2011 wrx build :) - Page 3 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#31 Old 09-04-2011, 03:41 PM
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ok i posted this on nasico and the front bumper black piece will be cut off for the FMIC install and my black perrin plate delete will cover the holes.

i apologize for whos cars these are but i havn't gotten mine yet.

could someone black out (or what im gonna do is Hexis vinyl carbon)
1. hood
2. roof
3. trunk
4. only the flat plane on the rear wing
5. window chrome
6. rear trunk chrome piece
7. mirrors
8. plastic piece on front bumper
9. plastic piece around fog lights
10. add my flat black wheels from my DGM WRX

pretty please?????????????






Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#32 Old 09-04-2011, 10:18 PM
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I tried and it is beyond my skill bud. Sorry.

My name is Ken and I am a HP Junkie.
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#33 Old 09-04-2011, 10:24 PM
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Yeah to make it look good....you have to know how to do shading and light effects. Its more than just color. The people that work with it for a living could knock it out in a hour or two. But, the average person can't do it. Because its a skill.

Kirt
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"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#34 Old 09-05-2011, 06:34 AM
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Mine just comes out way to dark...
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#35 Old 09-06-2011, 04:34 PM
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basically the parallel mod insures all cylinders are receiving the same amount of fuel, with subarus factory system the number 3 cylinder tends to be a bit lean

FP GT35R MoTeC M800 AndrewTech PPG'd Wagon - 513AWHP
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- Matt
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#36 Old 09-06-2011, 09:13 PM
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so got another blow today but not a big one.

i knew i needed a spacer for my TB to the IM (however i had no idea why since 06+ JDM manifold also use a DBW TB.) however my IM is a DBC and the 4 bolt holes dont line up. my TB is bigger. so instead of a spacer i need to make 2 thin plates (one looking like the JDM DBC gasket and one looking like a US DBW gasket.) with a pipe about 1/2 in length welding them together. now i say a US DWB gasket and not my gasket because i dont have a gasket. on our plastic manifolds for the TB and TGV's we have grooves cut into the manifold and little silicone rings are used instead.

basically i need to make the IM plate have enough of a gap from the TB plate so a bolt can slide in and bolt it down to the IM. then the TB plates needs to have threaded holes in it so the TB has something to bolt down to. i also need to do this because the IM uses 12mm bolts and the TB uses 10mm bolts and i dont feel like drilling out my TB or doing anything to the IM and messing it up.

PS also need to install 180* clocked vs the 90* i was thinking. 180* will clear the alternator better and at part throttle not allow all the air to be entering just one side.

here’s some pics if anyone cares.








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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#37 Old 09-06-2011, 09:22 PM
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anyone know what this is? our TB dont have MAP or MAF sensors on them so i dont know.

am i correct in thinking this brings air into it or pushes it out from atmos and that it has nothing to do with the manifold its self??

if this is bolted down to a flat plate there should be no issues correct since it has a deep channel to get air in and out?


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#38 Old 09-13-2011, 03:13 PM
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decided to get rid of the gold. yes it was expensive and im sure it stopped a little heat but i love the wrinkle black look!!





also didnt feel like spending $130 on a heavy weight shift knob.

2" trailer hitch with the threads cut off weighed 704 grams, 4 more than the heaviest shift knob you can buy. im sure 2.5", 3" etc will weigh even more.

just cut the threads, drill a hole, tap, done. still need to paint or powder coat, thinking flat black.


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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#39 Old 09-14-2011, 06:00 AM
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Thought you were gettin an '11 ?

Paul
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#40 Old 09-14-2011, 07:56 AM
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He is, just getting all the stuff off the 09 to go onto the 11 so he can have the same car but white with wider fenders

Sorry man, I gotta facepalm at the shift knob. Not my style, my cobb is lighter than stock and still feels 100x better just because of how low it sits compared to stock.

-Chris
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#41 Old 09-14-2011, 08:30 AM
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Makes sense, not following all of it apparently.

Paul
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#42 Old 09-14-2011, 08:23 PM
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Hmmmm so I'm liking the black wrinkle paint finish now....

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#43 Old 09-14-2011, 08:36 PM
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yes getting an 11, remember though im still saving $100 a month on payment and dont have to worry about all the paint chips with rust, 36k motor, tranny, and clutch and who knows how long they were gonna last. now i have piece of mind for a few years.

UPDATE.

finished up the inlet tube and





also finished the layout of the reversed JDM IM and where the MAF will go for blow through. added 2.5" of 3" pipe also on each side so its 10" total and should be better for readings and tuning.


me rikey the wrinkle also so i did the shifter too. the added weight will help with fast smooth shifting. this sucker is over a pound and a half.


also getting the car tomorrow!!!! i pretty much have everything done so i just might be the only person to have a 2011 car with 5 miles and will add about 120hp in a day or two after tearing the entire thing apart

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#44 Old 09-14-2011, 08:39 PM
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You only live about 3 hrs from me. We need to meet up next time I'm at Summit Racing.

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#45 Old 09-14-2011, 08:45 PM
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also decided to not do ANY oil catch can this time. my cans never filled with oil anywho, just water from condensation! so i decided to just run lines for the crank case and valve vents down under the car with hose. i think ill put filters on them, maybe. any blow by that is produced will just have to run down the lines and drop onto the floor.

PS i did test this on the valve vents for about 2 weeks and 500 miles and both hoses are bone dry at there tips (about 2 inches in). break your motor in right and you can do this.

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