custom making inlet tube for 09 wrx - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-12-2010, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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custom making inlet tube for 09 wrx

well i was gonna wait and post a how too like i did for the blow through setup but i thought id share now and then later ill chime back in when im done.

so i really dont "want" to do an inlet because i know others with 400HP on the stock one and everything is fine. but hey i cant keep still and i always want something more to see if i can make it better. plus its way cheaper than an aftermarket inlet and solid aluminium is better then Perrin and stock.

so what ill need. an AP 2.4" to 3" reducer offset coupling for starters. $30



next a 90 degree 3" aluminium pipe off ebay. $22



and last some Durafix brazing rods. $44 is the cheapest for one pound. of couse you'll only end up needing one rod so its more like $1.37, but hey you'll have a ton left over for any projects you have.

Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod


you'll use the durafix because its cheaper then having someone weld everything up and not everyone has a welder. it should be pretty easy to find aluminium hollow pipe somewhere and cut nipples for all the vacuum lines. drill some holes, braze the nipples and should be all done.

ill post back once im done. just like the AP inlet you will have to dent some of the pipe to get it to fit around somethings that stick up. but $53 is better than $250.

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-27-2010, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE


so i got the 3" pipe off ebay and so far it turns out to be the perfect size. I say so far because I haven’t installed it yet. but by sitting it on top of the manifold and looking down with the bend in the same spot as the OEM, its the perfect length to the turbo with the coupling added on.

i ended up not getting Durafix because summit racing had the same thing basically and it was cheaper. it was kind of easy to use but im no pro. since i haven’t pressure tested it yet and there is no need really because the inlet will not see boost, as a back up i just put a little silicone around the nipples. i didnt see any pin holes but it makes me feel better. the brazing did work though. i pulled and pulled and those nipples are on there!! as good as a weld!

i found aluminium tubing online at a hobby site but i figured id see if i could find some local. the only thing i could find was hollow aluminium knitting needles haha. they were of proper size so i got them. only $2 and they worked perfect.

next up is wrapping the pipe since i have a lot of wrap left over and i want to keep heat at bay. also if i do have to dent the pipe the wrap will cover what i dent. soon as the coupling gets here ill move to install and put a bracket on like the stock inlet to keep it secure.


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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-09-2011, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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ok all done. it ended up working like a dream!! with no nipples like the BPV return, valve cover vents, cranks case vent it fits perfect. also the passenger side air pump valve was removed along with the whole air pump system. while i had the opportunity i also did parallel fuel lines, TGV deletes, EL header and put in a 15lbs battery. over all the space saving is AWESOME, you can do injectors and spark plugs now with ease.

i went for a tune and got all the codes deleted. it runs amazing! zero problems with cold starting! so the battery runs great, the TGVs deleted didnt hurt anything, and i did not hook up my coolent lines back to the throttle body which also had zero effect on the car. no ice up or anything!

since its winter and we have bad gas we only did some road pulls. we did not dyno. all i can say is the huge volume of air now is allowing the turbo to make more boost! which is making the turbo happy. i was tuned before for 21psi with a 15.5psi taper but it was pushing 22-23 psi. we turned it down since the injectors are maxed and im waiting for summer. ill be doing ID 1000cc injecoters and a 3 bar MAP sensor. we'll be pushing for 24psi with a 17psi taper. the goal is to break 350HP on 93!!!








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post #4 of 12 Old 01-10-2011, 01:37 PM
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woooow look at all that room. My knuckles are crying in jealousy looking at that. A word of warning for anyone who tries to replicate that you MUST tune when you resize piping like this! It's not a hardware-only job.

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-10-2011, 02:34 PM
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Is the new diameter that much different ?

Paul
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-10-2011, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
Is the new diameter that much different ?
o yes! plus the Perrin EL vs OEM header, it all added up.








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post #7 of 12 Old 01-10-2011, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
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i pulled and pulled and those nipples are on there!!
Just wanted to quote that.

-Chris
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-10-2011, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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lmao!

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-11-2011, 06:52 AM
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Real nice Chris...

