My Hybrid Project got some questions along the way - Page 5 - Subaru WRX Forum
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #61 of 79 Old 12-26-2016, 02:22 PM
WRXtuners Member
 
Ruso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 285
Ruso is more helpful than not
Garage
Man! Killer work on that manifold! Beautiful stuff!
Ruso is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 79 Old 12-26-2016, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
More Update
Attached Images
             
mikea1 is offline  
post #63 of 79 Old 12-26-2016, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
Manage to install also my lightweight flywheel and stage 3 clutch today.... I'm mounting this ... this sat.
Attached Images
     
mikea1 is offline  
 
post #64 of 79 Old 12-27-2016, 03:13 AM
WRXtuners Member
 
Ruso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 285
Ruso is more helpful than not
Garage
Oh man! That's a pretty motor. Well done! Love it when people jump in and get dirty and make cool stuff happen.

Looking forward to the rest of the build and hopefully some vids!

Here's mine:
Name:  14991005_1241306165889424_6733943129794534381_o.jpg
Views: 58
Size:  127.5 KB
Name:  15000624_1244939472192760_356184340681349249_o (1).jpg
Views: 56
Size:  104.8 KB
Ruso is offline  
post #65 of 79 Old 12-27-2016, 05:59 AM
WRXtuners Member
 
titter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,296
titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention
Garage
lookin good so far dude!

just a tip if you havent already. i would high recommend wrapping that front cross over exhaust pipe. for $50 in wrap you will save yourself a TON of headaches in the future. one being that little coolant pipe that runs between the timing cover and crossover pipe. other being excess heat directly radiating onto your oil cooler & thermostat housing. which isnt a big deal really but it could potentially cause both to fail prematurely. your main concern is that coolant pipe.

Bugeye EJ207 Spec C 4EAT Wagon
happiness is measured in smiles per gallon
dont forget to wave
titter is offline  
post #66 of 79 Old 12-28-2016, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
[QUOTE=Ruso;589674]Oh man! That's a pretty motor. Well done! Love it when people jump in and get dirty and make cool stuff happen.

Looking forward to the rest of the build and hopefully some vids!

Here's mine:
Attachment 36490
Attachment 36498[/Q

damn! now that's cool!
mikea1 is offline  
post #67 of 79 Old 12-28-2016, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
Quote:
Originally Posted by titter View Post
lookin good so far dude!

just a tip if you havent already. i would high recommend wrapping that front cross over exhaust pipe. for $50 in wrap you will save yourself a TON of headaches in the future. one being that little coolant pipe that runs between the timing cover and crossover pipe. other being excess heat directly radiating onto your oil cooler & thermostat housing. which isnt a big deal really but it could potentially cause both to fail prematurely. your main concern is that coolant pipe.
Yup I got it covered lol! the headers is actually covered with thermal wrap and sprayed with silicon paint .. attach is the only photo I have of my headers its at the back of the head lol!.. I was thinking 15ft of thermal wrap is enough but I was wrong.. its not enough to cover the crosspipe.. anyways I already ordered 15ft more last Friday it should be here by Friday or Monday
Attached Images
 
mikea1 is offline  
post #68 of 79 Old 01-02-2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
Update she's in
Attached Images
         
mikea1 is offline  
post #69 of 79 Old 01-02-2017, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
She's up and running !! I love it !!

how do you attach a video here?

btw. stage 3 clutch is not so bad
mikea1 is offline  
post #70 of 79 Old 01-03-2017, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
Here is my Facebook page with the video ...

https://www.facebook.com/michael.r.a...type=3&theater
mikea1 is offline  
post #71 of 79 Old 02-06-2017, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
WRXtuners Member
 
mikea1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
mikea1 is a helpful contributing member
Update : I'm down with 800+ break in miles and I love my hybrid! you can feel it wants to be unleash

The only thing I don't like is my forged piston slapping around its sounds annoying and scary .. it seems to go away around 200C temp.. but not totally the problem is its winter right now and I install an oil cooler about two weeks ago now I rarely go above 180C.. but after watching some videos from YouTube of forged piston slap ..I conclude mine is not that bad lol!
mikea1 is offline  
post #72 of 79 Old 02-06-2017, 05:37 AM
WRXtuners Member
 
titter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,296
titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention titter is a WRX tech God, pay attention
Garage
yea piston slap is completely normal on forged motors.

Bugeye EJ207 Spec C 4EAT Wagon
happiness is measured in smiles per gallon
dont forget to wave
titter is offline  
post #73 of 79 Old 02-06-2017, 09:33 AM
WRXtuners Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 198
RoboTuner is known to be trustworthy and helpful RoboTuner is known to be trustworthy and helpful
My stroker pistons slap less than CP high compression pistons I had before. It's all about getting everything to operating temps before touching the throttle at all! I let mine idle for 10-15 minutes minimum in the cold weather (anything below 50F) and at least 10 minutes in the warm weather (anything above 50F), in fact I usually let the radiator fans kick on 1-2 times before I get moving as by then the fluids are warm and oil is flowing efficiently.

