Need suggestions on set-up - Subaru WRX Forum
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#1 Old 08-06-2006, 03:47 PM
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Need suggestions on set-up

OK this is my goal...for now : 350-400 safe WHP

I have a 2006 WRX TRwith 5k miles and a blowen ring/piston. one of the two.

I have about $4000-4500 to spend on a set up AND install.

I am gonna have PDX do the install.

I know I can get power package heads later on and install em with the motor in the car, so ill save the heads for later.

My main question is:

What and where should I get my short block from and what should I do to it to make it safe for my goal.

This is what I was thinking :
-Stage 1 short block from COBB ( good price .BUT i dont know how much the shipping would be). And would the pistons in that set up be good enough.??
- have PDX install it

Thats what I had in mind SO far.

PLEASE give my your thoughts and ideas !!!

thanks alot
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#2 Old 08-06-2006, 07:25 PM
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400 whp sounds great, but better upgrade your tranny with that stroker or you'll "shoaf" all your gears.

sorry Ken, I had to

-Justin, aka Gomer
(sold)-05 WRX
(new)-04 Cadillac CTS-V
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#3 Old 08-07-2006, 03:09 PM
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Well, your NOT going to make 400 usable whp with 5,000.. I spent almost that much on my turbo kit alone to get that.. The Cobb Forged pistons on the STI rods is good to about 24psi on a decent trim turbo.. The block is very close to what I am running and I hit 421whp with a TMIC.. I would opt for a forged Rod now since it's easy to do for less then a grad for top of the line rods.. Ask Cobb what they suggest...

What EM, IC, Injector, trans are you planning to run..

02 WRX.. "It's fun when it runs.. Problem is that it hardly ever does..."
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#4 Old 08-07-2006, 08:40 PM
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I plann on useing:
-cobb AP with pro tune. ( already have the AP )
-some hybrid FMIC. ( already have it )
-stock 2006 5 spd, till it goes boom.... i'll baby it.

I Will get Injectors/Fuel pump But I will have to Pice them together and Install them at the same time as the Turbo ( GT30R ) and the PRO-tune.

But Right now I am just trying to figure out what to get and install for and with my bottom end.

LIKE :
-Should I get STI camshafts ?
-Should I get a lightened flywheel & clutch. OR should I wait till after the car has broken in on the new motor.?
-WILL the Cobb stage 1 block work for me if the goal is 400 usable WHP.?
- Is there anything els That I should get or do since the motor is out??



all and all I would like to copy YOU!! lil shoaf !!

so shoot me a list of what you got GIMME what you got and what you dont got you can keep!!
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#5 Old 08-07-2006, 09:01 PM
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STi camshafts are a good idea IMO, the stock WRX cams run out of breath around 6500rpms, I'm thinking about purchasing a set for myself. I'm going to go with the Axis Stage 2 Shortblock, but the Cobb should be good for 400whp. Your going to want to change your water pump and oil pump with your new block, also think about deleting your TGV's. I would get some gauges to monitor your new block (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, also egt if you don't have one already). Your goal of 400whp with 5 grand might come up a little short, considering the turbo and block you want add up to just about 5 grand. That doesn't include your labor fees for install, since you don't plan on doing it yourself, plus all the other misc. stuff to go along with it.
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#6 Old 08-07-2006, 09:26 PM
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If I made it seem like I was planning on getting 400 usable WHP with 5k. I am sorry
I understand that it will take more than that...now maby if I get my 7grand ...But I am just trying to make sure what I do now will support the 400 WHP goal.


Why would I need to get new water and Oil pump? The ones in there now only have 5k on them.. the whole car only has 5k on it.

I think thats a good Idea to get the gauges. I have the EGT and oil temp already.

IS the TGV delete really worth it?
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#7 Old 08-08-2006, 03:13 PM
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Oh, well I didn't see your car was that new, my bad. The TGV's are these flapper type things under your intake manifold and when you give the car gas they open, but at WOT they don't open all the way therefore restricting air flow. It's up to you if you want to delete them yourself or just buy the APS or Crawford TGV's for like 500 bucks. IMO, I'd take them out, I'm going to as soon as I pull this damn motor.
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#8 Old 08-08-2006, 03:36 PM
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Don't follow me, all I do is "FIX" my car..

It's a really good idea to pull the TGVs especially if you plan on swapping cams.. As for now, let’s just focus on the block.. It's all you realistically have the cash for.. The Cobb "tuner" or "Pro" series Block would support your goal as that's basically what I have.. I would however like to see you upgrade the Rods as well at this time.. I regret not doing mine.. However on a half empty/half full ideal I think I'm going to have to pull my motor VERY soon to fix a (suspected) busted up piston ring so I might throw some rods in there as well..

