I know for my 07 the SS is way worth it. Faster, thats debatable. Better, easier shifting, FOR SURE. I also like the fact that its not so tall of a shifter also. Just my two cents.
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Joshua
"2007 WRX-20G- Tim Bailey tuned 326 HP 319 ft/lbs
Stage 2 2005 WRX
Cobbtuning.com"
As mentioned in the second video, "worth every penny!" and my reason is because you can enjoy the potential of that mod every time you shift gears And yes, it's a HUGE difference in feel. The stock shifter and bushing combo felt like rowing a canoe through muddy water, vague, soft, rubbery, no 'snickety' engagement. The COBB combo though, feels like a transmission
Nice write up. I wish I had the money to mod my car but right now I am still stock =/
I like the way your getting around the CAI how much do those two tubes cost?
Thanks for the feedback on that. I'm hoping for more responses about this as I really have myself convinced it's a great idea and can't find a real reason why it isn't. So even positive feedback helps reinforce that decision.
The most expensive part is the Turbo Inlet Hose which is ~$220. The Blitz filter is ~$45 and the Afta-Maf is ~$70. If I didn't want to address the Inlet Hose, then this setup would only run me $115 which is much cheaper than a CAI, which are roughly $250. But addressing the Inlet Hose at the same time gives me more potential for gain, and more consistent airflow. The whole Custom Intake will run me about $330, but it will address the airflow all the way to the turbo, instead of stopping at the Inlet Hose like other CAIs do.
What is your peak boost ?......and what is your wot boost?,,,,,,,,also did the tuner lean it out to 11 afr??......The stage 2 for your car looks really low as in whp/tq.
What is your peak boost ?......and what is your wot boost?,,,,,,,,also did the tuner lean it out to 11 afr??......The stage 2 for your car looks really low as in whp/tq.
I agree, the Perrin Stage 2 wasn't making big power. For what it's worth, Shawn did a run with the COBB OTS Stage 2 91ACN, and it made a good bit more power with less psi than PERRINs Stage 2. But it's also important to note that I'm running 91 octane in California, which is sub-par fuel. So it could be the reason why the PERRIN map wasn't making good power.
My custom tune is targeting 17psi if I recall correctly, then holds ~16 psi up to around 5000 rpm. I'll double check tonight and post the graphs I have.
I have perrin stage 2 (91 octane) loaded and it peaks at 16psi , and holds at 10psi , ............There is no way in hell your pushing 16 all the way up to 5k , that would be like another 75+ hp on your stage 2 and you should have at least 250-280hp @wheels with a protune...........keep dreaming . That tune tapers off to like 13psi at the most at wot.
I have perrin stage 2 (91 octane) loaded and it peaks at 16psi , and holds at 10psi , ............There is no way in hell your pushing 16 all the way up to 5k , that would be like another 75+ hp on your stage 2 and you should have at least 250-280hp @wheels with a protune...........keep dreaming . That tune tapers off to like 13psi at the most at wot.
Correct, the PERRIN doesn't hold that kind of boost. Hence it has lower power output than the Church tune.
Like I said, I wasn't 100% sure what psi my church tune is holding, but I vaguely recall that it was roughly 15-16. It's very possible that I'm mistaken. Like I said, I will scan in and post the boost graph when I get home. And yes, psi drops off a lot at redline, but I remember it held pretty decent up to 5000.
I have perrin stage 2 (91 octane) loaded and it peaks at 16psi , and holds at 10psi , ............There is no way in hell your pushing 16 all the way up to 5k , that would be like another 75+ hp on your stage 2 and you should have at least 250-280hp @wheels with a protune...........keep dreaming . That tune tapers off to like 13psi at the most at wot.
Well here's the graph. My mistake on misquoting the boost levels. In fact, I did a WOT run on my way home and watched my Boost and AFRs, and saw the Boost tapering off. Again, my mistake. Oh and to answer your AFR question, It's showing 11.1 AFR religiously all the way to redline once I'm WOT.
Gotta love the small turbine.........hehehehe no top end , but in all seriousness, you should have put a cold air intake on and a crank pulley , for a few more ponies, but even the psi level you are using now is kinda dangerous. I will post my protune in a month or so , when I have time to get it done, I'm staying with the stock turbine for those wonderful street light races........
Gotta love the small turbine.........hehehehe no top end , but in all seriousness, you should have put a cold air intake on and a crank pulley , for a few more ponies, but even the psi level you are using now is kinda dangerous. I will post my protune in a month or so , when I have time to get it done, I'm staying with the stock turbine for those wonderful street light races........
Does the pulley equate to any actual horsepower gains or just lighter rev up? I'd want something light but not under driven.
As far as intake is concerned, I have a K&N SRI that got delivered today. I will be installing that as well as the PERRIN inlet pipe before my dyno in mid-January. I will look a little more into the pulley, so thanks for the suggestion.
My final mod diagram should look like this when I go in for the tune:
Let me know what you guys think or if you have any further suggestions.
The lightweight pulley will give you a few ponies , and a faster rev ........change all the pulley's and a cold air not short ram (hot air from engine bay , not good dude, I've seen the k&n , it doesnt go far enough into the fender.) , and expect another 10-20 hp............
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And yes, it's a HUGE difference in feel. The stock shifter and bushing combo felt like rowing a canoe through muddy water, vague, soft, rubbery, no 'snickety' engagement. The COBB combo though, feels like a transmission 
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