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My Phase III Project - 09 WRX HB

13K views 89 replies 6 participants last post by  mosc 
#1 · (Edited)
My Phase III Project - 09 WRX HB - Re-Dyno Date 3/1/2010



Phase III of my project is starting on Monday. Honestly, I did not expect to start this phase till mid-year. I was just doing my research and shopping around until I called EDO performance. I was instantly engaged by their professionalism and customer service.

Long story short, I am currently running "Stage 3" Perrin map (TBE, TMIC, AP), never dyno my car. My guestimate is 270 -280 whp (based on stock 228 whp) and I have no idea what my torque is. I also noticed that my Injector Duty Cycle was hitting 100% at times.

Phase III includes:
1) Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
2) Power Enterprise 800 cc injectors
3) Tomei Unequal Length Headers - wrapped (This was a very tough choice between the rumble sound and slightly higher performance until EDO told me that the Tomei ELH would not fit WRX (fits STi))
4) Tomei Uppipe
5) Samco Inlet Hose
6) Blitz SUS Air Intake
7) NGK Spark Plug 1 step colder
8) Protune

Based on a brief discussion with the Tuner @ EDO, target whp is around 320 (i hope torque is north of 300 lb/ft) and boost would be around 21 psi tapers down to 17.
They will run a baseline test with my current setup. I will post video and pictures later on.

I am going to drop off the car on Monday and pick it back up on Thursday. I will be there when they do the final dyno testing.

My Mod List:

Intake:
BMP Inlet Hose - New
Blitz SUS Air Intake - New

Intercooler:
Perrin TMIC - Baseline

Exhaust:
Perrin Downpipe - Baseline
Perrin Catback - Baseline
Tomei Unequal Length headers (wrapped) - New
Tomei Uppipe - New

Fuel:
Walbro 255 LPH pump - New
Power Enterprise 800 cc Injectors - New

Tune:
Cobb AccessPort - Baseline
ProTune: EDO Performance - New

Exterior:
H11 6000K HID Conversion
3M 20% Tint Front; 5% Tint Rear and Back

Transmission:
Perrin Short Shifter
Perrin Shift Bushing

Suspension:
Tein SS-P coilovers
Perrin 22mm Front Sway Bar
Perrin 19 mm Rear Sway Bar
Perrin Rear Endlinks
Perrin Front Strut Brace

Wheels:
Volk Racing GT-F 18x8
Falken 912Z 245/40/18
 
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#31 ·
RcrsWetDream,

The Dyno is run on Dynapack, which is known to produce a lower number compared to DynoJet.
I found this comparison...



I am really concern because the header is supposed to shift the power curve to the left with minimal gain on top hp / tq. The intake might make 10 hp more. With a little higher boost.... hopefully I'll hit 300 whp.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Mosc is right about that "rule of thumb". I had asked about that when tuning my car. I lose about 8HP on my 91OCT maps per PSI with my 20G, and about 10-12 HP on my 92 OCT maps. With the vf 52 you wont see that much loss, just like most vf series turbos they ARENT going to pull up top anyways.
 
#37 ·
newtothegame,

If I read it correctly, you were losing more hp/psi using your 92Oct map with your 20G turbo compared to the 91Oct map. Were you using 91Oct gas when you observed this? or it's primarily due to the bigger 20G turbo? (you mentioned that the vf is going to pull up top).
 
#38 ·
He's saying that when he runs higher octane, he gets more HP for a given pressure. This makes sense. Lets go back to physics:

Combustion engines make power by igniting AIR. AIR=POWER. Fuel is just a means to ignite the air. You can increase the force of the combustion by adding more air into the chamber. This is done through displacement (volume) compression, pressure, and air/fuel ratio. When you use higher octane, you need less fuel to ignite the air or more to the point, you will have more air in the chamber to ignite and make more power.
 
#39 ·
i heard its 10-12hp and depends on piping too. but you cant figure that for your car as your adding on more than just boost. if you had all the same parts and just put your injectors on and went from 15 to 20 psi then ya id say you might be looking at 10hp, so 50hp total. but with your intake and inlet and stuff you may see more.

as for turbo size there right. my 99 civic si with t3/t4 .70AR compresser, .68AR turbine, 3" inlet, 2.5" turbo to intercooler, 3" intercooler to throttle body, 24" X 12" X 3" intercooler, 3" full exhaust, tial 38mm EWG made 215hp on 7psi. she made 295 on 11psi, so thats 20psi per pound but because everything was so large!
 