The "Cobb Tuner Series 1" block is almost identical to mine, I have a Subaru STI short block with CP Pistons but both are forged pistons @ 8.5:1 and STI Rods and Crank.. It will hold your goal of 400whp.. I was told mine is good to 600whp on C16 or with Meth injection (my next purchase).. But I'm on a GT35R so you can easily run your GT30R at 24 Psi as I run my GT35R at that.. I hit about 9 grand over revving when my clutch let lose at my last drag event and I assume that is the cause of the busted up ring... Anyway..

Moving on.. I have Kelford Cams in mine.. I went with fully worked over heads and you might as well hold off on the cams until you can do your heads.. This will net you "steps" of power increase allowing you to get used to each increase and slowly build up to your goal.. This is a good way to go for several reasons..
1) I'm already used to mine and it feels slow to me..
2) Jumping from 165whp to 400whp just isn't a good idea.. LOL..

I would spend your 5000 like this..

Block Stage 1 or 2 even..
Walbro Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
(This will make you need new fuel lines to the rails. Even for aftermarket rails)
800cc – 1000cc injectors (plenty good for your goal) I have 1200ccs..
Gauges – Very important to monitor things.. Best to start this early.
AP Protune.. You will need to tune for the injectors even on the same CI block and
Turbo..
The rest I would set aside for the next “Step” and do all that at one time as well..

Now for my list…


Engine / Transmission
Magnus Intake
STI Short Block - Kerven Subaru
CP Forged Pistons - Axis Power Racing
Perrin Crank Pulley - PDX Tuning
NGK BKR7E spark plugs - Gaped to 0.028
Comitec Head Gaskets - Horse Power Freaks
ARP Head Bolts - PDX Tuning
New 2.0L Empty Heads - Axis Power Racing
Port & Polish - Axis Power Racing
Stage 2 Racing Valve train - Axis Power Racing
- Dual Spring Valve springs
- Titanium Retainers
- New Buckets
- New Shims (Shim under Bucket Design)
- New Keepers
Kelford Cams - Axis Power Racing
- 272 Intake with 10.5mm Lift
- 264 Exhaust with 10.5mm lift instead of 10.2mm
Stainless Steel Black Nitrided Valves - Axis Power Racing
PPG DogBox – AndrewTech Automotive
PPG Front LSD
Kaaz Rear LSD
The Drive Shaft Shop half shafts (front & Rear)
ACT Full Faced organic Clutch (Thinking about getting a SPEC Stage 3)
ACT Pressure Plate
ACT Street Light Flywheel


Fuel Delivery
Hydra Stand Alone ECU with Wide Band - Tuning done by Phil at Element Tuning
- Launch Assist / Anti Lag add on
Perrin Fuel Rails - PDX Tuning
Custom Braided Kevlar Fuel Lines
1200cc Fuel Injectors - RC Engineering
Walbro Upgraded In-Tank Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

Induction / Exhaust
Garrett GT35R Twin Ball Bearing Turbo w/0.82 Exhaust housing - Ultimate Racing
Perrin Front Mount Intercooler - Race Dezign
Perrin Radiator Hose Kit – Race Dezign
Perrin Radiator Shroud – Race Dezign
Koyo Polished Radiator - Rhythm Racing Motorsports
HKS SSQV Blow Off – Ultimate Racing
Blitz Power SUS Intake (With custom 4” runner and MAS delete)
Custom 3" Catless Down Tube - Ultimate Racing
Custom 38mm Catless Up-Pipe - Ultimate Racing
TiAL 38mm External Waste Gate (18lb Spring) - Ultimate Racing
Custom 38mm Dump Tube - Ultimate Racing
Greddy EVOII Cat Back Exhaust
Custom Header - Element Tuning – Still back ordered…..

Suspension
Perrin Tuner Sport Springs - Race Dezign
Perrin Front Sway Bars - Race Dezign
Perrin Rear Sway Bars- Race Dezign
Perrin Front End Links - Race Dezign
Perrin Rear End Links - Race Dezign
Perrin Rear Sway Bar Solid Mounts - Race Dezign
Perrin PSRS - Race Dezign

Misc Other Parts
TurboSmart Eboost2 (Boost set to 24 psi)
Yellow Top Optima Battery - Auto Zone
Autometer "Phantom" Gauges (EGT / Oil Pressure / Fuel Pressure)
Autometer Pro Shift Light (Blue)
Pioneer AVIC-N1 Head Unit
Viper Security System w/ Remote Start & Automated Windows
JL Audio 500/1
JL Audio W710

02 WRX.. "It's fun when it runs.. Problem is that it hardly ever does..."
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#9 Old 08-08-2006, 07:38 PM
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WOW.. how much do you have tied up in performance motor parts all together do you think?
15k ?

and thanks for the help btw
I think I am gonna do just what you said to do with the 5k i am getting
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#10 Old 08-08-2006, 08:20 PM
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Dude...I am at a loss of words for that list of mods, it's everything I dream about.
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#11 Old 08-08-2006, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL Shoaf
Don't follow me, all I do is "FIX" my car..

