Subaru WRX Forum (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/)
- Cylinder Head & Short Block (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/)
- - should i buy another wrx or rebuild (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/should-i-buy-another-wrx-rebuild-42594/)
should i buy another wrx or rebuild
link to my question
[url=http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20131217020309AAD1FhU]Should I Buy Another Subaru Wrx or Rebuild mine? - Yahoo Answers[/url]
Gonna have to agree with the guy on your other thread.
You chance failure again in another. Rebuild this one how you want. Plus now with the extra money, you can afford to buy add ins and a tune;)
[B]I'm researching a rebuild of my EJ205 as well[/B], and here's what the performance shop said about it when I asked them for a process and a budget:
"We generally charge around 18 hours labour for remove, disassembly and Installation of a motor build. It can vary depending on the car though if items are rusted and take longer to come apart.
Bearings I would estimate around $120-130 + tax for the main and rods. Mahle Pistons would be $640 + tax, they're more expensive then some but the material used is best for long term use with low wear on the motor/cylinders.
Then add about $200-250 for miscllaneaous gaskets and seals that would need to be replaced.
Machine work for the heads and bottom end will be between $1000-1500 depending on what needs to be done.
All in all the low end would be around $3400 + tax. This doesn't include the fluids which would be coolant and break-in oil and then tuning which usually adds up to about $300 for road tuning. What we do is have our tuner be on-site for the initial start-up and break-in tune and then when the motor has completed it's full-break in we do a final tune."
So if you have others do it all, I'd budget 4,000 CAD$. In general [B]the advice I'm getting is to have a qualified shop assemble the short block and put the heads on it[/B], because this part is critical to success. The rest of the removal & reinstall doesn't take a specialist.
I have over 30k miles (1.5 years) on my rebuilt engine. Look at it as an investment. Build it how you want it and enjoy it for a while.
@LW_Black4 That is Quirt Crawford in the photo...from Crawford Performance. A bit of a god with flat 4s.
And John drives too much. I'm at 10k miles on my built engine and I had mine built before John. LOL.
Thanks turmic, that's good to know. I'm a beginner Crawford groupie myself, as their reputation seems to be nearing legendary status.
[B]I wonder if we can figure out from the photo which EJ motor he's putting together in that photo?[/B] I see AVCS.
I'd just like to point out that there's no such thing as driving too much
Can't quite tell, but they do a lot of EJ257 work and now FA BRZ work.
@man show : I know...just messing with you. lol
Copy & paste of Q & A
i have a 2004 Subaru WRX EJ 205 i paid 6500 for it Regrettable 2 months after i got it i spun a rod bearing the motor is pulled out and tore down. i'm looking into rebuild, replace, or buy another WRX and use mine for back up parts
i started buying some parts but when i get my tax return i may sell this parts and buy another WRX
or buy long block
Subaru WRX parts paid for and ready to install Price
new OEM Subaru EJ 205 oil pan 85.60
new OEM Subaru EJ 205 front timing covers 128.83
new OEM Subaru EJ 205 crankshaft 356.32
new Mizumo Subaru EJ 205 overhaul engine
rebuilding kit includes timing,piston,pumps 599.99
complete engines are on eBay for 949.99 and up
if i buy another WRX i would only want a 04/05 because i don't like the front end on the other models,found a grey 2004 WRX 171000 miles $5900
thanks for the advice
i will be getting 6500 back in income taxes to use towards what i do
Where do you live? I know a great builder in New England. Can build you a better than stock 205 for much less than buying the other car. Be very careful with ebay on these. Depending on how much damage was done to the motor (did you drop the oil pan to look at it?) a rebuild can be pretty cheap.
If you are in New England, (I live on the MA/NH border, the engine builder is in RI) I have a garage, motor lift, motor stand etc. We could pull & replace the motor here. I've done it about seven times now so I can do it in my sleep.
At any rate, I agree with most others. If the rest of your car is good, do an overbuilt 205.
I see spun rod bearings in the 205's constantly. To correct the problems:
Stock rods are fine.
Consider forged pistons (I like Wiseco but everyone has their favorite)Stock pistons are also ok on a budget.
Consider a forged crank. If you can only do one forged option, I would do the crank.
Bearings, I like Clevite, a lot of people though like the ACL race.
Your heads will hopefully just have to be gone over & cleaned.
Lastly I would put the STI oil pan on there. They are $150 new on ebay. Allows for racing headers later on should you want, but also more oil which is always a good thing.
Make sure the builder balances EVERYTHING well. In these engines, balance is critical.
Have a qualified builder do that, don't drive like a moron, & you stand little chance of spinning another rod bearing. I see that all the time too.
Quickest solution is just to get another long block, but then you have an rod bearing spinning setup you had before.
Also, realize that if you do forged pistons you will hear a knock when you start the car till the pistons heat up. Totally normal & will go away with temperature. If you want to look for rod knock in your car, in neutral push the pedal to between 2500-3500 rpm & listen. If you have actual rod knock, thats the best area to hear it.
Of course you could also just drop the oil pan & if you have knock you'll see it plain as day.
Forgot to mention, while this is being done, do a new oil pump, water pump, t-stat & timing belt kit. It's not a ton of money, & now is a good time to do it.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:57 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin®. Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.0.8pl1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.