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2011 wrx build :)

128K views 314 replies 22 participants last post by  mosc 
#1 ·
just thought id post up the new build thats gonna happen. im gonna do what i did last time with all my parts but going a few new route's starting with this little guy...



its a one piece JDM version 8 spec C manifold, no TGV's, and should be a first on an 11. this isnt my pic and mines pretty dirty so im gonna have grimmspeed port it out and i'll wrinkle black paint it. my TXS FMIC came with piping for the STI and WRX manifolds so install should be pretty easy. im still going to do parallel fuel lines again but this time im gonna cut my fuel rail ends to make nipples and flare them out so i can get a better flow design out of them because im also going to be adding a aeromotive FPR which will need mounted some where off the manifold like the firewall.

im also not sticking with my ewg UP. not that much room and if you can tell i want stuff no one else has. dont get me wrong, im definently sticking with a ewg but its gonna go on this guy...






ATP GT3076R or GTX3076R. now this is made for a 44mm ewg but im gonna have an adaptor made so i can run my 38mm and keep the price down. plus some people think small turbos should have large EWG's and large turbos should have small. i dont know if i believe it but it should be interesting to see this setup.

i might end up doing how to's for all of this and i know people might ask or say a lot is going to be involved which i havnt stated. i know this and not everything is going to be cut and dry but should be fun to find out.

my tuner is now on a brand new Mustang dyno and there still installing the old Dynojet because they moved shops. i think everything will be done on the Mustang because he likes it more. im not brave enough to do a stock dyno on the shitty stock tune so im either going to do a stage 1 or 2 E-tune from Torque Performance as a bench mark, then come back for a pro tune with everything below but the GT30. so basically ill have everything to max out the stock VF52 but an EWG, prove that little bugger can hit well over 300 on any dyno, then finish her up with the GT30.

mods should be..

EXHAUST
Perrin EL header
Perrin 2.0" Big UP
Invidia Catless DP
QTP 3" Cutout in mid pipe
TXS CBE

INTAKE
TXS CAI (just the pipe)
My 3" inlet
TXS FMIC
TXS RFL BOV
MY Blow through
JDM manifold, no TGV's
Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers
air pump deleted with kstech block off's

FUELING
parallel fuel lines
Walbro 255
DW 750cc
Aeromotive FPR

SUSPENSION and Drive
STI SS
Group-N tranny mount
TiC cross bushings
TiC front SS bushings
Kartboy rear SS bushings
Perrin subframe lock down kit
Whiteline diff bushings
RCE Yellow springs 330 lbs
Koni adjustable shocks
18.9 lbs RH evo wheels 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18

MISC.
Grimmspeed 3-port
AEM MAP
ATP GT30 turbo
 
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#56 ·
welp, drove the crank and valve vent to atmos mod today. turns out it isnt great for racing. i new subis had a problem turning hard but had no idea it was that bad!!! ive only ever drag raced and today i took it out and got on it around a 4 leaf clover high way entrance/exit ramps. basically a hard 60-70mph right hand turn, then a small straight away, then a hard right exit, small straight, hard right, small straight, etc, you get the point. you can get on and off and keep turning hard right with almost no other drivers getting in your way and your doing the speed limit.

ive always known subis suck at turning because all the oil in the valve heads comes pouring out when your in a high speed turn for to long. im glad i did the mod though!!!!!!!!!!!! or else all that oil would be in my inlet, turbo, IC, BPV, IM etc. im not glad that it was all over my car underneath from front to back.

now im sure someone will say get a catch can or AOS and no crap. but why bother? if i wanted to race my car at autox or road race it would seem that after a race or 1/2 way through all the oil would be blown out of the heads and into the catch can leaving the motor empty. an AOS might be a little better because it can put the oil back in but im not spending that much money and ive seen many AOS's fail at road racing because it overwhelms the AOS and it gets back into the inlet anywho.

anyone know why we need valve vents? i wish i could plum them back into the block and be done with it. seems the crank case is all you should need.
 
