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2011 wrx build :)

128K views 314 replies 22 participants last post by  mosc 
#1 ·
just thought id post up the new build thats gonna happen. im gonna do what i did last time with all my parts but going a few new route's starting with this little guy...



its a one piece JDM version 8 spec C manifold, no TGV's, and should be a first on an 11. this isnt my pic and mines pretty dirty so im gonna have grimmspeed port it out and i'll wrinkle black paint it. my TXS FMIC came with piping for the STI and WRX manifolds so install should be pretty easy. im still going to do parallel fuel lines again but this time im gonna cut my fuel rail ends to make nipples and flare them out so i can get a better flow design out of them because im also going to be adding a aeromotive FPR which will need mounted some where off the manifold like the firewall.

im also not sticking with my ewg UP. not that much room and if you can tell i want stuff no one else has. dont get me wrong, im definently sticking with a ewg but its gonna go on this guy...






ATP GT3076R or GTX3076R. now this is made for a 44mm ewg but im gonna have an adaptor made so i can run my 38mm and keep the price down. plus some people think small turbos should have large EWG's and large turbos should have small. i dont know if i believe it but it should be interesting to see this setup.

i might end up doing how to's for all of this and i know people might ask or say a lot is going to be involved which i havnt stated. i know this and not everything is going to be cut and dry but should be fun to find out.

my tuner is now on a brand new Mustang dyno and there still installing the old Dynojet because they moved shops. i think everything will be done on the Mustang because he likes it more. im not brave enough to do a stock dyno on the shitty stock tune so im either going to do a stage 1 or 2 E-tune from Torque Performance as a bench mark, then come back for a pro tune with everything below but the GT30. so basically ill have everything to max out the stock VF52 but an EWG, prove that little bugger can hit well over 300 on any dyno, then finish her up with the GT30.

mods should be..

EXHAUST
Perrin EL header
Perrin 2.0" Big UP
Invidia Catless DP
QTP 3" Cutout in mid pipe
TXS CBE

INTAKE
TXS CAI (just the pipe)
My 3" inlet
TXS FMIC
TXS RFL BOV
MY Blow through
JDM manifold, no TGV's
Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers
air pump deleted with kstech block off's

FUELING
parallel fuel lines
Walbro 255
DW 750cc
Aeromotive FPR

SUSPENSION and Drive
STI SS
Group-N tranny mount
TiC cross bushings
TiC front SS bushings
Kartboy rear SS bushings
Perrin subframe lock down kit
Whiteline diff bushings
RCE Yellow springs 330 lbs
Koni adjustable shocks
18.9 lbs RH evo wheels 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18

MISC.
Grimmspeed 3-port
AEM MAP
ATP GT30 turbo
 
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#28 ·
You'd need to submit a un-ms painted STI or other people would have to find their own photo. Because the ms paint job destroyed the features of the car. I have photoshop...but, i'm not the best with it.
 
#31 ·
ok i posted this on nasico and the front bumper black piece will be cut off for the FMIC install and my black perrin plate delete will cover the holes.

i apologize for whos cars these are but i havn't gotten mine yet.

could someone black out (or what im gonna do is Hexis vinyl carbon)
1. hood
2. roof
3. trunk
4. only the flat plane on the rear wing
5. window chrome
6. rear trunk chrome piece
7. mirrors
8. plastic piece on front bumper
9. plastic piece around fog lights
10. add my flat black wheels from my DGM WRX

pretty please?????????????





 
#33 ·
Yeah to make it look good....you have to know how to do shading and light effects. Its more than just color. The people that work with it for a living could knock it out in a hour or two. But, the average person can't do it. Because its a skill.
 
#35 ·
basically the parallel mod insures all cylinders are receiving the same amount of fuel, with subarus factory system the number 3 cylinder tends to be a bit lean
 
#36 ·
so got another blow today but not a big one.

i knew i needed a spacer for my TB to the IM (however i had no idea why since 06+ JDM manifold also use a DBW TB.) however my IM is a DBC and the 4 bolt holes dont line up. my TB is bigger. so instead of a spacer i need to make 2 thin plates (one looking like the JDM DBC gasket and one looking like a US DBW gasket.) with a pipe about 1/2 in length welding them together. now i say a US DWB gasket and not my gasket because i dont have a gasket. on our plastic manifolds for the TB and TGV's we have grooves cut into the manifold and little silicone rings are used instead.

basically i need to make the IM plate have enough of a gap from the TB plate so a bolt can slide in and bolt it down to the IM. then the TB plates needs to have threaded holes in it so the TB has something to bolt down to. i also need to do this because the IM uses 12mm bolts and the TB uses 10mm bolts and i dont feel like drilling out my TB or doing anything to the IM and messing it up.

PS also need to install 180* clocked vs the 90* i was thinking. 180* will clear the alternator better and at part throttle not allow all the air to be entering just one side.

here’s some pics if anyone cares.







 
#37 ·
anyone know what this is? our TB dont have MAP or MAF sensors on them so i dont know.

am i correct in thinking this brings air into it or pushes it out from atmos and that it has nothing to do with the manifold its self??

if this is bolted down to a flat plate there should be no issues correct since it has a deep channel to get air in and out?

