So...I must admit my guilt - Page 3 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#31 Old 06-29-2011, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by turmic View Post
They are though. The rods only really break under a lot of knock or bad detention issues. Under good working conditions they will last. Because subaru put in a good crank and forged rods OEM, but decided to put in cheap ass pistons in it. Doesn't make sense to me.
Money, you have to save it somewhere. Think about all the WRXs and STis that have been sold worldwide since they first came out. Now if they put forged pistons in each one, think about how much money that would have cost them? Every company cuts corners in someway or another...Except GM they just don't build anything worth a damn anymore....

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#32 Old 06-29-2011, 10:09 PM
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That is stupid considering Mitsubishi found a way to work it into the budget. I'm a GM head in a second life keith. I'm a fan of the new ZL1 and newer Corvettes. Heck, I was looking at buying a 1969 Stingray until my engine broke. That's just my luck though...

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#33 Old 06-30-2011, 05:22 AM
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That is stupid considering Mitsubishi found a way to work it into the budget. I'm a GM head in a second life keith. I'm a fan of the new ZL1 and newer Corvettes. Heck, I was looking at buying a 1969 Stingray until my engine broke. That's just my luck though...
Mitsubishi is struggling as well and they cut corners in other ways...type in recalls on the Eclipse and Galant. As far as GM, note I said anymore, they quit producing good cars way back in the 70's. I haven't been a fan of GM for a long time even though I use to love the Camaro. Hey wait I kind of got off topic again...

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#34 Old 07-01-2011, 09:44 PM
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Its my thread. I won't rake you over the coals Keith.

So, the update today is that I got some pricing on my head work. Well, that and my engine plan is this. A new short block, nitride and modify the new crank, and they are going with rods and pistons of their choice. I have to see if I can squeeze the details of rods and pistons out of them. But, the turbo is at Blouch and they closed early for the 4th. So, I should know next week on that. If I'm getting prices on head work. Then I am assuming my heads are in the clear and they are not damaged.

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#35 Old 07-02-2011, 05:18 AM
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Cool beans. Heads are very expensive and that would not be cool to have to get a new set of those...

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#36 Old 07-02-2011, 12:11 PM
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Expect upwards of $2-2500 to build the heads, assuming they're good... You could probably find a good used set on nasioc for a cool $800-1000 which would include everything... If you're going to build them anyways you could probably find a bare set of castings for around $5-600.

I didn't read above, did they find out what exactly assploded? Every bearing?

-Chris
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#37 Old 07-02-2011, 04:19 PM
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Oh Chris, I know. I was estimated at $2,400 for ported/reshaped heads with springs/retainers/inconel exhaust valves and was told it would be another $285 if it needs new guides.

From what Chad said, it appeared from the oil problem. That it trashed the crank, two rods, and bearings broke. I guess that happens when your drain plug decides it hates you and pops off while driving down the highway.

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#38 Old 07-02-2011, 05:53 PM
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Oh Chris, I know. I was estimated at $2,400 for ported/reshaped heads with springs/retainers/inconel exhaust valves and was told it would be another $285 if it needs new guides.

From what Chad said, it appeared from the oil problem. That it trashed the crank, two rods, and bearings broke. I guess that happens when your drain plug decides it hates you and pops off while driving down the highway.
So you need new rods and a crank. That stinks, but this is your chance to build it the way you want it*cough2.34Lcough*.

Build Cossy heads or brand new bare castings...
Heads for the Subaru STI from HorsepowerFreaks
Just a thought, what cams are you going to go with?

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#39 Old 07-02-2011, 07:39 PM
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I have one of those drain valves on my wrx and its awesome....wish ya luck man..

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#40 Old 07-03-2011, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
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Oh Chris, I know. I was estimated at $2,400 for ported/reshaped heads with springs/retainers/inconel exhaust valves and was told it would be another $285 if it needs new guides.
Just so you know what your options are:

MAPerformance Stage 3 Cylinder Head Preparation (Subaru) - Modern Automotive Performance

That service includes ALL machine work, cleaning, labor, and actual assembly/lashing of the heads. All you do is supply the guts, send it all to them, and they do the rest.

