Rear Main Seal - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 10-31-2011, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bboy LiMiT View Post
Just to let you guys know I took the thermostat and put the OEM Seal on it and it stopped leaking into the housing from the bottom. I filled the entire system with coolant and burped it and then let it idle and the temps were good. Then I drove her around the block and everything was still good. I looked under the car one more time and no leaks. Thank you for the burping technique psinuse. Does anybody know why you torque the headbolts the way you do in these cars? Is it to stretch them and then tighten them or what? Why are they made to stretch anyways?
To apply an even load over the block.

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Last edited by psinuse; 11-01-2011 at 03:07 PM. Reason: turmic made me use correct spelling....lol
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#17 Old 10-31-2011, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by psinuse View Post
To apply an even load over the block.
Fixed

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#18 Old 11-01-2011, 05:21 AM
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Fixed
You know I had to go back through all these posts to figure out what you meant by spell checker on the forum game....

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#19 Old 11-01-2011, 11:35 AM
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Couldn't you just torque it to 25 ft lbs or 11 ft lbs and then 80 - 90* twice instead of torquing them and then backing off 180* twice and then performing the former step?
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#20 Old 11-01-2011, 03:09 PM
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Every motor I have build sans the one that used ARP studs, I torqued the way the factory manual said to. There is a reason for it to be that way and since Subaru has been building cars longer than most of the people on here have been alive I kind of follow there way of doing things.

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#21 Old 11-01-2011, 05:44 PM
 
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Originally Posted by psinuse View Post
Every motor I have build sans the one that used ARP studs, I torqued the way the factory manual said to. There is a reason for it to be that way and since Subaru has been building cars longer than most of the people on here have been alive I kind of follow there way of doing things.
Good point !! I've always thought it helps seat the gasket, and since the block and head are aluminum you want the load distributed evenly. I've done that procedure so many times with success that it's almost a relaxing zen-like exercise.

I also ####ed up an engine (an NA 2.5) using somebody else's short cut instructions. One extra 90 degree turn and the head studs snap ! The different torques for the center bolts, compared to the corners may seem silly, but why question it ?

Cullen
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#22 Old 11-02-2011, 09:21 PM
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You know I had to go back through all these posts to figure out what you meant by spell checker on the forum game....
I like to keep you on your toes.

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#23 Old 11-02-2011, 09:48 PM
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I like to keep you on your toes.
I've noticed this....You just like to cyber bully me don't you???!Laugh!

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#24 Old 11-02-2011, 10:49 PM
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You wish I would cyber bully you.

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#25 Old 11-02-2011, 10:51 PM
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Okay I think we have reached the weird side of the forum...I'm gonna head back over to the other side and grab a beer on the way....lol

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#26 Old 11-03-2011, 06:04 AM
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Doesn't matter which side you go to Keith... Whatever side you're on is weird.

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#27 Old 11-03-2011, 07:41 AM
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Doesn't matter which side you go to Keith... Whatever side you're on is weird.

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#28 Old 11-03-2011, 02:50 PM
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Well I'm not planning on taking any shortcuts or anything like that I'm just interested in WHY they are torqued like that is all. It is a strange process to me is all and it makes me curious...
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#29 Old 11-03-2011, 06:34 PM
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Well I'm not planning on taking any shortcuts or anything like that I'm just interested in WHY they are torqued like that is all. It is a strange process to me is all and it makes me curious...
The type of material they are made from is the biggest reason. Again it applies AN even load to keep parts from warping and or cracking.

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