I checked just to make sure, because I was certain there was a Chevron in Draper that had E85, but they actually quit carrying it a few months back. The guy behind the counter said they had problems with the 2 pumps clogging or something, so they converted those 2 pumps to Diesel instead. That seems dumb to me, but oh well. I kept looking on the internet before I went there, and I saw people who had written reviews on it, and they hadn't had current prices since the beginning of 2009. That's why I drove down there, because that was a major contributing factor to me NOT going with E85.
Good news is that I just had to go do a drug test for the job I was applying for, indicating that they're offering me a job tomorrow as well (it helps that I have 5 different high level managers that used to work with me at some time that all work in the same company now). I'll be working in Bountiful, which is close to an E85 station so it's not terribly out of the way to get E85 up that direction if necessary, but I still feel like I will only be using E85 for AutoX.
The pistons should be back on Tuesday of next week, and I have my box of parts ready to assemble. I need to do my reading on good oils to use to break in the car, and best practices for breaking in the motor after the rebuild too. On my bullet bike, I was told by the Yamaha dealer to take it really easy and not shift above 6K rpms, and everywhere I read experts on bikes saying to rap it out or the pistons wouldn't seat and clear the crosshatching or something so the cylinders wouldn't seal completely (granted there's something different about those cylinders, and I think I remember them having some carbon coating or something, but I don't remember what). I need to actually read scientific stuff, and not just hear opinions, but the only other time I've broken in a motor, I drove it really easily, and the journals on the crank had been honed too far, and I broke my crank in half on my Prelude after only 8K miles on the block. I have awesome luck breaking stuff, huh? Point of that little story is that I didn't get to see the results of how I broke that motor in. I hadn't even gotten to forced induction with it at that point, and it broke the crank.
Anyone have solid information, besides stuff from Subaru, about breaking in the motor properly, and recommendations on oil? I know not to use synthetic oil to break it in, and I don't intend to BOOST the car beyond WG pressure during break in (tuned for it to be limited, btw) but I'm looking for info on the rotating masses and how to break those in the best way possible. If I find great info I'll link it here too.
EDIT: Break-in Info.
I have been searching a little bit, and this is what I found quickly. I need to clarify that the above info I said about breaking in my bike was only partially correct, and without additional info, it's terrible advice. I'm going to summarize what's quoted below. You need to rev it hard, but not consistently. You want to increase cylinder PRESSURE without increasing the cylinder TEMPERATURE too much. That translated means to not just baby it, and to give it the beans a couple times too, but only after the car has been properly warmed up without revving first. Varying engine speeds is the easiest way to explain it simply, but that's not completely correct either. I read on a different site that by varying revs, you're extending the parts to their full range. I don't believe it, but mostly because it doesn't make sense to me. It's a reciprocating motor, meaning that by changing the revs the only thing you're varying is the number of passes in a given amount of time, and not extending any parts further (with exception of variable valve timing/lift such as AVCS, VTEC, MIVEC, insert other acronyms here). Anyway, that summary grew to be as long as the quote. I'm done.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.
Source: New Engine Break-in Procedure