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2011 wrx build :)

128K views 314 replies 22 participants last post by  mosc 
#1 ·
just thought id post up the new build thats gonna happen. im gonna do what i did last time with all my parts but going a few new route's starting with this little guy...



its a one piece JDM version 8 spec C manifold, no TGV's, and should be a first on an 11. this isnt my pic and mines pretty dirty so im gonna have grimmspeed port it out and i'll wrinkle black paint it. my TXS FMIC came with piping for the STI and WRX manifolds so install should be pretty easy. im still going to do parallel fuel lines again but this time im gonna cut my fuel rail ends to make nipples and flare them out so i can get a better flow design out of them because im also going to be adding a aeromotive FPR which will need mounted some where off the manifold like the firewall.

im also not sticking with my ewg UP. not that much room and if you can tell i want stuff no one else has. dont get me wrong, im definently sticking with a ewg but its gonna go on this guy...






ATP GT3076R or GTX3076R. now this is made for a 44mm ewg but im gonna have an adaptor made so i can run my 38mm and keep the price down. plus some people think small turbos should have large EWG's and large turbos should have small. i dont know if i believe it but it should be interesting to see this setup.

i might end up doing how to's for all of this and i know people might ask or say a lot is going to be involved which i havnt stated. i know this and not everything is going to be cut and dry but should be fun to find out.

my tuner is now on a brand new Mustang dyno and there still installing the old Dynojet because they moved shops. i think everything will be done on the Mustang because he likes it more. im not brave enough to do a stock dyno on the shitty stock tune so im either going to do a stage 1 or 2 E-tune from Torque Performance as a bench mark, then come back for a pro tune with everything below but the GT30. so basically ill have everything to max out the stock VF52 but an EWG, prove that little bugger can hit well over 300 on any dyno, then finish her up with the GT30.

mods should be..

EXHAUST
Perrin EL header
Perrin 2.0" Big UP
Invidia Catless DP
QTP 3" Cutout in mid pipe
TXS CBE

INTAKE
TXS CAI (just the pipe)
My 3" inlet
TXS FMIC
TXS RFL BOV
MY Blow through
JDM manifold, no TGV's
Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers
air pump deleted with kstech block off's

FUELING
parallel fuel lines
Walbro 255
DW 750cc
Aeromotive FPR

SUSPENSION and Drive
STI SS
Group-N tranny mount
TiC cross bushings
TiC front SS bushings
Kartboy rear SS bushings
Perrin subframe lock down kit
Whiteline diff bushings
RCE Yellow springs 330 lbs
Koni adjustable shocks
18.9 lbs RH evo wheels 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18

MISC.
Grimmspeed 3-port
AEM MAP
ATP GT30 turbo
 
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#237 ·
As for those wilwood's, not the lightweight ones. Just thinking from before when you were talking about the lighter ones to shave weight. Unless I was looking at the wrong ones, those were described as definitely not for track days as the lower weight=less thermal mass=less fade resistance.
 
#241 ·
i cant find anything but this...

Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Bolt-On Brake Kits

both say race and 1 is superlight and the other not. the not has a huge rotor so now the question, light weight or more braking surface area. not sure if they fit my car because the wrx kit is to new i guess. ill have to do some more digging.

EDIT, links not taking me to the right page, the 2 road race 6 pots are the superlite 6A and W6A.
 
#239 ·
Lets try to keep the feedback constructive folks? Ok?

I think there's a difference though between debating the merits of a wing in general and in specific. In general, lots of cars need wings and they are very important parts. In specific, most cars never reach speeds where they add any benefit whatsoever and most wings are not functional. I don't know how functional the wing you bought is, I have my doubts. I also don't know what events you do where you'd reach those high speeds. Those things said, of course there are situations where wings are extremely important pieces of equipment. I just can't think of any legitimate reason to put one on a car that doesn't already have, just for example, a roll cage. Just saying.

To each his own.
 