 
#38 ·
decided to get rid of the gold. yes it was expensive and im sure it stopped a little heat but i love the wrinkle black look!!





also didnt feel like spending $130 on a heavy weight shift knob.

2" trailer hitch with the threads cut off weighed 704 grams, 4 more than the heaviest shift knob you can buy. im sure 2.5", 3" etc will weigh even more.

just cut the threads, drill a hole, tap, done. still need to paint or powder coat, thinking flat black.

 
#40 ·
He is, just getting all the stuff off the 09 to go onto the 11 so he can have the same car but white with wider fenders ROFL

Sorry man, I gotta facepalm at the shift knob. Not my style, my cobb is lighter than stock and still feels 100x better just because of how low it sits compared to stock.
 
#43 ·
yes getting an 11, remember though im still saving $100 a month on payment and dont have to worry about all the paint chips with rust, 36k motor, tranny, and clutch and who knows how long they were gonna last. now i have piece of mind for a few years.

UPDATE.

finished up the inlet tube and





also finished the layout of the reversed JDM IM and where the MAF will go for blow through. added 2.5" of 3" pipe also on each side so its 10" total and should be better for readings and tuning.


me rikey the wrinkle also so i did the shifter too. the added weight will help with fast smooth shifting. this sucker is over a pound and a half.


also getting the car tomorrow!!!! i pretty much have everything done so i just might be the only person to have a 2011 car with 5 miles and will add about 120hp in a day or two after tearing the entire thing apart :)
 
#45 ·
also decided to not do ANY oil catch can this time. my cans never filled with oil anywho, just water from condensation! so i decided to just run lines for the crank case and valve vents down under the car with hose. i think ill put filters on them, maybe. any blow by that is produced will just have to run down the lines and drop onto the floor.

PS i did test this on the valve vents for about 2 weeks and 500 miles and both hoses are bone dry at there tips (about 2 inches in). break your motor in right and you can do this.
 
#48 ·
PRETTY!!!!!!!!!!!!

no more ghetto gauge clusters crudely drilled into my dash and tray thing under the cigarette lighter!!

also the prosport boost gauge is electronic and should be so much more steady then a cheap autometer mechanical. also has a max boost setting with a BEEP or mute. it was made for these cars!!! white needle and red background! my wideband O2 is also red which matches very well!




heres a link with more pics and installed from someone else.
SMY Cluster / ProSport Gauge Review

o the clutster of everything that needs installed! should be "fun"!




 
#52 ·
OMG what a day! never been more tired!!! i had about 4-5 hours to swap both suspension setups, wheels/tire, fuel pumps, batteries, floor mats, little pop rivets here and there, low and high beam bulbs, little switch covers, put stuff like engine bay dress up back on the 09 and HOLY **** the new car did not want its suspension to come off or the race stuff to go back on. the control arms and everything are so new that there was no give at all!!!! my 09 everything just unbolted and was easy! i hope to never do that again!! 3 hours sleep didnt help either after my first big Nursing exam of the semester.

anywho, 2011 is here! so far it only has 7lbs (each) lighter wheels/tires, 15lb battery, walbro 255 fuel pump, and a STAGE 1 TUNE!!! i flashed that mo fo at 5.3 miles!! everything was going good till...BOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM...

god *$^@ TB coupling silicone slip thing blew the coupling off the TB!! i might be the only 30 mile car to break down!! i got it home because it was still kinda on there and you dont need boost to drive. i removed the silicone slips, hair sprayed the coupling and all is well!



well almost. i think my boost gauge is broke. i can get amber/amber, white/white, amber/white but NOT white/amber which i want. something isnt right. anywho a few pics.





 
#53 ·
while finding a way to install my Grimmspeed 3-port onto my JDM manifold i found this...



never noticed it before because they send it to you with the bracket already installed. i took the bracket off for the first time because i needed to do a little shaving for install on the mani. i really hope someone at GS or if they out source their stuff someone didnt try to hide this by installing the bracket!!! im 99% sure the screw is to tight and thats what cracked it but maybe there is a 1% chance that over 2 years of use it cracked from the hot and cold. idk but 2 years old it looks like im stuck with it.
 
#55 ·
Grimmspeed saw a post on nasioc and will be replacing it. There really really curious about why out of 10,000 units did this one crack. There sending me a new one and a return label. Have to give them props for A+ service!

UPDATE...

Decided to do a crank case and valve vent mod before the car gets any miles on it! Instead of doing a catch can this time I decided to dump the hoses onto the ground. Every catch can I've had would just fill up with water and after 3000 miles about a teaspoon of blow by junk. Were talking drops every week or so. While this is illegal for racing I'm not racing so I don't care. Each valve vent has it's own separate line running back toward to the fire wall and it pointed down and zip tied to the frame rails. There up high enough so water can't get in them from rain or puddles. The crank case was also done the same way. I plugged all the inlet holes so there's no boost leak and so far I only have a filter on the CC line. For safety I'll get 2 more filters and do the VV too.
 
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