#42 ·
the subis do need to be started up for XXX seconds before a run can take place. the ECU or something has to get set. i only know this from saturdays tune. also you need to wait some time between runs, i dont no a time per say but we did a run when the car wasnt ready after being turned on. we got poor numbers, waited no time and tried again and poor numbers. the second run the intake and TMIC were way to hot. also you cant wait to long because the fan will kick on and blow hot air all over everything and get another bad run. if i had to guess 3-5 min between runs. 30 seconds after car starts. dont run if your fan is on or if your water temp is over 190 (you can monitor it with a gauge or if you use open source software, not sure about an AP)
 
#43 ·
my Baseline run was done in the early morning.
I believe the tuner turned on the car and let it run for a good 5 mins (minimum) cos he was booting up the computer and calibrating the settings. So basically, the turbo is cool and the car is warmed up enough.
The second run is right after (about 1 min after) and the number was a lot lower.

I am curious if one has to change the boost setting between runs. Should they go from higher boost to lower boost or vise versa? also is 3-5 mins enough to cool down the engine and turbo and TMIC?

Also, I think the big fan in front of the car is going to blow the hot air everywhere anyways.
 
#46 ·
First attempt to pick up the car: Failed

I got there around 3:30 knowing the tune would not be completed by then. I just wanted to witness the end result of the tune. 2 and a half hour later. There's some technical issue. Boost leak is detected. The mechanic was fixing it and I didn't want them to rush. They were going to 1) wrap up the tune 2) test drive 3) clean the engine bay.

newtothegame is absolutely right about them not having the base map. He's starting from stratch and I somehow think it maybe a good thing. Well sucks for the tuner for all the time spent on it, but I get a complete custom map made just for my setup. He said I'm having too many parts changed at the same time and he wanted to make sure everything is top notch.

In one of many pulls he was able to get to
294 whp
305 wtq
with 18.5 psi
at 75F and 60% humidity
 
#48 ·
Great numbers. Sorry to hear about the issue. Having so many parts or not really makes no difference though. A base map just gets the car running, then things are changed through out the run. My car was started on a base map for my 20G, but is probably totally different than several of the 20G's cars out there that are probably even running the exact setup as mine as each car reacts differently and indepently of mods put on it. Thats just my .2 cents about it. I just dont like waiting too long, but it can be worth it. I do hope you get your baby back soon, its going to be a whole new car.
 
#49 ·
newtothegame,

Isn't tuning amazing. How can the same model cars react so differently to the same parts. It's just fascinating to me.

To me, I don't mind waiting as much cos I have another daily driver. It was just the anticipation that is killing me right now.
They are re-tightening up all hoses to make sure there's no more leaks this morning. Hopefully, they can finish the tune and I can pick up the car tonight.

One observation from yesterday is that the car now sounds louder. For those of you who's got an aftermarket headers or PnP headers, do you experience loudy exhaust note?
 
#50 ·
Not really, no. With headers though, you may be hearing more sound through the wall of the headers as they are a lot thinner than stock or even PnP manifolds. I know with the a lot of the aftermarket headers, the car tends to sound more raspy and even a bit tin-y I guess you can say. It's like the sound difference between blowing on a glass bottle to a plastic bottle. They may be the same size, but the thicker material helps to keep resonance to a minimum.
 
#51 ·
now i cant wait to see. you'd think intake header and 3.5 more psi would yeild more torque then 13. HP isnt bad at 40 but i think it will be making a lot more when all said and done. with all your parts you should want to go to 20-21 psi no??
 
#52 ·
Tuning is one of those things I would love to get into, but kind of intimidates me alot still. I know when I did my last build (turbo, TMIC, BPV, already had full TBE and intake) the car got much louder to include the exhaust note.
 
#53 ·
Second attempt to pick up the car: Failed

Why did I put "First attempt Failed" yesterday? Did I know there will be a second attempt? Did I know the second attempt would fail? I had no idea yesterday.....

Got a call from them and now it is the Turbo Inlet Hose. The one they originally wanted to put in was for the last generation and after trying to make it work by messing with the bracket. It didn't work. They are ordering the Samco Inlet Hose (pricy)...

More to come.... (the saga continues)
 
#54 ·
Dang man. I know exactly how you feel. I have a thread that shows some misfortune similar to yours (my first 20G literally fell apart while on the dyno). I really hope you get your baby back soon, I was without mine for a month and it dang near killed me at times, lol.
 
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