If you were to bypass the 3-port and hook the compressor outlet directly to a top port on the gate, you'll have the gate opening at spring pressure. As long as you continue to make boost at spring pressure, the gate will open. Yes it will fluctuate a tiny bit (as the gate opens boost falls a tiny bit which causes the gate to close a tiny bit which causes boost to build back up a tiny bit, it keeps going), but it will basically hold rock steady at the spring pressure.
well if i ever get fuel or a turbo or motor that can push the same boost from start to finish id get a spring that could do what i want to get rid of the 3-port. we spent a good 30min on adjusting that and it would be nice to eliminate it.
i think 20-22psi from start to finish would be perfect as long as the turbo is my size or just a little larger. i wouldnt want 22psi at redline like out of a GT35
EDIT. actually what can are turbos push at redline?? i could throw in a small red or blue spring for 1.4 or 1.5 bar for nothing as long as the turbo can do it. of course id buy injectors by then.
Right on, if you keep pushing the boost towards redline you'll need more injector. The turbo can do it, but I have no idea what kind of efficiency you'll be into, or rather not into at that point.
That's how a lot of guys keep flat torque curves. You sacrifice a bit of top end torque by cutting the peak boost, to say 17psi, but you reverse taper the boost up to 19 or so at redline and you're tq curve is a ramp up to about 3300 rpm's and then flat all the way to 7k. Kinda cool.
From the 20g-xt thread on Nasioc, look at post #119:
That's a local guy by me and that's how he got his tuned.
ill just see i guess. i do plan no doing the injectors, tgv's, and fuel rails at the same time now.
Not much need for rails IMO. I'm planning on keeping my stock rails in my build. There's not much wrong with them unless you buy into a companies advertising... Hint: their rails are identically set up as oem rails, they just route the fuel lines differently so they're in parallel and not series. You can do the same thing with the oem rails. It's just changing the hoses up a bit.
If ya want them is one thing, but if you think you need them you don't. If anything an FPR is a better choice an up the pressure a tiny bit to make sure you never drop too low.
The only benefit I've seen to aftermarket rails is that it's easier to swap injectors
^ THAT, and they're pretty. And they're something else to put on your list. There may be minute benefits when it comes to the flow properties vs oem rails but there are much better things to spend $350+ on.
I've got them on my car...but mine were free...if I had to pay for them I probably wouldn't have...I know plenty of 450~550awhp cars on stock fuel rails
^^ really??? so all the Perrin talk is BS about running lean or hurting the last cylinder on the fuel train? the stock setup is pretty bad of a design IMO. its like a KillerB oil pick up, better safe then sorry no?
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:33 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin®. Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.0.8pl1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2015 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.