#242 ·
here is my thought on the performance.

the wing has a raised lip about 2" high on the back side. im sure the overall height has to be taken into consideration so the air coming over the roof doesnt go above or under the wing and the lip. now from looking at pics of real $1300 wings on this car, it seems to be in about the right spot. will a wind tunnel wing and the car be number 1 on the list? of course. but i cant see any wing actually hurting performance, only just doing nothing at all.

wings also have 1 or 2 jobs. 1. stop rear end lift. this is what the OEM 11 STI wing does and we all know it works. at the nurburgring the car went around in 7:55!!!! and that average speed was only 97 mph. so to me you dont have to be going that fast for a wing to come into play. the 2nd job along with number 1 is to produce down force. these are the big ass racing wings we all see.

now i cant say if this wing stops rear end lift but from just the height of the lip it cant not produce down force if even only a pound or two. the wing also has 3 height/pitch adjustments. on the highest setting the wing is almost like a brick all (looks like a Veyron hitting the brakes and that wing has no lip, just a flat board). i dont care if the wing stands are to low or to high because on the highest pitch setting its gonna hit the wind and act like a parachute! this WILL make some down force. again, im not sure how much and im sure others out there can do better but im not looking to race and compete at the highest level. if i get a little bit of down force at 100+ then my lap times should show a better number then without a wing at all and thats fine with me.
 
#246 ·
Please keep these key things in mind with wings:

-All wings add drag
-All drag is bad
-Some wings (good wings) provide Downforce
-Even a good wing can be bad for a car if it's not providing a beneficial amount of downforce for the drag it kicks out

Many race cars take off their wings on courses where they cannot exeed a certain speed (usually in the 130-150mph range) or only have to go straight at those speeds. Downforce is often not worth the drag.

Another key point is that the angle of the wing matters A FRIGGIN' TON! and the correct angle for the wing varies on the speed you'll be going and the aerodynamics of your car. If you're buying a generic piece without an adjustable angle mount, you just bought a useless piece of garbage. If you do not do testing to determine the correct wing angle, you wouldn't even be able to utilize a good wing anyway.

And yes, the 2011 STi wing is SOMEWHAT useful. But not very useful. The last wing like that (the 04-07) was completely without ANY function. The new one is at least capable of actually providing a little downforce. That said, if you think you need a wing like that to go around the ring in 7:55, you're crazy. The wing isn't contributing a large amount to that time. The car isn't going fast enough 95%+ of the time for the wing to even do something on a race course like that with a stock STi's power/weight ratio.
 
#247 ·
Boom.

If you look at Kognitions website they have TONS of info on the downforce/drag/hp consumption of their wings at various AOT's as well as span lengths. I know their wing for the WRX/STI will produce a minimum of about 70 lbs of downforce (6* AOT at 60mph) to 1150 lbs (18* at 200mph). Obviously not going to hit 200, but even a modest attack angle combined with 130ish speeds and a 60" span length saps about 20hp and adds a good 55-60 of induced/parasitis drag.

Maybe I'll put their largest wing on my wife's Corolla and see how fast I can get it it up to before/after. I bet I would loose a good 10mph in top speed.
 
#248 ·
dont get me wrong i agree and see the point in all this, but lets face it, i dont have a wind tunnel. i also wont be going to one either. in the end my guess is as good as anyones. also in the end i will have no way in telling if me going around mid ohio for example at 1:35 could be a 1:30 if i threw that $1300 wing on. because id have to spend $1300 to find out and its not gonna happen.
 
#250 ·
since i have a FMIC i heard that blocking off the scoop helps pull air through it. not sure if thats true but i did need to block it off! winter around here just makes the engine bay look like crap! blocking it off should help that and since i dont really like the look of a 2.5i hood and i didnt want to spend $100 on the Grillcraft i once again made my own. and with stuff laying around it was all free.

i did the same as the lower grill, used 1/8" steel round bar, bent it into the shape of the scoop, then welded the ends together. then i cut out a piece of plastic and used stainless steel safety wire to secure it to the round bar. i just used the safety wire to punch little baby holes after i heated up a piece with a candle. then i used more wire and more holes to secure the grill stuff to the plastic. because the wire is like 0.030" you cant see any of it and its super strong stuff. last i just plastic dip painted it and done. O, also made 4 tiny holes again behind the block off on both sides of the scoop and tied it down. its pretty stiff! i will use black RTV silcone behind the block off and make it 100% air tight. right now though its like 95% blocked off.







