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2011 wrx build :)

128K views 314 replies 22 participants last post by  mosc 
#1 ·
just thought id post up the new build thats gonna happen. im gonna do what i did last time with all my parts but going a few new route's starting with this little guy...



its a one piece JDM version 8 spec C manifold, no TGV's, and should be a first on an 11. this isnt my pic and mines pretty dirty so im gonna have grimmspeed port it out and i'll wrinkle black paint it. my TXS FMIC came with piping for the STI and WRX manifolds so install should be pretty easy. im still going to do parallel fuel lines again but this time im gonna cut my fuel rail ends to make nipples and flare them out so i can get a better flow design out of them because im also going to be adding a aeromotive FPR which will need mounted some where off the manifold like the firewall.

im also not sticking with my ewg UP. not that much room and if you can tell i want stuff no one else has. dont get me wrong, im definently sticking with a ewg but its gonna go on this guy...






ATP GT3076R or GTX3076R. now this is made for a 44mm ewg but im gonna have an adaptor made so i can run my 38mm and keep the price down. plus some people think small turbos should have large EWG's and large turbos should have small. i dont know if i believe it but it should be interesting to see this setup.

i might end up doing how to's for all of this and i know people might ask or say a lot is going to be involved which i havnt stated. i know this and not everything is going to be cut and dry but should be fun to find out.

my tuner is now on a brand new Mustang dyno and there still installing the old Dynojet because they moved shops. i think everything will be done on the Mustang because he likes it more. im not brave enough to do a stock dyno on the shitty stock tune so im either going to do a stage 1 or 2 E-tune from Torque Performance as a bench mark, then come back for a pro tune with everything below but the GT30. so basically ill have everything to max out the stock VF52 but an EWG, prove that little bugger can hit well over 300 on any dyno, then finish her up with the GT30.

mods should be..

EXHAUST
Perrin EL header
Perrin 2.0" Big UP
Invidia Catless DP
QTP 3" Cutout in mid pipe
TXS CBE

INTAKE
TXS CAI (just the pipe)
My 3" inlet
TXS FMIC
TXS RFL BOV
MY Blow through
JDM manifold, no TGV's
Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers
air pump deleted with kstech block off's

FUELING
parallel fuel lines
Walbro 255
DW 750cc
Aeromotive FPR

SUSPENSION and Drive
STI SS
Group-N tranny mount
TiC cross bushings
TiC front SS bushings
Kartboy rear SS bushings
Perrin subframe lock down kit
Whiteline diff bushings
RCE Yellow springs 330 lbs
Koni adjustable shocks
18.9 lbs RH evo wheels 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18

MISC.
Grimmspeed 3-port
AEM MAP
ATP GT30 turbo
 
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#114 ·
others have said a tumor haha. i have a 45* 2.75" to 2.5" reducer on the way. ill have to adjust the pipe or make some new ones but it will work and look better.
 
#115 ·
thinking about keeping this car for a change. normally i get rid of a car every year or 2. im thinking of turning it into a GT car or road racer in about 1-2 years. any ideas?? i have come aross this so far...



 
#118 ·
i like it for the race track.

no not really, busted knuckles, long nights, knees hurt like hell from being bent over the engine for hours on end. no beer involved or i probably would of only worked 4-5 hours max haha.
 
#119 ·
i took the wrx and sti piping and started cutting where i needed bends and stuff. the MAF housing i did add 3" to both sides and yes i used the brazing stuff. then im slowing starting to get rid of all the couplings so ill be brazing that as well. heres one so far...



its kinda hard to use, just takes time. i started with propane then went to MAP gas. i found that putting a layer on both sides of the crack first then filling in the crack with a back and forth motion works best. you can only do about an inch at a time because the pipe isnt hot enough further away. BUT the pipe is hot enough in that area that round pipe wants to drip and flow down the pipe instead of staying still. so i just go around the pipe 2-3 times and layer it up a bit like a thicker weld and just make sure to look for pin holes or any raised areas.
 
#122 ·
haha all I see is that Yakima with the downtube clamp, kills me a little inside to think of a bike going up there dropping rocks and gravel all over the car. I will rack mine for skis and the board, but my bike rides on my other car. Of course it is a big 45lb freeride bike with 2.5" tires that grab alot of rocks and dirt but I digress...
 
#124 ·
Can't wait to hear the numbers.

I read through the thread, but I didn't really pick up on why you decided to start over. Did you just like the widebody, or did you get a good trade. I remember when my car was only two years old and the dealership offered almost as much as I paid for it to trade it in. I should have taken it.
 
