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post #1 of 27 Old 05-01-2011, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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2011 wrx questions

Ok i have a few questions i just bought a wrx about a month ago(m not new to turbo cars i had a 98 eclipse gsx for 2 years just new to the subaru world) and now that im past the break-in period i wanna do some small things to it. I read that putting a bov on it makes the car run horrible and if this is true then thats outta the question. i want the turbo to be a little louder. i read somewhere that some one just bought a k&n air filter took the air box off and put the filter on the stock setup but i dont understand how with the sensor on the air box. Has any one else tried this if so can you post some pics and how you did it. i dont wanna go all out rite now and spend crazy money on an intake just yet. im just trying to find a cheap way to do it. and if this was already discussed im sorry i searched around and didnt see anything. any input will be great thanks
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post #2 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 01:28 AM
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a BOV yes, they run like crap unless you go FMIC and run blow through MAF instead of draw through MAF. now you can get an aftermarket metal BPV which you should because the stock ones can leak and crack since their made of plastic when you start upgrading and running more boost. ive heard the 50/50 BPVs work ok but for me id go 100% recirculating.

as for the intake i have never heard of that because to bolt a circle cone filter on the stock MAF tube would be impossible since the MAF tube is made of rubber. they were probably talking about a K&N drop in filter which you could do. you could also delete the snorkle but you wont hear it that much louder. you either need to cut the hell out of your stock air box or just buy an aftermarket CAI.

1. personally id go with the TXS CAI because there all really just metal tubes with a MAF sensor locations and you dont need to spend $300 when one can be had for $170.

2. get off the OEM map. they run crazy lean off the bat plus they have long closed to open loop map delays which if your highway cruising and punch it you can be in closed loop map settings with crazy lean AFR for a few seconds which can pop these motors. these motors dont like knock and the pistons have crappy ringlands. of course you have safety features like knock sensors and ignition retarding but it does and can happen.

3. if you add a CAI of any kind, even a drop in filter make sure you get a tune. these cars are a little picky when modding and any parts should be tuned for for safety. the most important again is getting off the stock tune. once tuned the first time its not as dangerous to add a part or two since the time delay will be set to zero and you'll be much richer then OEM. but you should still take it easy and get a tune ASAP with parts on these cars.

4. not sure if you know this but the 2011 motors now get synthetic oil from the factory. why i dont know because it sucks for break-in's but make sure your not going backwards and using non synthetic oil

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #3 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info i was thinking the same thing about the air intake i will have to check into tht CAI then and as for getting it tuned i guess i would have to buy the Cobb AP? and the oil yea i know i changed it a little after i hit 1000 and put synthetic in it also if i change the map will the dealership beable to tell if it was messed with because i have to take my car back down for a few small problems but its gonna be there a couple days and dont want them to noticed i did any mods because i dont want to lose the warranty
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post #4 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 02:38 PM
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To me AP's are for people who don't live near a tuner or who only want to add on a TBE and stop at stage 2. 1. Off the shelf maps aren't as safe as a custom tune and 2. Why pay for the AP when you will then have to pay for a tune if you add more parts? Save the money and just get it tuned. A tuner will use a $170 tactrix cable to tune your car and use Rom Raider downloaded off line. You could of course get those too to monitor everything and log runs and stuff. If you don't live near a tuner you can also use this because you can email a saved logged run and a tuner can check it out and fix stuff if need be. I think it's a little scary to do all tuning through email but it can be done.

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #5 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
2. get off the OEM map. they run crazy lean off the bat plus they have long closed to open loop map delays which if your highway cruising and punch it you can be in closed loop map...
They're still putting crappy tunes on from the factory on 2011's? Are they so bad they'll reflash at the dealer yet? Because I think they were doing that for the 07 right?

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post #6 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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well i dont know any tuners around me and yea in the future i wanna do more then just a CAI and TBE so i guess i will just invest in the cable and download the software eventually and do it that way. also if i get the cable would i beable to change the map with out doing any mods to it rite away or should i wait? and wht kind of BPV is recommended? sorry if im asking so much i just dont have much subaru knowledge yet and dont wanna hurt the car
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post #7 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 10:02 PM
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Soon as you get your tuning item of choice you can flash a Stage 1 map without any bolt-ons.

