Mating an Invidia DP to different make CBE - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 12-25-2013, 01:57 PM
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Found it. Nameless Performance sales a 3" midpipe that replaces the stock 2.5". Hopefully it'll solve my problem.
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#17 Old 01-03-2014, 02:02 PM
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My invidia fit perfect with my turboxs CBE.

Catless FTW. A proper tune will eliminate the creep and a 3-port and ewg help more

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#18 Old 01-03-2014, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czechcityhunter View Post
Found it. Nameless Performance sales a 3" midpipe that replaces the stock 2.5". Hopefully it'll solve my problem.
It won't.

Post the graph so we can see. The exhaust isn't going to make a dip. Only a timing issue or fuel is normally the cause.

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#19 Old 01-03-2014, 09:04 PM
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My Invidia downpipe fit perfectly. It's just I want it to be 3" pipe all the way to the back. Here's the dyno. I also just bought a Perrin front mount intercooler. That WRX stock top mount is crap. When we were doing pulls, I was spraying water on the top mount and it was steaming like crazy.
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#20 Old 01-06-2014, 06:32 PM
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the dips could be knock. if they manifold was that hot then you were blowing way to hot of air down into the motor. the tuner should of backed the timing down. the FMIC will help greatly! the bigger 3" will do nothing for knock, you might get some power but I doubt it till you go above like 400hp.

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#21 Old 01-08-2014, 10:32 AM
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The stock midpipe on the 08+ is like 2.25" not 2.5" I am pretty sure. I agree, the dip is more likely engine trouble than an exhaust bottleneck.

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#22 Old 01-08-2014, 07:01 PM
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Once I install my new goodies this weekend, I'll take it to the shop and get another tune.
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#23 Old 01-20-2014, 01:08 AM
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Pay the extra money and get CATTED!
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#24 Old 01-21-2014, 07:35 PM
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Pay the extra money and get CATTED!
Boo!

More money, they fail, smell worse, less power, no thanks.

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#25 Old 01-21-2014, 10:08 PM
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^ pretty sure odds of boost creep go up with a non catted dp. Catted is the best bet. I typically don't stand behind my car and smell the fumes so that shouldn't matter. I'd rather have "safer" performance. You may lose a whole 5 hp from a catted dp.
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#26 Old 01-22-2014, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arewmors View Post
^ pretty sure odds of boost creep go up with a non catted dp. Catted is the best bet. I typically don't stand behind my car and smell the fumes so that shouldn't matter. I'd rather have "safer" performance. You may lose a whole 5 hp from a catted dp.
You are absolutely right Andy! Although creep is not guaranteed to happen the odds are higher catless like you said and if it does happen (which nobody will ever know until the parts are already installed) catted is the best bet and cheapest in the long run.

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Boo!

More money, they fail, smell worse, less power, no thanks.
You are also absolutely right...kinda.


Catless is cheaper considering you don't get creep/spikes.

Cats can clog up or even break apart over time.

I'm not so sure they smell worse. They are supposed to remove or lessen some of the bad emmisions so, I would think catless would stink more.

A few extra ponies is to be gained without cats but like Andy said, they are minimal.

There is nothing wrong with using a catless downpipe. Just be sure before you commit that you will be ready for the extra cost you may incur. It is possible you could need wastegate porting, extra tuning, external wastegate, and/or a different boost control solenoid to combat overboosting. You should also think about inspection if you have them. then again you may slap it on and everything be easy-peasy. I went catless and overboosted. I ended up having to get a ewg, ebcs, and tuning to fix it. I love it but, a catted would have saved me some much needed cash at the time.
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