It's a really good idea to pull the TGVs especially if you plan on swapping cams.. As for now, let’s just focus on the block.. It's all you realistically have the cash for.. The Cobb "tuner" or "Pro" series Block would support your goal as that's basically what I have.. I would however like to see you upgrade the Rods as well at this time.. I regret not doing mine.. However on a half empty/half full ideal I think I'm going to have to pull my motor VERY soon to fix a (suspected) busted up piston ring so I might throw some rods in there as well..

The "Cobb Tuner Series 1" block is almost identical to mine, I have a Subaru STI short block with CP Pistons but both are forged pistons @ 8.5:1 and STI Rods and Crank.. It will hold your goal of 400whp.. I was told mine is good to 600whp on C16 or with Meth injection (my next purchase).. But I'm on a GT35R so you can easily run your GT30R at 24 Psi as I run my GT35R at that.. I hit about 9 grand over revving when my clutch let lose at my last drag event and I assume that is the cause of the busted up ring... Anyway..

Moving on.. I have Kelford Cams in mine.. I went with fully worked over heads and you might as well hold off on the cams until you can do your heads.. This will net you "steps" of power increase allowing you to get used to each increase and slowly build up to your goal.. This is a good way to go for several reasons..
1) I'm already used to mine and it feels slow to me..
2) Jumping from 165whp to 400whp just isn't a good idea.. LOL..

I would spend your 5000 like this..

Block Stage 1 or 2 even..
Walbro Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
(This will make you need new fuel lines to the rails. Even for aftermarket rails)
800cc – 1000cc injectors (plenty good for your goal) I have 1200ccs..
Gauges – Very important to monitor things.. Best to start this early.
AP Protune.. You will need to tune for the injectors even on the same CI block and
Turbo..
The rest I would set aside for the next “Step” and do all that at one time as well..

Now for my list…


Engine / Transmission
Magnus Intake
STI Short Block - Kerven Subaru
CP Forged Pistons - Axis Power Racing
Perrin Crank Pulley - PDX Tuning
NGK BKR7E spark plugs - Gaped to 0.028
Comitec Head Gaskets - Horse Power Freaks
ARP Head Bolts - PDX Tuning
New 2.0L Empty Heads - Axis Power Racing
Port & Polish - Axis Power Racing
Stage 2 Racing Valve train - Axis Power Racing
- Dual Spring Valve springs
- Titanium Retainers
- New Buckets
- New Shims (Shim under Bucket Design)
- New Keepers
Kelford Cams - Axis Power Racing
- 272 Intake with 10.5mm Lift
- 264 Exhaust with 10.5mm lift instead of 10.2mm
Stainless Steel Black Nitrided Valves - Axis Power Racing
PPG DogBox – AndrewTech Automotive
PPG Front LSD
Kaaz Rear LSD
The Drive Shaft Shop half shafts (front & Rear)
ACT Full Faced organic Clutch (Thinking about getting a SPEC Stage 3)
ACT Pressure Plate
ACT Street Light Flywheel


Fuel Delivery
Hydra Stand Alone ECU with Wide Band - Tuning done by Phil at Element Tuning
- Launch Assist / Anti Lag add on
Perrin Fuel Rails - PDX Tuning
Custom Braided Kevlar Fuel Lines
1200cc Fuel Injectors - RC Engineering
Walbro Upgraded In-Tank Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

Induction / Exhaust
Garrett GT35R Twin Ball Bearing Turbo w/0.82 Exhaust housing - Ultimate Racing
Perrin Front Mount Intercooler - Race Dezign
Perrin Radiator Hose Kit – Race Dezign
Perrin Radiator Shroud – Race Dezign
Koyo Polished Radiator - Rhythm Racing Motorsports
HKS SSQV Blow Off – Ultimate Racing
Blitz Power SUS Intake (With custom 4” runner and MAS delete)
Custom 3" Catless Down Tube - Ultimate Racing
Custom 38mm Catless Up-Pipe - Ultimate Racing
TiAL 38mm External Waste Gate (18lb Spring) - Ultimate Racing
Custom 38mm Dump Tube - Ultimate Racing
Greddy EVOII Cat Back Exhaust
Custom Header - Element Tuning – Still back ordered…..