Prices for the guts:

Seals: I got mine with my oem gasket kit, but don't pay more than $25. OEM's are even cheaper
Keepers/Collets: reuse stock if you can... If not they're each 5c from the dealer and you need 32 of them.
Guides: Don't pay more than $100. Supertech runs about $90 and they're a good brand.
Valves: Definitely inconel on the exhaust valves, but they cost ya a bit more. $375-400 for supertech valves using inconel exhaust, nitride intake.
Buckets: Expect to have to buy some buckets.... They run $15-18 a piece and you could need none, you could need all 16; it just depends on the cam/valves.
Springs and Retainers: BC seems good, and the price is right... Single spring is more than enough for 99% of builds that keep the revs below 8k.
Cams: I would go with something in the 264 range with medium lift for your turbo. Kelford, BC, Crower, Cossies... It's really just what you want to spend.

Other items:

I'm getting my chambers coated to hold the head in a bit better... Who knows if it makes a huge difference or not.

Get a shop to just do the machine work on the heads and assemble them yourself.... Saves a good amount of labor and heads are actually pretty easy once you know the valves are going to seat properly (machine shop will do that as part of the 3 or 5-angle valve job)

If you do the heads yourself buy one of these!!!!!
Amazon.com: Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer: Automotive

because it can do this:


For reference, I have a local shop doing the port work on my heads for $900. I'm assembling, setting lash, etc on my own. I'm also send them out to get the comb. chambers and valve faces coated and I'm spending $2,200 with cams.

-Chris
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#41 Old 07-05-2011, 07:33 PM
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If my engine was apart for me to do it on my own I would, but chad has the car and the engine at this point.

So, I put a down payment on the work today.

In case you missed it.

Its a new shortblock, Carillo pro- SA Lightweight rods, ACL Race bearings, CP side coated pistons, nitride crank, assembly, and machine work.

My heads will be ported/polished with valvespings, retainers, seals, reshaping, and inconel valves. Maybe buckets to fit with cams.

GSC S1 Cams

Master Gasket set

OEM oil pump

OEM oil filter housing assembly

break in and retune.

Don't forget labor.

So, its a pretty penny. But, I'd rather have it done right then done half assed. Chad wanted to change the oil pump and filter assembly because he said the metal shavings might messed the pump up. Probably over kill. Believe it or not, but for what I'm getting this time vs the last time I did the engine. Its a much better deal. I guess repeat business has its benefits.

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#42 Old 07-20-2011, 03:18 PM
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Well, Chad has confirmation that the Rods and Pistons will be in friday. Pistons already coated. So, they can be shipped out to the builder and everything can be shipped out to the machine shop next week.

Bad news is that Mike Blouch has finally got back to Chad and has said the turbo will need repair. Chad hasn't let me know how bad it is yet. He said he'll work out the details with Mike and then get back with me. Sucks, but oil starvation is a bitch with our cars. So, I'm not too surprised.

Its progress be it ever so slowly. Which, I'm not that worried about. Because the heat is so bad lately. If I can get the car back first and wait for the summer heat and humidity to break before this stuff gets tuned for. Then I'd be happy. Its way too hot to make any kind of good numbers in this heat.

Btw, the GSC Stage 1 Cams have these specs.
• Intake: 268 / 225 @ .040" / Peak Lift: 10.5mm / Centerline: AVCS
•Exhaust: 266 / 228 @ .040" / Peak Lift: 10.2mm / Centerline: 113

Chris: why are you coating the chambers and valve faces? Is it the same stuff that you had done to your pistons?

Kirt
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#43 Old 07-20-2011, 06:21 PM
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I will have a 20g for sale here in a few weeks. Might have to actually use my stock turbo until I can get the GT40.

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#44 Old 07-20-2011, 07:52 PM
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Its simular in certain respects, but very different from the turbo I'm running Keith. I'm going to get the turbo fixed or would upgrade. But, more than likely getting it fixed or replaced.

Kirt
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#45 Old 07-20-2011, 08:19 PM
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What turbo are you running if you don't mind me asking? I have been meaning to look into something different, but have been putting it off simply because of the pain of installing a new one.

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