AEM Wideband and DP question 14 WRX - Subaru WRX Forum
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#1 Old 01-26-2014, 11:00 PM
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AEM Wideband and DP question 14 WRX

My next mod will be an AEM wideband. I need to remove the downpipe heatshield to have a shop weld a bung. Is it possible to remove the heatshield while it is still bolted on? I have read that most shops can weld the bung while the DP is still attached.

Also I plan on having the shop weld the bung about where most aftermarket pipes have which is still in the engine bay toward the top of the downpipe. I read that we don't have the heat problems that other cars do because the heat disapates quicker. Is this true and I won't have any issues running without a heat shield and putting the 02 Sensor in that spot?

The grommet right by that area seems like the best spot to run the wiring inside and then across. I plan on using another add a fuse and go to the ignition fuse since this is what others have said is the recommended location. The ground I will probably just put with the boost gauge ground. Mount in the SMY Cluster and hopefully be good to go!

I appreciated all the input when I did the boost gauge and would take any advice you guys can offer on this. Thanks!
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#2 Old 01-27-2014, 05:16 AM
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I also have the aem wideband. Nice choice in gauges. You should be fine grounding it in the same spot as the boost gauge. I would not hesitate to run both gauges of the same fuse tap. Less clutter that way. If I remember correctly thats how I did mine but, if you want to add another one the that's even better. If you plan to datalog with it in the future then go ahead and get the busted finger datalog cable also. Trust me when I tell you it will be much easier to wire that into your gauge upon initial install instead of later. I keep mine tucked under the dash out of sight but, still easy to get to when I need to connect it to my laptop. Remember that when you have your bung welded in a hole will have to be drilled in your downpipe. This in turn will drop metal shavings into your downpipe that you don't want getting in your turbo or catalytic converter so, you might as well just take off the downpipe. That way you can keep your heat shields on also. Just make a hole in the shield for access to the sensor and bung. If you do go this route don't forget you will need a new doughnut gasket and downpipe to turbo gasket. Another option would be to just install everything except the sensor until you get a aftermarket downpipe. That way you can prolong the life of your sensor. They are known not to last long and are about $100.
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#3 Old 01-27-2014, 10:10 AM
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^ What he said...
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#4 Old 01-27-2014, 10:47 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I'm glad you mentioned that about the metal shavings because that wasn't something I thought of. I don't want to go stage 2 for a while so I like the idea of removing the pipe, putting a cut in the shield and then putting the bung in.

That stinks about the sensor not lasting long. Do they last longer in aftermarket down pipes or do they burn up quicker in those too?

Can it not be run further from the turbo and still read accurately?
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#5 Old 01-27-2014, 09:41 PM
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if you start the car right before you start drilling the hole for the wideband it will keep metal shavings from falling into the downpipe.
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#6 Old 01-27-2014, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Epictofer View Post
if you start the car right before you start drilling the hole for the wideband it will keep metal shavings from falling into the downpipe.
But, then it goes into your CAT...

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#7 Old 01-27-2014, 11:23 PM
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it "should" blow the shavings out the hole before then ever get inside the downpipe. as in exhaust pressure will come out the hole your drilling not letting the shavings fall inside
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#8 Old 01-28-2014, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14WRX View Post
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad you mentioned that about the metal shavings because that wasn't something I thought of. I don't want to go stage 2 for a while so I like the idea of removing the pipe, putting a cut in the shield and then putting the bung in.

That stinks about the sensor not lasting long. Do they last longer in aftermarket down pipes or do they burn up quicker in those too?

Can it not be run further from the turbo and still read accurately?
They usually last 2-3 years on average. For an accurate reading I would put it where AEM recommends. It tells you in the instructions but, I can't remember. I think its like 6" from the turbo or something.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Epictofer View Post
if you start the car right before you start drilling the hole for the wideband it will keep metal shavings from falling into the downpipe.
While this could somehow magically work it's not something I would chance. I would strongly recommend against this.

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#9 Old 01-28-2014, 05:38 AM
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When you get a DP though make sure you get the extra bung when you order it. I know the Cobb DP includes the extra bung already there, no extra charge. Some companies charge your extra, but it'd be well worth it. Saves you from drilling into your new DP

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#10 Old 01-28-2014, 07:21 AM
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Thanks for all the input. Having a few thoughts about it for now. If it were you guys would you get the Cobb AP first? I am trying to decide if I should just keep the other pod covered and not mess with it until I get a few more parts.
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#11 Old 01-28-2014, 03:36 PM
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Yes, I would go with the AP first. It has several gauge functions on it and you can instantly flash to stage 1. I have a old boost gauge thats not hooked up in my last empty space in my pod until I have the extra cash to finish my gauges with a AEM oil pressure gauge.
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#12 Old 01-28-2014, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the input something to think about.
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