#125 ·
i traded in a work truck on the 09 so i had some negative and the interest was kinda high because of it. getting the 11 the payment droped about a $100 a month which i needed (broke college guy). yes i love the look better and i really wanted white! i was also scared of the 09 needing work like a clutch and the front end really needed a paint job! instead of paying all that money on the 09 i got a new clutch, motor, tranny, white etc. and yes the dealer gave me a good deal. i paid invoice $23000 back in 09 and they gave me $20500 with a long hard 36k miles.
 
#127 ·
so my last weigh in was today since i just completed the motor and everything. theres not much else to lose besides a CF trunk and hood but im pretty happy! 3090 lbs fully fueled. makes me happy because its lighter than my 09 since i removed a little more and when i go to the strip it will only weigh 3020 lbs! if and when i get CF parts it will be under 3000 :)

also since im toying with the GT build ill need brakes. people with the new Wilwood 4 pot fronts lost almost 30 lbs there too so it will be a for sure thing under 3000 lbs. i'd probably want the 6 pot so it might only be 10-20 lbs then.
 
#134 ·
i started making AOS's today for the people who want them. look at my pics and you'll see what im talking about (page 5). only things that are different is everything is 1/2 now instead of 3/8 and the top and sides are welded; there not brass fittings anymore. also the bottom is not a plastic fitting, its brass now.
 
#135 ·
i changed my oil and tranny fluid today. i figured id give the tranny a little more break in time (3497 miles) than the motor. im glad i didnt wait any longer. i just hate the idea of break in oils staying in something for so long! i mean the tranny oil stays in there till 30k! i believe subi uses synthetic now for everything (which i dont like the idea for motor oil when its brand new!!) but it was still time for a change.

im keeping with RedLine but i decided to go with 5w40 instead of 5w30. im still getting oil in my turbo compressor like the 09 from the seals so im hoping the thicker weight will be better. this was the motors 2nd change with 3000 miles on it and the first was done at 400 something. next change im going to do an oil analysis and compare it to my 09 results. since i have an AOS now i want to see the results of a full 3000 mile change where water from condensation and blow by are allowed to get back into the block. on the 09 i just had a catch can so nothing could get back. i HOPE everything is the same and the numbers are not too far off.

as for the tranny, since subi now uses synthetic i can say i did not feel a difference like i did on my 09. however for only 3497 miles it looked like shit. our drain plugs are magnetic and i had a ton of metal shavings all over it. you can see in the pics. if you guys haven’t done this yet on brand new trannys id do it ASAP. since the magnet was so covered in metal who knows if there was room for anymore to stick to it. during the drain i hope everything came out if there was something. i used RedLine 75w90 NS per RedLines recommendation. ill be doing the rear diff tomorrow because i dont have a pump to get it into the diff. the diff will use just 75w90. If you do change your tranny fluid be warned, it smells like dead fish and shit. :)





 
#136 ·
so i got bored tonight. i was looking at some pics of the Grillcraft stuff and i figured i can do that! so i went to home depot and got some mesh stuff back in the concrete section. 2'x8' is all they had but it was only $7.50. then i got a few 1/4x48" steel rods for $3 a each. ¼” small was really easy to bend in my hands. then i just got to work. bent it where i needed it bent and welded the ends together.

after the bending i cut the mesh and zip tied it down to my outline structure if you will. i tried to weld it but the mesh would just exploded. being paper thin it was just too hard to weld to 1/4" thick rod. then i welded a few 1" rods on and drilled a few holes in my bumper. then i just zip tied everything down but not before i did a few coats of Plasti Dip paint.

the main reasons i want this is my FMIC looks like shit from winters (yes I even tried sanding to remove the corrosion). also when i was cutting my bumper out for the FMIC i slipped twice with the razor blade and made a few boo boo's. now with this dark block kind of thing it hides everything pretty damn good. i just hope in the summer it doesn’t kill my FMIC by not letting it cool off enough. i know people said this was a problem with the Grillcraft piece when running it and a TMIC.

since i no longer have a TMIC i need the hood scope blocked off. i hate how dirty the engine gets in winter and since my TB and mani are reversed my TB connector and wires are exposed right there in the hole. water and snow cannot be good for them. im going to do the same thing with the mesh but im going to then make a plate and block the scoop off all together. i just need some thin steel plate, weld, zip tie, and paint.

what do you guys think? Ill get better pics tomorrow in the sun. well if there is such thing anymore around here!!




 
#138 ·
I would find a permanent way to mount the grille though... Zip ties don't last too long in the sun.

Also, I ran a test with the mesh that came with my CF hood and you'd be surprised how much it disturbs airflow past it. Take a piece and put it between your hand and a fan, you'll hopefully see what I'm talking about. Not sure if it just evens out the air so you don't feel it as much, or if it really does block some airflow.

Either way, that's a pretty good job ya did there.
 
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