#58 ·
im building one now. saw pics of the crawford cut in half and its super easy. im still not wanting to run it back to the inlet. also im not sure if i want it running back to the crank vent either.

from what i can see it looks like the CCV and VCV go into the side of the can. the bottom port then runs all that crap and water from condensation that WILL form back to the CCV. on top and on the inside is just a baffle system with the top nipple that can run back to the inlet. im just not 100% on running the bottom port back to the CCV. yes it will allow the motor to not lose oil but its water and blow by crap that im letting just go right back in. sure ill change the oil every 3k but idk.
 
#64 ·
O ok.


What I did for the oil leak was found a pic of a Crawford AOS cut in half. Both the crank and valve vents enter the main chamber together. Then they can drain back to the crank vent (the back one by the turbo, the same one that enters the AOS). So basically the crank vent hose comes out of the block, into the AOS and back to the block. The valves also can dump there "stuff" into the AOS, then it all drains back to the crank vent or "block".

So what I did was make a AOS that looks just like their's. I took my catch can and made a baffle like their's where a second chamber has some little holes for oil to enter if need be but it also has a drain on it so it will flow back out. Then the top nipple sits inside and "should" suck up nothing but air. However at the moment I have no place to mount it while I'm TMIC. So what i did was kind of what you said. Before the valve vents dumped almost right onto the ground. Now they run high up to the top of the IM to a tee. Instead of then running it under the car then I ran it to the Y piece where the PCV used to be. So if valve oil does blast out it can go 2 places, back to the block or out the crank breather and onto the floor. I figure if the AOS is already connecting them together and draining them together back to the crank vent why not do it sooner.

This is only for the time being till I get all my 09 stuff swapped and get my FMIC back on. Then ill split the lines up, run to my AOS, then back to block. Only thing is instead of running a line back to the inlet my AOS will just have a filter on top. I hope it's semi large volume will be enough so oil doesn't come out of the filter.
 
#65 ·
finished up my copy of the Crawford AOS V1. was pretty easy to do! if i wanted to copy the V2 it wouldn’t be hard since they just run a tube through the main chamber which just uses coolant radiant heat to warm it up. from the pic you can see air/oil enters the main chamber from the crank and valve vents which then drains back to the crank case. if any oil does get into the second chamber from the top air holes you can see there is a drain for the second chamber which will allow oil to go back to the main chamber and then to the crank case. i dont think im gonna run the top nipple back to the inlet. i already closed off all the nipple's i did have on the 3” inlet i already made, so a little filter will do just fine. i wrinkle black painted the can (OF COURSE :) ) which is drying right so ill post a pic later. all in all not bad for only about $10!!!! instead of $385! i did all the "welding" with the Durafix imitation rods i had which i said would be left over and good to use for later projects, just like this ;)

 
#68 ·
VOTE for exhaust

so i didnt want to sell my TXS CBE specially because i have a 3" cutout in the mid pipe. i saw an 11 with a TXS CBE and it looks ok. however im supposed to have quad tips and not dual. so for $100 i can change that.

1. dual???

2. quad???









PS my old car is for sale!!!!

i think its kinda weird the price is the 09 base model price back in 09 brand new with zero miles!!! pics look good though.

Used 2009 Subaru Impreza WRX For Sale in Brunswick OH | JF1GE76619G521615
 
#70 ·
I'm more for the quad because that's what the openings are made for, I wouldn't pick that dual dip you have pictured tho, I prefer something with thinner walls like the OEM exhaust has on it.

The price on your old car is rediculous... That's about $50 less than I paid for my car brand new (plus tax).
 
#72 ·
Sadly that's the shortest tip I can find. All others are 10" or more which will put the tips beyond the bumper. The tip in the pic is only 7.5" and when I cut what I need to it will be about 6.5 which is what the big single 4" tip is. As you can see its flush with the bumper. I hate my SPT because it's 2-3" into the bumper and the underside looks like crap and is turning black!

