ive been talking myself in and out of installing my catless DP on my car with ZERO other engine mods. No catback and No EM! just hearing a hole bunch of stuff not sure whats true! dyno tuner said ill be fine untill i come in for an open source tune (not sure how long that will be). even if i throw a CEL light the car will not go into limp mode and i read that too! DP company seller said id be fine too. just worried about cell lights and boost creep.
DP comes with a CEL fix O2 elbow extension and ive heard its ok to install and not ok cause it could give bad/false A/F readings to the motor.
plan is to install the catless DP and remove the factory resonator and keep the stock 2 OEM mufflers (09 4dr). when im ready (money wise) im gonna drop in a K&N panel filter and get an open source tune (hopefully a in a few months). next summer ill do catback, EM, intake and a hole bunch more!!
Me, I wouldnt do it. Adjusting, or adding one part, and not adjusting anything else. Im not that good with the whole tuning thing since I just use the Cobb AP and just select what I want and hit enter. But from reading and being around the car(s) for the past few years I wouldnt feel good about doing it. But if you have that much confirmation from the makers of the product and a tuner saying so, seems like you SHOULD be alrite.
____________________________
Joshua
"2007 WRX-20G- Tim Bailey tuned 326 HP 319 ft/lbs
Stage 2 2005 WRX
Cobbtuning.com"
well if they sell the cars stock with a SPT catback and no EM im thinking ill be ok. 4drs go from 2.5 pipe to like 1 inch when they spilt to two mufflers. thats alot of back pressure and restricktion im thinking. still not sure on the CEL fix yet. tuner hasnt said yes or no yet on that part
Synolimit, I'm gonna have to recommend against it bro. As much as I know you want to install and enjoy the rumble and bit more power; Here's the main reasons I wouldn't:
1) You are not going to get much out of it with-out the tune and especially with the stock cat back pipes and muffler.
2) Perrin told me that the CATTED DP would not throw a cel and it did! Not only that, but I watched it hit higher boost levels (Omori boost gauge) when it hit the computer's "over boost" deal or whatever giving all sorts of blinking shizz (check engine light, blinking cruise--unusable like that, traction control light blinking) and then chug a big one... Scared the crap out of me, but went away. The SECOND time that happened a week later I ordered the AP and still have not gotten tuned until I get it. Just reset the ECU and all is good for now, but I won't drive it hard for a few days until the AP arrives.
3) You just spent alot of money on a really nice car. Being impatient will never pay off man. Just wait until it's all lined up for the tune, then you should be good, but the tuner isn't going to warranty much if anything. You're making the decisions and should be smart about it. They might say "do this or do that" but ultimately you are responsible for it so I say protect your investment until you're certain all is a safe set up to run daily. Unless you're made of money, then screw it and do what you feel, lol.
I let my DP sit for two months almost and thought about it every day, finally after all the confirmations from the CEO of Perrin that it's "totally safe to run, we wouldn't let you do something that would harm your car" emails and such I installed it. It's great, but I almost wet my pants when it lunged and set the CEL lights off!
Hopefully you're thinking less about the speed and more about the longevity of your sweet ride right about now. I don't mean to scare you out of it, just sharing some experience bro. Catless DP will definitely be more touchy and have higher likely hood of boost creep and spiking.
Yeah...I know how anxious you'd be to install it...me personally, from what I've read from people on here, I would hold off until I get the engine management...And like others have said...a cat back exhaust is fine to install without EM, however the downpipe is something you might want to hold off on...
Synolimit, I'm gonna have to recommend against it bro. As much as I know you want to install and enjoy the rumble and bit more power; Here's the main reasons I wouldn't:
1) You are not going to get much out of it with-out the tune and especially with the stock cat back pipes and muffler.
2) Perrin told me that the CATTED DP would not throw a cel and it did! Not only that, but I watched it hit higher boost levels (Omori boost gauge) when it hit the computer's "over boost" deal or whatever giving all sorts of blinking shizz (check engine light, blinking cruise--unusable like that, traction control light blinking) and then chug a big one... Scared the crap out of me, but went away. The SECOND time that happened a week later I ordered the AP and still have not gotten tuned until I get it. Just reset the ECU and all is good for now, but I won't drive it hard for a few days until the AP arrives.
3) You just spent alot of money on a really nice car. Being impatient will never pay off man. Just wait until it's all lined up for the tune, then you should be good, but the tuner isn't going to warranty much if anything. You're making the decisions and should be smart about it. They might say "do this or do that" but ultimately you are responsible for it so I say protect your investment until you're certain all is a safe set up to run daily. Unless you're made of money, then screw it and do what you feel, lol.
I let my DP sit for two months almost and thought about it every day, finally after all the confirmations from the CEO of Perrin that it's "totally safe to run, we wouldn't let you do something that would harm your car" emails and such I installed it. It's great, but I almost wet my pants when it lunged and set the CEL lights off!
Hopefully you're thinking less about the speed and more about the longevity of your sweet ride right about now. I don't mean to scare you out of it, just sharing some experience bro. Catless DP will definitely be more touchy and have higher likely hood of boost creep and spiking.
Good Luck!
im patient so i can wait, but i do have a question. i have an autometer boost gauge. at low speed in 3rd or 4th if i go WOT it jumps to 15psi then tapers to 10psi like it should. BUT in 1st and 2nd when you punch it, it jumps to about 17-20psi for about a 1/2 second then tapers to 15psi then tapers to 10psi. does it just jump like that cause my autometer is a cheaper gauge and 1st and 2nd when u nail it, its just such an initial blast of air to the gauge it reads that high? cars bone stock, all i can think of is thats why my gauge was $60 when theres ones for $90-$150-$210.
I don't know much about the Autometer company, but I went in the middle with Omori for $90. Defi are like $150+, but I wanted something reliable rather than budget so it took an extra week to get it, lol. I certainly hope that it's your gauge reading falsely since they say the stock boost is 13.7 PSI or so, which of course can spike a little bit (mine totally stock hit 14.5 for example) but would hold pretty solid through the gears and rpm's. You may want to have someone take a look at it or ask the autometer folks about it. Our car is pretty well made. $60 still isn't peanuts! Might want to look at the Prosport gauges if they refund you for falty gauge, I got them recommended alot too, but the Omori is closest to interior that I've found so far.
I agree with SmokenJoe. I have a Invidia catless DP, N1 cb and I went WOT in 1-2 and it went in to limp mode with all the bells and whistles ringing in my face. I thought hurt something but i didnt thank god. Know i have enough miles to get tuned, I will be scheduing an appointment on tuesday. Also I insalled a perrin CAI.
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2009 Blue Impreza WRX
well i looked a little harder. even in 5th gear at 70-80, the boost gauge still spikes to 16-17psi for 1/2 a sec then drops to 15 then tappers to 10psi
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