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1/8th mile times?

6K views 30 replies 9 participants last post by  Imprezzive 
#1 ·
Just bought my 2004 WRX and I was wondering what the STOCK times would be for it, in the 1/8th? The only mod on my car is a ProDrive axle back.
 
#3 ·
Im a newbie to the AWD turbo seen when it comes to drag racing, an with my 2002 WRX (Stock besides the blow off valve) I was only able to pull a 9.7 in the 1/8 out of 5 runs. What am i doin wrong if someone got a 8.8??? I know that was my first time up their with the car but to suck with a 14.8-15.0 1/4 mile run i could use some pointers. I was told to try and launch the car 4-5K pulsing on the gas and slipping the clutch out slowly, not dropping it. I havent gotten a chance to try that yet but in a couple of weeks ill be running up at the track. Help LOL!?
 
#5 ·
My time slip reads as:
R/T ---------.562
60' ----------2.030
330 ---------6.117
1/8 ---------9.517
MPH --------71.07
1000------- 12.432
1/4 ---------14.877
MPH --------92.15

Maybe you can see where my problems happen. Im looking to get 14.5 out of it stock, constantly also. I thought car and driver said they could get 14.4 stock. these times were achived my dropping the clutch out at ~5k not slipping it. all shifts were done at 7K with the gas released between shifts. I ended in 3rd gear at 7100 RPMS
 
#11 ·
Imprezzive said:
kool will do. im ordering right now a gt spec header, perrin downpipe and hks exhaust. im also in installing a perrin fuel rail, STi pinks, and a walbro fuel pump. im hoping to see some gains with this. would a Utec be recommended after these mods?
Well, the header will hurt you more than it will help you. You should probably cancel the order on that.

Also, you CANNOT run upgraded injectors without some sort of engine management. It won't work.

You should ditch the header and get an uppipe. Also consider an upgraded intercooler.

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#12 ·
wow good thing i waited for that reply. see i was only ordering the header because the one i have, i had some1 weld the EGT under the 3rd clyinder and the gauge for some reason doesnt work at all, or will read a max temp of 250 F no matter what i am doin to the motor. But the person who i trusted to weld the probe in did the most F'd job ever and pretty soon theyll be a rust hole the size of approx a computer mouse. I was also told that the header makes the exhaust system sound 10x better, but if it will hurt me bad, im 2nd guessing it. just wish the one on their looked alittle better.

But instead ill cancel out the header, get a perrin up/down with the hks hi power and feed the motor with the injen front mount or the maybe the blitz? and recomendies
 
#14 ·
its a good thing you say that, because before you posted that reply, i had already ordered the parts. incoming to me is a Perrin FMIC, with there cold air induction( both from JSCSPEED). i purchased the perrin up and down pipe and the HKS Hi power exhaust. I also bought a Turbo XS cheap boost controller. These products sound like a good combination? im hoping for some better ETs now. i want to break 13.99
 
#17 ·
yeah thats a my bad i typed it wrong. i dont have the perrin cold air, its the short ram style one ( force of habbit writing cold air). The reason i didnt go with the accessport basically was $ wise. i ran alil short. I figured i have the FMIC, a turbo timer, HKS BOV, a catless uppipe+downpipe, an IC sprayer, so turning the boost up to 17-17.5 would be ok and safe. it runs 15.5 on my car with stock parts an the BOV. Do you guys think that turning the boost up would cause engine problems?

That and ive never seen anyone with the accessport so i figured a MBC would be easier on me?
 
#19 ·
Imprezzive said:
its a good thing you say that, because before you posted that reply, i had already ordered the parts. incoming to me is a Perrin FMIC, with there cold air induction( both from JSCSPEED). i purchased the perrin up and down pipe and the HKS Hi power exhaust. I also bought a Turbo XS cheap boost controller. These products sound like a good combination? im hoping for some better ETs now. i want to break 13.99
damn man how much did that run you. That stuff is not chep.
 
#20 ·
It all ran me about alittle over 3K. i saved up for a while to buy in one shot. so far i got the exhaust in today (well every part besides the HKS piece, thats friday) and will be installed saturday, and the fMIC, intake, and MBC will arrive next thursday they said. just awaiting the FMIC from the factory i guess. any good estimates on what kind of 1/4 mile time ill be able to pull?
 
#21 ·
Imprezzive said:
It all ran me about alittle over 3K. i saved up for a while to buy in one shot. so far i got the exhaust in today (well every part besides the HKS piece, thats friday) and will be installed saturday, and the fMIC, intake, and MBC will arrive next thursday they said. just awaiting the FMIC from the factory i guess. any good estimates on what kind of 1/4 mile time ill be able to pull?
You may get a decent time, but you are greatly endangering your engine by using a MBC.

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#24 ·
sweet!

I finished installing the exhaust saturday and found only two snags, besides the uppipe being a pain in the a$$ to pull out. One, my perrin downpipe rubs on the frame of the car and rattles loudly under the passenger seat. espically in nuetral and in between shifts. 2nd, the uppipe EGT from the factory i had removed and placed my autometer EGT in, figuring that it wouldnt affect it since at the Perrin website they claim its not needed, well after highway trips or approx 20 minutes of driving the CEL comes on. any solutions to this problem?
 
#25 ·
Imprezzive said:
sweet!

I finished installing the exhaust saturday and found only two snags, besides the uppipe being a pain in the a$$ to pull out. One, my perrin downpipe rubs on the frame of the car and rattles loudly under the passenger seat. espically in nuetral and in between shifts. 2nd, the uppipe EGT from the factory i had removed and placed my autometer EGT in, figuring that it wouldnt affect it since at the Perrin website they claim its not needed, well after highway trips or approx 20 minutes of driving the CEL comes on. any solutions to this problem?
There is a bracket down at the bottom of the downpipe that the pipe bolts to. The hole is oval shaped so you can move the downpipe from one side to the other. Try moving it over.

You don't want to put your EGT gauge prope in the uppipe. It won't be very accurate there.

Did you use any kind of CEL fix? Did you get the code pulled?

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#26 ·
i got the rattling fixed, had to actually weld the oval flange to the lowest part of the hanger, the bolt wouldnt hold it there. the pipe doesnt flex enough. I have the Perrin CEL fix placed on the car and i installed it right. the code was a EXHAUST GAS TEMP CIRCUIT MISSING. Which is understandable because i unplugged it thinking the ECU didnt need it as the perrin website states.

But...... I have bigger problems.

The WRX will stall out on me now. Example: goin down the highway go from 5th to nuetral on an exit, the revs go low, boggle alittle and stall just like that. this same senario will happen if i take the car from WOT to nuetral in 2nd gear or higher. I took the car to two local mechs i know and they said the new system i have on the car isnt gonna work because my back pressure is to low, the exhaust runs so freely that the O2's are stuck on stupid, place my factory ECU in a type of fail safe mode (restricting power) and become so cold it shuts down Qoute Unqoute if you will. They said I have to place a cat back on the car which is currently catless. (gtspec header/ catless uppipe/ perrin down pipe/ HKS hi power). now those were just to mechs i know from a hyundai dealer, there not the boys that drive these rexs,
. . . . so if anyone has a better idea as to what i should do besides cut and weld into my new exhaust, please let me know!!!!!
 
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