Hey at least is has some new nuts and bolts, battery, wheels, tires, STI wing :)
 
#73 ·
Why would I need a check valve on the filter? Normally that line would run to the inlet which would see constant vacuum. So far it's bone dry and working so I could run that top line to the CAI when I install it.
 
#75 ·
Ahhhh.

Ya i put that hose on there cause the filter was to tall. I had to mount the can as high as possible so it would drain back to the block correctly. It's also only temporary till I can mount the can where the TMIC is, then draining and everything won't be as difficult to do and hoses will be much shorter.
 
#76 · (Edited)
welp i went with the dual, quad tip total, me likey

DONT LET ANYONE TELL YOU YOUR CBE IS 304SS, its not!!!! HMF in cleveland ohio that has real 304SS for exhausts is nothing like what we have. everything is made in china and your lucky if its 312SS

first from this to this


then to this












i do have 2000* flat black paint that i believe im going to use. i just cant stand chrome when it gets to what it did. it will look so much nicer blacked out.
 
#79 ·
HOLY ****!! if you boys want to have some fun get an exhaust cutout. i never had my cutout with the OEM header. it rumbles so loud and hard the car shakes. ill still be going back to EL header soon which smooths and quites things down but if you want some fun i say get one!
 
#80 ·
Watch those, a buddy of mine had 2 on his Baja and had problems with his exhaust ever since. Not sure if it was the back pressure or just the welding/cutting work.

I do agree, they do make a whole lotta fun.
 
#81 ·
Only problems that could arise is the motor breaks. Sucks to buy a new one but o well. It would suck if it broke open! But it came with a block off plate so just unbolt the motor and bolt the plate down. If I don't want to buy a new motor then you just have to crawl under the car everytime to use it.
 
#83 ·
uuggg. i dont think my turbo is happy!!!!!!!!!!!

im pissed, i hate subi uses synthetic oil now from the factory! it gives the motor and parts no time to break in. i didnt feel like going back to regular and then back to synthetic. So i gave the motor an oil change at about 200-300 miles to get rid of all the metal flakes. at 30 miles i removed the PCV valve and all the lines going to the inlet for the valve and crank vents. Only lines now are 2-port, bpv, and evap, all have zero oil in them.

To clear that up, from 30 miles oil has NO way of getting into the inlet, turbo, TMIC, or manifold!

however every time i pop the TMIC oil is in the compressor, TMIC, and TB coupling. when i installed my DP last week the turbine was bone dry so a seal or something on the compressor side must be leaking.

the oil is very very very small. maybe 3-4 drops around the turbo to TMIC connection and 2-3 drops in the TB coupling. im running redline 5w30 just like my 09 that had ZERO oil anywhere. im thinking 5w40 might be a quick fix no?
 
#86 ·
redline is my brand. best oil based stock because they use polyol-ester and they have the highest amount of zinc, phosphorus and molybdenum which are your micro lubricants. you will not find a better oil on paper! as for street use, daily driving etc im sure most oil even cheap walmart oil will be fine to some point.

"oil drop?" i dont have any oil drop as in oil level dropping. just small droplets of oil here and there that i did not have on my 09 after 36k.

redline states 5w30 is thicker at temp then most regular oil 10w40's. however redline does state 5w50, 15w50 and 20w50 seem to be for turbo's, high HP, hot weather etc.

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil
 
#87 ·
stage 1 tune. find someone with a tactrix cable and flash it. tune is about $60-70. this runs 18psi for about 1000rpm then drops to 13psi by redline. stage 2 you need a downpipe and a tune. again about $60-70 and runs 19psi for about 2000-3000rpm and tapers to 13psi at redline. DP is about $300-500. stock runs 14.3psi with a 10psi taper.
 
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