So while I will agree forged internals do slap, I wouldn't say they should continuously slap. If they do I'd double check your piston-to-wall clearances/ring gap, too tight/loose and you'll wear the skirts/walls bad. Not sure what your plan for break-in is but I'd change your oil before 1000 miles, then go another 500-1000 and do it again. Reason for the first change so soon is to rid the engine of break-in oils and other metals that WILL wear off for the first few hundred miles, the second change is to rid the rest of the oils and material the first change didn't catch. Also try to stay out of boost so your rings can seat properly and keep RPMs below 3500-4000 to help prevent excessive wear on the walls, or you may have to re-ring before 30k. Just trying to help a fellow built engine, as that how I was trained during engine build classes (3, one for blueprinting, one for modifying internals, one for tuning).

After your second oil change (using the method above) I would HIGHLY recommend sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. I do mine every oil change to help determine if I have anything going on inside that might not be noticeable without proper gauges while I replace things needed at 194k (and used parts that need to switched out), you could go every other OCI but I wouldn't until after you have 2 good/consistent baselines. I did this after changing the bad turbo and the oil showed the excessive metals from the failing turbo, the next OCI should show less and I'll know more if the turbo was the main culprit or the cams are heading south, ugh (but means I have a reason to upgrade).
RoboTuner is offline  
post #74 of 79 Old 02-06-2017, 06:16 PM
WRXtuners Member
 
Ruso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 285
Ruso is more helpful than not
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboTuner View Post
My stroker pistons slap less than CP high compression pistons I had before. It's all about getting everything to operating temps before touching the throttle at all! I let mine idle for 10-15 minutes minimum in the cold weather (anything below 50F) and at least 10 minutes in the warm weather (anything above 50F), in fact I usually let the radiator fans kick on 1-2 times before I get moving as by then the fluids are warm and oil is flowing efficiently.

So while I will agree forged internals do slap, I wouldn't say they should continuously slap. If they do I'd double check your piston-to-wall clearances/ring gap, too tight/loose and you'll wear the skirts/walls bad. Not sure what your plan for break-in is but I'd change your oil before 1000 miles, then go another 500-1000 and do it again. Reason for the first change so soon is to rid the engine of break-in oils and other metals that WILL wear off for the first few hundred miles, the second change is to rid the rest of the oils and material the first change didn't catch. Also try to stay out of boost so your rings can seat properly and keep RPMs below 3500-4000 to help prevent excessive wear on the walls, or you may have to re-ring before 30k. Just trying to help a fellow built engine, as that how I was trained during engine build classes (3, one for blueprinting, one for modifying internals, one for tuning).

After your second oil change (using the method above) I would HIGHLY recommend sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. I do mine every oil change to help determine if I have anything going on inside that might not be noticeable without proper gauges while I replace things needed at 194k (and used parts that need to switched out), you could go every other OCI but I wouldn't until after you have 2 good/consistent baselines. I did this after changing the bad turbo and the oil showed the excessive metals from the failing turbo, the next OCI should show less and I'll know more if the turbo was the main culprit or the cams are heading south, ugh (but means I have a reason to upgrade).
Robo, you should never idle your car for that long in any weather. What you're doing is washing the oil off your cylinder walls and putting unwanted wear on them and other parts of your engine.

Here's an explanation:

Strangely enough, I have a built shortblock with all forged internals and I have no piston slap. I just start the car, wait about 30 seconds to a minute depending on how cold it is (gotta defog windows and such) and drive staying out of boost for at least 5-10 minutes after the coolant gauge reaches operating temp.
Ruso is offline  
post #75 of 79 Old 02-09-2017, 10:16 AM
WRXtuners Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 198
RoboTuner is known to be trustworthy and helpful RoboTuner is known to be trustworthy and helpful
Did you notice he said "colder oil doesn't protect like warm oil" and just because your coolant is at 180F doesn't mean your oil will be anywhere near as soon. In fact oil runs hotter than coolant (above 210F), and coolant is water-based so it can absorb heat at a much faster rate than say oil which is mineral-based, which means that not only does the coolant need to warm the oil to 180F but the engine still being cold in some areas means the oil isn't going to reach its operating temps until the rest of the engine does.

Also note he doesn't mention ANYTHING about FI cars, specifially turbos. While we as subie owners are blessed with water-cooled turbos, many aftermarket turbos are not unless you specify you want/need it. So for those without water-cooled turbos they must wait until oil temps reach operating temperature. Yes drag cars may not care, but they're replacing their builds after 1 or 2 races, track cars warm up their cars before each race for this exact reason, tires grip better, oil flows faster reducing engine wear (24 races), and the car just drives better/more predictably.

I really don't like to argue, but between my education for building engines/cars, the general lack of knowledge by the consumer, and common sense our society seems to lack some days...it's frustrating to hear people repeat things that businesses in the market to make money (selling cars/parts, repairing cars) on those uniformed people. Not saying you specifically are uniformed not at all, but to those still building based on what they read, they need all the info to make a reliable decision.

It's a wheel, not a rim..the rim is the outer edge of the wheel, and last time I checked you can't buy just the rim lol.
RoboTuner is offline  
Reply

« Best build? | -

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome