stroker kit install - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 09-06-2005, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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stroker kit install

does anyone have an idea of what it might cost to get a 2.2l stroker kit installed? with all of this talk about factory rods only being good (read reliable) with IHI turbos, and kind of real power (300+ AWHP) requires new rods. now since the enitre engine needs to be rebuilt as part of a rod replacement, wouldnt it make good sense to get a stroker kit that has stronger rods, new/stronger crank and get a little bump in displacement? im thinking so!

a COBB stroker kit with new rods will run about $2595. any thoughts on install? $1000???? $2000????
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post #2 of 5 Old 09-07-2005, 03:47 PM
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I know all the shops around here charge $75 an hour. So you are looking at alot of money.
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post #3 of 5 Old 11-21-2005, 01:04 AM
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its not a hard job. but can be time consuming. If you have the tools, do it yourself and save a lot of $. If you do it yourself here are a few things to remember.

-Coat only the inside of the rodbearings with oil (the sides that will be against the crank)
-Make sure the ends of the bearings with the notches face eachother or your crank wont turn over
-Make sure the oil cleance in the bearings is within manufacturers specs.
-Torque down all bolts to spec, and for safe measure go back and torque them down in the same order as the first time
-throw two pieces of heater hose on the studs of the connecting rod when installing piston and rod into cylinder (this protects the journals on your crank from being scratched from the two studs on the rod as it is installed) once the rod is in place its safe to take the two pieces of hose off
-always remove and install pistons from top of block. cylinder walls are tapered towards the bottom and you dont want to scratch your cylinder walls trying to force them out.
-stagger the gaps for your piston rings to prevent blow-by
-Don't let the two ends of your oil ring overlap
-ALWAYS USE THE CORRECT TOOLS for the job. It saves time, headaches, and long streams of profanity

Thats all I can think of right now. Good luck

*edit* not to mention doing it yourself eliminates yourself from being screwed by flat rate
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-22-2005, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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i love the way people can make the most complicated tasks sound really simple! its like watching an episode of horse power tv, or two guys garage. motor rebuild and trany swap in 20 minutes!!!!!
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-22-2005, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunham
its not a hard job. but can be time consuming. If you have the tools, do it yourself and save a lot of $. If you do it yourself here are a few things to remember.

-Coat only the inside of the rodbearings with oil (the sides that will be against the crank)
-Make sure the ends of the bearings with the notches face eachother or your crank wont turn over
-Make sure the oil cleance in the bearings is within manufacturers specs.
-Torque down all bolts to spec, and for safe measure go back and torque them down in the same order as the first time
-throw two pieces of heater hose on the studs of the connecting rod when installing piston and rod into cylinder (this protects the journals on your crank from being scratched from the two studs on the rod as it is installed) once the rod is in place its safe to take the two pieces of hose off
-always remove and install pistons from top of block. cylinder walls are tapered towards the bottom and you dont want to scratch your cylinder walls trying to force them out.
-stagger the gaps for your piston rings to prevent blow-by
-Don't let the two ends of your oil ring overlap
-ALWAYS USE THE CORRECT TOOLS for the job. It saves time, headaches, and long streams of profanity

Thats all I can think of right now. Good luck

*edit* not to mention doing it yourself eliminates yourself from being screwed by flat rate
Dunham, have you ever built a subaru motor yourself, if not, you should not be giving advice of the build process. when building a subaru motor the rods get attached to the crank first and then the crank/rod assembly gets lowered into one half of the casing then the other half of the casing gets lowered onto this and torqued up, then the pistons are put in the bores and the rods must be lined up with the piston pin holes and the piston pins inserted through service holes in the side of the block. This is a simple process with the correct tools and a genuine subaru service manual and not to mention a lot of patience. By the way it is not possible to remove subaru pistons from the bottom of the bore anyway due to the block reinforcemants.
however to get a mechanic to fix what you have damaged will cost you the earth.
my suggestion is to get a shagged out EA81 to pull apart and re-assemble before deciding to do your own high powered motor. yes it is simple but there is a procedure to follow to get it all together without having bits left over and having to split the casing again.
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