2011 wrx build :) - Page 5 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#61 Old 09-21-2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RcrsWetDream View Post
Super late response.... You're not necessarily flowing more gas through the system when you put a bigger turbo on the car. One could argue that because it's a larger turbo there will be more exhaust coming out of the cylinders due to more fuel and air...

My theory is that even though there may be more exhaust coming at it because of the larger turbo, you need to divert less and less exhaust gas to regulate boost as turbine size increases. To me that would be a pretty linear relationship. The larger turbine forces more air into the engine via the compressor wheel, but that turbine needs xx% more exhaust flow to create boost. I will say that there is probably slightly more exhaust gas created than the extra gas required to spool the turbo, but until I can get some actual CFM numbers it's all just a theory in my head.

Keep in mind my theory is based on turbine size... If you have a turbo that has a small turbine but a giant compressor wheel then I say you need to upsize the wastegate. Running a 7cm turbine on a gt30+ sized turbo I acn see creating some boost spikes in the mid range if you can't get enough gas around that tiny housing. For my use, I'm looking at a 10cm on a gt30+sized turbo so I need less diversion.

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#62 Old 09-21-2011, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
I think thats the biggest mistake done on any car. 3K OCI's are the most important.
what is? 3k oil changes?

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#63 Old 09-21-2011, 07:59 PM
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I think he means that some people don't change it at 3k and that is the biggest mistake.

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#64 Old 09-22-2011, 07:59 AM
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O ok.


What I did for the oil leak was found a pic of a Crawford AOS cut in half. Both the crank and valve vents enter the main chamber together. Then they can drain back to the crank vent (the back one by the turbo, the same one that enters the AOS). So basically the crank vent hose comes out of the block, into the AOS and back to the block. The valves also can dump there "stuff" into the AOS, then it all drains back to the crank vent or "block".

So what I did was make a AOS that looks just like their's. I took my catch can and made a baffle like their's where a second chamber has some little holes for oil to enter if need be but it also has a drain on it so it will flow back out. Then the top nipple sits inside and "should" suck up nothing but air. However at the moment I have no place to mount it while I'm TMIC. So what i did was kind of what you said. Before the valve vents dumped almost right onto the ground. Now they run high up to the top of the IM to a tee. Instead of then running it under the car then I ran it to the Y piece where the PCV used to be. So if valve oil does blast out it can go 2 places, back to the block or out the crank breather and onto the floor. I figure if the AOS is already connecting them together and draining them together back to the crank vent why not do it sooner.

This is only for the time being till I get all my 09 stuff swapped and get my FMIC back on. Then ill split the lines up, run to my AOS, then back to block. Only thing is instead of running a line back to the inlet my AOS will just have a filter on top. I hope it's semi large volume will be enough so oil doesn't come out of the filter.

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#65 Old 09-24-2011, 12:29 PM
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finished up my copy of the Crawford AOS V1. was pretty easy to do! if i wanted to copy the V2 it wouldn’t be hard since they just run a tube through the main chamber which just uses coolant radiant heat to warm it up. from the pic you can see air/oil enters the main chamber from the crank and valve vents which then drains back to the crank case. if any oil does get into the second chamber from the top air holes you can see there is a drain for the second chamber which will allow oil to go back to the main chamber and then to the crank case. i dont think im gonna run the top nipple back to the inlet. i already closed off all the nipple's i did have on the 3” inlet i already made, so a little filter will do just fine. i wrinkle black painted the can (OF COURSE ) which is drying right so ill post a pic later. all in all not bad for only about $10!!!! instead of $385! i did all the "welding" with the Durafix imitation rods i had which i said would be left over and good to use for later projects, just like this


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#66 Old 09-25-2011, 11:15 AM
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pics




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#67 Old 09-27-2011, 01:14 PM
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finished with AOS, also someone photoshop my car to be.






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#68 Old 09-28-2011, 07:04 PM
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VOTE for exhaust

so i didnt want to sell my TXS CBE specially because i have a 3" cutout in the mid pipe. i saw an 11 with a TXS CBE and it looks ok. however im supposed to have quad tips and not dual. so for $100 i can change that.

1. dual???

2. quad???









PS my old car is for sale!!!!

i think its kinda weird the price is the 09 base model price back in 09 brand new with zero miles!!! pics look good though.

Used 2009 Subaru Impreza WRX For Sale in Brunswick OH | JF1GE76619G521615

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#69 Old 09-28-2011, 08:51 PM
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I kinda like the dual, quad is to much.

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#70 Old 09-29-2011, 06:44 AM
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I'm more for the quad because that's what the openings are made for, I wouldn't pick that dual dip you have pictured tho, I prefer something with thinner walls like the OEM exhaust has on it.

The price on your old car is rediculous... That's about $50 less than I paid for my car brand new (plus tax).

-Chris
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#71 Old 09-29-2011, 07:45 AM
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Honestly, I'm still on the AOS.

Do you have a check valve on the breather element?

Also, yes... I meant the 3K changes are vital.


I vote dual.

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#72 Old 09-29-2011, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RcrsWetDream View Post
I'm more for the quad because that's what the openings are made for, I wouldn't pick that dual dip you have pictured tho, I prefer something with thinner walls like the OEM exhaust has on it.

The price on your old car is rediculous... That's about $50 less than I paid for my car brand new (plus tax).
Sadly that's the shortest tip I can find. All others are 10" or more which will put the tips beyond the bumper. The tip in the pic is only 7.5" and when I cut what I need to it will be about 6.5 which is what the big single 4" tip is. As you can see its flush with the bumper. I hate my SPT because it's 2-3" into the bumper and the underside looks like crap and is turning black!

Hey at least is has some new nuts and bolts, battery, wheels, tires, STI wing

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#73 Old 09-29-2011, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
Honestly, I'm still on the AOS.

Do you have a check valve on the breather element?

Also, yes... I meant the 3K changes are vital.


I vote dual.
Why would I need a check valve on the filter? Normally that line would run to the inlet which would see constant vacuum. So far it's bone dry and working so I could run that top line to the CAI when I install it.

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#74 Old 09-29-2011, 11:40 AM
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Then why is it slanted over ? Hitting the hood?

Remember, I don't have a Subie anymore... Haven't looked under a hood in quite sometime

Paul
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#75 Old 09-29-2011, 04:06 PM
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Ahhhh.

Ya i put that hose on there cause the filter was to tall. I had to mount the can as high as possible so it would drain back to the block correctly. It's also only temporary till I can mount the can where the TMIC is, then draining and everything won't be as difficult to do and hoses will be much shorter.

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