Suspension
Perrin Tuner Sport Springs - Race Dezign
Perrin Front Sway Bars - Race Dezign
Perrin Rear Sway Bars- Race Dezign
Perrin Front End Links - Race Dezign
Perrin Rear End Links - Race Dezign
Perrin Rear Sway Bar Solid Mounts - Race Dezign
Perrin PSRS - Race Dezign

Misc Other Parts
TurboSmart Eboost2 (Boost set to 24 psi)
Yellow Top Optima Battery - Auto Zone
Autometer "Phantom" Gauges (EGT / Oil Pressure / Fuel Pressure)
Autometer Pro Shift Light (Blue)
Pioneer AVIC-N1 Head Unit
Viper Security System w/ Remote Start & Automated Windows
JL Audio 500/1
JL Audio W710
And what, no fuzzy dice?




My turbo's fixed and a lot better =)
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#12 Old 08-08-2006, 08:57 PM
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also any idea, of what I am looking at price wise for a AP tune?
I am going to PDX. But any real idea of how long it might take.?
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#13 Old 08-08-2006, 09:22 PM
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notice his upgraded radiator. why so many forget to install one i dunno..... but cooling is big, so dont forget.

lil shoaf, you spent let me guess, about 25k, more if you didnt install your self right? just guessing.
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#14 Old 08-10-2006, 12:34 AM
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OK .. on NASIOC site a lot of people are telling me NOT to wast my money on the block I am talking about here.. some are saying to just get a sti block and drop in some forged pistons.
Others are saying to get a 257 block ..( OR something like that) and that that blcok will hold 350 400 whp with a good tune..

I dont understand why thay are telling me this..
ALL the time I have been on any of these sites, I have been told to SPEND MORE MONEY .."DO IT RIGHT" .
AND now that I am trying to, I am being told not to wast money ..and bla bla bla....
whats going on ...

THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT TIME IN MY BOOBARU"S life.... I wnat to do it right ..BUT at the same time I do not want to just WAST/throw away money..

SO I am kinna taking to lil shoaf's foot steps.. but I need encouragement, That I am doing the right thing!!




OK here is my revised plann. :


Short block Built from scratch from PDX ( 2.5 with Forged molly pistons chamber matched. shotpeened sti rods. and something done to the crankshaft as well.but I dont remember.. and balanced.)
I am thinking of getting the Whole bottom end friction and heat COATED. if its dont cost too much.
AND also of seeing IF i can get the motor balanced to 8k RPM's.


Block---3300.00 with out coating.
816cc injectors--125
fuel pump----100
STI camshafts---200
lightened flywheel--300
AFPR---100
gaskets---250-350

I know I am missing something ..But I left my list at work..I will update tommorow.

ALso

Install---1300
with my big 16g turbo.
and my FMIC
and free base map
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#15 Old 08-10-2006, 02:59 PM
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As I stated earlier the Cobb Block is similar to what I have, And STI 257 Short Block with CP (forged Pistons).. For the price of the Tuner Stage 1 Cobb Block it's pretty close to what I paid for mine.. As for my total, Dude, I lost track a LONG time ago (on purpose).. I have, well a LOT invested in my car and this is why:

Top Tuner Baby

The Video - http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vi...o%3Fei%3DUTF-8

I wanted to devastate and I damn near did.. I only lost one race, but I turned around, nailed my launch and smoked past him.. Any way..

Edit: I did my own installs.. I did everything except the Head work and the final Tuning.

3,300 for the block and all that your stating is not that bad..
The injectors, what brand are they? Perrin? Will the "Drop In"?
the Pump is a Must in my opinion, you will idle fine with the stocker on those injectors but once you hit a decent amount of boost your stocker will fall on it's face..
I have no experience with the STI cams..
The Regulator is a Key piece to a consistent and safe setup..
Light weight Flywheel, yea, I have one too..

with what you are saying you should be setup really well.. You will put down some nice numbers.. I would say 350 or so, 400 with C16 and the right tune on that AP...

The tuning for the AP will be around 400-600 more then likely.. But tuning is ALWAYS worth the cost...

Just so you know, with that setup you will be able to DESTROY that stock transmission at WILL..

Also talk to PDX about the TGVs...

02 WRX.. "It's fun when it runs.. Problem is that it hardly ever does..."
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