Always on the look out.... lol

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-15-2011, 09:33 PM
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Very intresting, also refreshing to see somone go off the beatin path. kodos on your injenuity.
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-15-2011, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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AIR PUMP delete

first thing you need to do is unplug the air pump and remove the pump with its mounting bracket still on.

next take off the black plastic tube that was attached to the air pump and blocking the spark plugs. it has one 10mm bolt that bolts it to the drivers side head.

next under the car remove it from the drivers side valve. then unbolt the drivers side valve from the head. its very easy and being under the car everything is right in front of you.

you will also have to remove the black tube that attaches the two valves together from the drivers side valve so you can remove it. and of course unplug the electrical connection.

putting on the block off plate is easy with a new gasket and should only take a minute. again the back of the head is right in front of you. however you will not be able to re-use the two 10mm bolts. they are to long, you need shorter ones.

whats left on the car is the passenger side valve and the black hose connected to it. you will not be able to take these off unless you remove the manifold! once the manifold is off you can remove the black tube. you can also take off the two 10mm nuts holding down the passenger side valve to the block.

now you need to remove the metal tube connected to the passenger side valve and the head (leave the metal tube attached to the passenger side valve). you do not need to remove anything to do this!! dont remove the UP or DP or turbo. just get your hands down by the turbo and feel for that metal tube. it has two 10mm bolts holding it to the head. you can get to them and its pretty easy even though the whole time you will not be able to see them. once you remove them the passenger side valve can be rotated to the passenger side of the car and the metal tube will slip on out between the turbo and back of the block. then using your hands again get your block off plate and new gasket with one bolt at a time and find the holes on the back of the head and tighen.

NOTE. dont over tighten! the drivers side block off is 14 ft lbs and the passenger side block off is only 6.6 ft lbs.

now that everything is off you need to get the sensor off the top of the passenger side valve. you will need a razor blade and flat head screw driver. i started cutting around the part of the sensor that looks square. once all that was cut off i got a flat head and ever so slightly pushed up on it. the black circles are whats holding it down. they will break and you will hear a snap but dont worry. as long as the square sensor head and plug in are not damaged it will be fine. you will notice that there are some copper lines running down into the valve its self. you will break these in half but done worry, they are just the electrical connections that power the valve up and down, they have nothing to do with the sensor. just plug the sensor back in and zip tie it down and out of the way.

NOTE. the drivers side valve electrical connector and air pump power connector should be electrical taped up very well so nothing can get into the prongs. id also tape up the passenger side sensor if you see the copper wires sticking out under the plug in area. but dont tape it all up. if you look under the square you see a small hole. i believe this is were air comes into the sensor to take barometric readings.




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post #12 of 12 Old 01-15-2011, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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ok first if anyone wants to do parallel fuel lines.

parts needed.
6 feet of 5/16 fuel injection hose, NOT just fuel hose!
2 brass 5/16 Tee's
about 8 fuel injection hose clamps, dont use worm clamps! you can re-use 2 OEM ones because they go around OEM fuel hose. OEM clamps will not go around the 5/16 hose, its a larger OD.
a pack of wire mesh.

ok in the first pic is the way the lines are run. the Red arrow is a new 5/16 fuel injection hose. you must use fuel injection hose and not just fuel hose. the line with the Red arrow is the feed line coming from the tank (that line used to go to where the Blue arrow is pointing which feed the back fuel injector first of the drivers side). now the feed hose goes around the throttle body and under the IM to a brass Tee. for the passenger side there is a fuel hose already that you can see in the second pic with the Red circle. hook up the brass Tee to the back hose. the back hose in the second pic feeds the fuel injector closest to the front end, so of course you want to hook up the last port of the first Tee with a hose going to drivers side fuel lines and hook that up to the front injector also. in the second pic this will be the metal line that the Blue arrow is pointing to. where the Blue and Red arrows are pointing to in the second pic is where new 5/16 hose will bolt to. you will keep everything right of the Blue and Red arrows in the second pic. everything to the left of the arrows will not get used.

that completes the feed lines. you will feed the front two injectors at the same time, then the back injectors get feed as fuel goes through the fuel rails. now for the fuel to return to the tank.

in the second pic again with the Red circle you will want to hook up the second brass Tee to the hose closest to the front of the car as this is the return hose from the passenger side fuel rail. as seen in the first pic the Blue arrow is the return now for the drivers side fuel rail. that snakes its way under the front of the IM and into the brass Tee. then looking at the second pic again the Red arrow shows where you need a little more 5/16 hose to run from the brass Tee to the metal line which leads to the fuel pressure regulator. then use the OEM hose from the FPR back to the lines on the drivers side strut tower.








NOTE!!!!!!!!! i used wire mesh around the hose like OEM where ever the new 5/16 fuel hose touched something. as rubbing could occur and a leak could form. this can be bought anywhere like summit racing. its not wire loom, its a plastic mesh that you can see on many of your OEM hose.

ALSO, do not bolt anything down when trying to do this (TGV's are fine). the IM needs to be lose so you can get your hands under it to tighten down the injector clamps. its a HUGE PITA as the metal fuel lines containing the FPR and drivers side fuel rail need snaked through the IM to meet up with hoses coming off the brass Tee's. it will take time and patience!

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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