 
#251 ·
I really believe some air is better than no air. I can't see how blocking the top scoop off helps bring more air down below. Sounds like smokers sitting around a campfire and talking physics.

Good job on the block off
 
#252 ·
It tends to hold true... Creating a low pressure zone in the engine bay by blocking off the scoop helps draw in more air through any other available openings.

That's partly why I got the hood I did. My vents face backwards so I know between the air pressure under the hood and the air running across it, I'm drawing hot air out of the engine bay (at least more than the stock hood).

Obligatory it's just physics man!
 
#254 ·
so im not sure im happy today. Blackstone says one thing but my 09 reports say another. am i over thinking this? anyways just wanted to post this up.

my first report on my 09 was with Mobil 1 5w30 and this was the 4th oil change at 9k. the oil before was Mobil 1 5w30, the oil before that was regular Valvoline 5w30 and the first oil change was also Valvoline 5w30. from 9k on ward i only used Redline 5w30.

my new report is obviously at 7k and new Redline 5w40 and this is its 3rd oil change. oil before was Redline 5w30 and oil before that was Redline 5w30.

i told blackstone a lot of tuning went on during this oil; like 20 full throttle runs at least. thing is though some tuning went on with all the 09 oil too.

im just shocked how much aluminium and copper the 11 has as the 09 never got that high. im also weirded out why the Molybdenum is so much lower. i wonder if its the 5w40.



 
#255 · (Edited)
Not trying to be a smart ass here, but why not stick to the factory recommended weight and brand. Subaru has their own brand of synthetic for 11 and up right? I think there was a write up subaru's performance magazine.

My friend just lost a bearing on his built Evo from running a thicker oil than factory specs.
 
#256 ·
no offence taken here, no worries.

based off of "stock" (like cattle) where the oil comes from/made from, i would say no one has anything over Redline's polyol-ester blend besides Motul; its an almost pure synthetic. also with the insanely high numbers of micro lubricants in Redline (molybdenum, phosphorus, and zinc) i doubt subi is any better and i doubt they even match. throwing a bearing with all 3 of them in high numbers you'd really have to screw up somewhere! i dont know your friends weight but i can say 100% throwing a bearing wasnt due to a heavier weight in an evo, stock or modified, unless it was gear oil. 400, 500, 600+ hp evo's i can promise dont run a factory weight when racing.

weight is a broad spectrum for temps and what the motor can handle. the biggest danger one could be in is a heavier weight on start up like a 10w, 20w etc if its to cold. once hot the motor is fine running a grade or 2 higher. my motor wasnt meant to increase power by 60% per cylinder! the slightly heavier weight performs a hell of a lot better when racing and increased cylinder temps. the last thing you want is pre-mature break down and your oil to run like water with 420bph going around a track. most guys even use a 0w40-0w50 when racing. id say every person of knowledge on nasioc runs a 40 weight.

biggest reasons for spun bearings- old/dirty oil, low oil, beating on a cold motor (oil you do have isnt hot enough to get into the space and let it nicely spin), worn out from abuse, clearance issues, vibration (un-balanced), over revving stretches the rod and the bearing spins out, coolant or gas in oil lowering viscosity, or to much boost/power crushing or squashing the bearings during the lift or fall of the rods. some of these dont apply to the main bearings.
 
