Subaru WRX Forum (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/)
- Bolt-on Tech (EJ255/EJ257 2.5L 2008+ WRX, STi, and GT) (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/)
- - 2011 wrx build :) (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/)
2011 wrx build :)
just thought id post up the new build thats gonna happen. im gonna do what i did last time with all my parts but going a few new route's starting with this little guy...
its a one piece JDM version 8 spec C manifold, no TGV's, and should be a first on an 11. this isnt my pic and mines pretty dirty so im gonna have grimmspeed port it out and i'll wrinkle black paint it. my TXS FMIC came with piping for the STI and WRX manifolds so install should be pretty easy. im still going to do parallel fuel lines again but this time im gonna cut my fuel rail ends to make nipples and flare them out so i can get a better flow design out of them because im also going to be adding a aeromotive FPR which will need mounted some where off the manifold like the firewall.
im also not sticking with my ewg UP. not that much room and if you can tell i want stuff no one else has. dont get me wrong, im definently sticking with a ewg but its gonna go on this guy...
ATP GT3076R or GTX3076R. now this is made for a 44mm ewg but im gonna have an adaptor made so i can run my 38mm and keep the price down. plus some people think small turbos should have large EWG's and large turbos should have small. i dont know if i believe it but it should be interesting to see this setup.
i might end up doing how to's for all of this and i know people might ask or say a lot is going to be involved which i havnt stated. i know this and not everything is going to be cut and dry but should be fun to find out.
my tuner is now on a brand new Mustang dyno and there still installing the old Dynojet because they moved shops. i think everything will be done on the Mustang because he likes it more. im not brave enough to do a stock dyno on the shitty stock tune so im either going to do a stage 1 or 2 E-tune from Torque Performance as a bench mark, then come back for a pro tune with everything below but the GT30. so basically ill have everything to max out the stock VF52 but an EWG, prove that little bugger can hit well over 300 on any dyno, then finish her up with the GT30.
mods should be..
Perrin EL header
Perrin 2.0" Big UP
Invidia Catless DP
QTP 3" Cutout in mid pipe
TXS CAI (just the pipe)
My 3" inlet
TXS RFL BOV
MY Blow through
JDM manifold, no TGV's
Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers
air pump deleted with kstech block off's
parallel fuel lines
SUSPENSION and Drive
Group-N tranny mount
TiC cross bushings
TiC front SS bushings
Kartboy rear SS bushings
Perrin subframe lock down kit
Whiteline diff bushings
RCE Yellow springs 330 lbs
Koni adjustable shocks
18.9 lbs RH evo wheels 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18
ATP GT30 turbo
Might I ask why the parallel fuel rail mod? Looks like a good build over all, just not to sure on the whole big turbo little wastegate and vice versa. I'd have to see some hard proof to believe that.
rails- im not comfortable with a 4 foot long fuel rail. any pressure drop and good bye #4 or #3. i still havent decided which one is at more risk. #4 because its so far away from the FPR or #3 being so far away from the FP. either way they blow up a lot for some reason and about 350hp its just a good idea.
ya i have no proof either. makes kinda sense when you shift gears and you lose a little or a lot when the wastegate dumps xxx amount of your air. i dont know. i did talk to a engineer at Tial and he told me theres a million factors for which EWG to match to which turbo. i told him i really dont care about getting every little HP and he said they just went with the 44mm because its so versatile. plus selling my 38mm for like $200 something then having to throw down almost $400 is silly.
The bigger the turbo the smaller the wastegate is generally needed... Think about the purpose of the wastegate and it makes sense.
It's primary function is to regulate boost pressure. So if you have more air flowing through a system you'd need a bigger hole to regulate the larger amount of air...Unless I am over looking something, but I suppose it makes sense.
as far as the fuel rails, I don't see the need for it, then again I am running almost an entire stock fuel system other than injectors and a pump...Man I most be doing something wrong.
not doing anything wrong. i need lines anyway because of the custom mani, might as well hook them up in a parallel manor when im in there.
they're good at their propaganda but here
[url=http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/292]Perrin Performance - Fuel Rail Top Feed[/url]
Guess that makes sense then. I haven't really seen any proof that it makes a difference before, but I suppose if it works more power to ya.
well im trying to gain proof. these motor blow all the time. we can blame the tune, the fuel system, or something else.
Why the new mani, especially for someone like you who cares a lot about weight loss? Doesn't it add weight and have absolutely no performance gain over stock? Don't get me wrong I think its hella cool and have looked into doing it my self, but everybody I talk to says its a waste of time and money for no gain what so ever.
im not big on weight (just removed stuff that wasnt needed and liked that the car lost 200-300lbs) as i am on power and i do hate going composite to aluminium. however with only reading GS info about their phenolic spacers and threads where people say "i couldnt touch it before and now its cool to the touch" im taking a shot that they will help keep it cooler.
as for no power gains thats a total lie. think about it, im stock which means i have TGV's, and now i dont. thats a gain right there or no one would ever PnP them. GS TGV's are $200 plus KStech block offs at $65 and i just spent $400 but the mani came with everything. i can sell TB, rails and STI pinks not to mention my stock TGV's to GS for $100. in the end im making money ;)
i also dont like the bulkiness of the stock TGV's. when i go to put in my 3" inlet and go to a 3" turbo inlet i want all the room i can get. these runners are a lot thinner and should give me plenty of room along with the 8mm spacers that are coming. all in all in the end i think its a pretty good gain.
UPDATE, manifold, car and disappointments
so the manifold came and to my pissed off eyes all 4 pink injectors are broke. no idea how you can smash an injector on its head, dent it, bend it and crack the casing!! each fuel rail only had 1 bolt holding it down so someone messed with it. however the injectors had never been out of the rails in all of its years so...???
but i broke it all down and had my friends dad sand blast it. i got it home, cleaned it up, prepped it and blasted it with VHT black wrinkle paint that can handle 350 degrees. this stuff turned out great!! looks just like the OEM red and easy as hell to use since your trying to have a messy paint job and im in love.
the 2011 wrx is a disappointment because i told them i wanted my car with 6-10 miles like when they get to the dealer. they did not get the dealer swap done before they were unloaded off the boat from Japan so mine went to the original dealer 4 hours away. i doubt they even tried for it and could even get it but before that i said cancel it, i dont want some old dude or no-body putting 400 miles on my car driving it here.
so my dealer tells me they have another one coming in my color. however im pissed because its $1600 more with the SPT CBE, wing on the trunk and a bunch of other crap i dont want! for now this one is mine unless i get something else from someone else in the mean time.
Man I am having the reverse of your bad luck. My motor build is going faster than I had planned. Hope things work out for you.
p.s. I looked over those logs briefly the other day. I will look over them a bit better tomorrow since I got the day off...
speaking of reverse,
i am going reversed manifold. already made the piping from the TXS FMIC kit that comes with STI and WRX piping. i just used the STI piping and cut it up. im really not losing any length since the WRX going counter clockwise is already the best design but i have to because the layout of the STI is just horrible and retarded and i cant fit my oil catch can.
IMO, if you go reversed IM, go rotated. There is hardly any benefit to a stock turbo location and a reversed IM besides saying I have one.
I feel the perfect setup for reversed IM would be a vertically oriented FMIC (long core with tanks on top and bottom, sort of like the stock STI TMIC). Have the bottom tank inlet on the left side, and the top side tank will have a center exit.
problem with rotated on these cars is room. the ABS and stuff is in the way. going reversed manifold literally took zero effort. for some it may take a lot more because they might not have a FMIC kit like i did or have the right parts etc.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:58 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin®. Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.0.8pl1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2015 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.