I myself run the Cobb AP that Synolimit so despises, but in the end, it is a personal choice.

Stage 1 by general definition is just an ECU flash and doesn't require anything else changed. Once you start changing out parts like intake (technically even drop in filters), turbo-back exhausts (down pipe), boost controllers, BOV, etc. you need to have a pro-tune.

Like other posts have shown, there are online tuners out there that will make a map for you based on your car and mods attached. Stage 1 maps are normally OTS (off the shelf) type ordeals since most these cars are the same mechanically. A custom tune for your particular car will always be more ideal, but that requires a tuner doing either a dyno tune (more $$) or at least a road tune.

Hope this helps-

-D
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post #8 of 27 Old 05-02-2011, 10:43 PM
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yes you can get off the OEM tune without any parts. the biggest things are richening it up a little and setting the closed to open loop time delay to zero. however i wouldnt touch it if i were you. ive seen the subi ECU log files, theres a couple hundred things no joke and i wouldnt know where to start, what to delete or start modifying in a safe manor. if anything buy a stage 1 map for like $50 as its already setup with either a stock CBE or an aftermarket one. as for a BPV id get a 100% recircluating one. Cobb's is all the rave now but ive always used turbo xs and all have been good. ive also never had to add extra washers in them and right now im up to 21psi and its holding firm!

EDIT. ^^^^^ya what he said.

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #9 of 27 Old 05-03-2011, 08:59 PM
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The crap BOVs need washers. I've had my Cobb BOV on full recirculating on 25 psi for about 4-5 months. Its still over 21 psi and running fine. So, stay clear of crap BOVs and you'll be fine.

Edit: My block isn't stock at all though. I don't think I'd run that much psi on a stock block at all.

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post #10 of 27 Old 05-03-2011, 11:54 PM
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^^^ psi or HP? like is 25psi on a TD04 bad because of the pressure, even though it would only make like 300HP?

i keep thinking about this. whats worse? a vf52 pushing like 24psi and making 350whp or a 2.5xtr pushing 19psi making 350whp? as long as there is no knock, temps remain the same from the FMIC cooling the boosted air etc. everything should be good no??

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post #11 of 27 Old 05-05-2011, 11:09 PM
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It was 25 psi on my 2.5XTR and is now on 23. The headers and EWG allowed my tuner to turn down the psi and get better numbers. 25 psi on my turbo is a shit ton more cfm than a TD04.

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post #12 of 27 Old 05-06-2011, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blu11wrx View Post
Thanks for the info i was thinking the same thing about the air intake i will have to check into tht CAI then and as for getting it tuned i guess i would have to buy the Cobb AP? and the oil yea i know i changed it a little after i hit 1000 and put synthetic in it also if i change the map will the dealership beable to tell if it was messed with because i have to take my car back down for a few small problems but its gonna be there a couple days and dont want them to noticed i did any mods because i dont want to lose the warranty
Make sure to check out the link below. It will link you to the Hypertech Max Energy Sport for your WRX. We add HP/TQ and allow for fine tuning with other features such as CAI tuning. Also on the linked post below is a dyno chart.

Hypertech Max Energy Sport Tuner Now Available for 2009-2011 Subaru Impreza WRX

Please let me know if you have an other questions.


Sean
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post #13 of 27 Old 05-06-2011, 02:01 PM
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not really what i was looking for. you said you wouldnt run that much psi on a stock block. did you mean psi or HP?

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #14 of 27 Old 05-06-2011, 10:18 PM
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Well, both at this point. But, I think 25 psi on a stock block would be a lot of stress. 350whp is getting into the considered "danger zone" of the stock internals. Again, its hard to say because it depends on which dyno and what type of driving demeanor would really kill it. But, my tuner swears its more the TQ than the HP that kills engines.

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post #15 of 27 Old 05-07-2011, 05:01 PM
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I agree 100% that torque kills like crack.

Also depends when the tq/hp kicks in... That's why lag is good (within reason)

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