#257 ·
decided to do my 5th grill tonight. i dont know if ill ever get a true functioning rear diffuser so i wanted to get rid of the rear parachute we call a bumper. now looking under the car the spare tire compartment does have a 1" lip coming off of it at an angle. this is so air hits the lip and gets blasted under the bumper and not up into the bumper. the problem is a ton of air still gets up in there from the sides and everywhere else. and i know this because its very dirty in there, lots of dirty water splashes from one side of the bumper to the other.

now im hoping this acts to let some of the air escape and not create so much drag. there's no way to measure this but i think it looks good it better than nothing.

 
#259 ·
yes, i talked a little about it on page 15 and 16.

this is the current numbers and tune thats on the car with the exhaust cutout closed. 21ish psi tapering to 16.5psi and 23 degrees up top. this summer with better fuel i hope for maybe 23-24psi tapering to 16.5psi but with another 1-3 degrees of timing. that should crush the 400TQ mark and hopfully put me into a nice 340's HP range.

 
#263 ·
I love aggression!

finally got the lip i always wanted. i dont know what it is about HT Auto in the UK but i love the look of their stuff! problem is they are so expensive, specially because of shipping. well...now they have a US dealer finally. the lip shipped was almost $60 cheaper than its ever been before.

the fit and supplies and finish are amazing!! its like a OEM piece. all the holes are pre-drilled and 6 or 7 of them use the OEM type plastic pop rivet things that hold our bumpers to the car and those holes use the OEM holes. that means no aligning yourself! just pop them in and your done! simple as can be. they also come with 7 washers, nuts and bolts to drill into your bumper if you want to really make it secure and close off any gaps you see.

and to boot i hope it provides some down force from its down turned angle. what i think im going to do now is make an aluminium skid guard/front splitter kind of thing. i want the air flow under the car to act like a race car since ill be tracking one day. basically from the lip to the front axle will be a solid plate smooth as a babies butt. im sure ill use more then 3 mounting locations but ill start off using the 3 OEM mounting locations for the OEM under tray. i will just built it in sections and add long hollow tubes and then get very long 12mm bolts to hold it on. i hope the pictures explain what this will look like!











 
#265 ·
so i decided to go a different route with the current motor set up. someone showed me some interesting things about blow through i never seen before. i knew the MAF volts, g/sec, boost and AFR were all a little wacky from it but i didnt know how much. im still not convinced that anything was dangerous because the car ran like a dream!! but because im OCD i needed everything to be perfect and smooth!!

so today i swapped my blow through 3" MAF housing over to my CAI and added a large nipple to my TXS RFL BOV and a spot on the CAI. i still need to paint and re-shorten my MAF wire harness. but the install went ok and i like the way it turned out.

so far we have just been working on the MAF scaling since it was setup for BT and now its a 73mm big CAI. tomorrow i will be doing some WOT runs hopefully and we will see if i gain/lose any power. one thing i do know for sure is the maps will look 100 times better!!

here is my boost, my AFR and engine load, and MAF volts







here is what a normal draw through setups should look like, big difference!



 
#266 ·
so i been looking into brake kits for the track. there are a lot out there and companies like Wilwood have about 30 calipers and all are used for something different. after lots of reading i decided to go with a W6A with a stainless steel piston vs their more expensive Thermlock caliper. these things are massive and they are supposed to be paired with a 14" by 1.25" rotor! the OEM 12" rotor by 1" i believe is very small and weighs in at 17lbs. i havnt decided if i want to use their rotor which is a lot of money or go with a centric blanks. the issue with the centric is ill have to find a car that runs the same size. if i do go with their set up the total weight for the caliper, hat and rotor will only be 27lbs. the OEM setup is 30lbs! its insane you get that big of a kit and its lighter. of course if i go with the centrics its gain at least 5lbs and maybe more.





 
#267 ·
OMG like a kid on xmas! so i got tired of my iphone protector lens being scratched and all the crappy, halo pics i've been taking!! so i smashed out the lens and holy hell i forgot how clear the pics can be! i'll have to get some tomorrow of the car so i can have some good looking ones.

SEE??!!







PS still tuning summer tune :( it will be done and looking good though :)
 
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