My Hybrid Project got some questions along the way - Page 3 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #31 of 91 Old 07-27-2016, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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I found the problem ...its the valve lash
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post #32 of 91 Old 07-27-2016, 05:40 AM
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heh that was my next guess lol all is takes is fractions of millimeters to cause compression leaks. glad u got is sorted out.

engine is looking good man!

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post #33 of 91 Old 07-28-2016, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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yeah stupid me did not check the valve clearance before installing everything I'm not sure right now if Rallysports Direct shipped me the wrong valve size anyways i'll find out once I remove the head again ... looks like i'll be grinding some valve wish me luck lol!

thanks! this is what I have been working on for couple of months now.. ill post some more photos once I'm done
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post #34 of 91 Old 10-05-2016, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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back to my hybrid project .. I'm hoping to mount this within the month .... just wondering anybody know how much horse power HP can a stock OEM intake/exhaust valves can handle??
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post #35 of 91 Old 10-05-2016, 05:54 AM
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the stock 205 heads dont like to be spun over 7500(ish) and ive seen them handle 400(ish)whp.

i would be more worried about your 15 year old seals in your head. the metal parts are fine, but everything is else and might be on it way out...

getting some head work done isnt a bad idea. alot of people say to themselves "well im just gonna stay shotckish levels, maybe a bit more, maybe 350ish" then 350whp comes and you still want more. its fine, its only natural. so do the work to handle 4-5-600whp and if you dont ever reach there then you can feel safe you have an overbuilt motor to last you a long ass time.

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post #36 of 91 Old 10-05-2016, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titter View Post
the stock 205 heads dont like to be spun over 7500(ish) and ive seen them handle 400(ish)whp.

i would be more worried about your 15 year old seals in your head. the metal parts are fine, but everything is else and might be on it way out...

getting some head work done isnt a bad idea. alot of people say to themselves "well im just gonna stay shotckish levels, maybe a bit more, maybe 350ish" then 350whp comes and you still want more. its fine, its only natural. so do the work to handle 4-5-600whp and if you dont ever reach there then you can feel safe you have an overbuilt motor to last you a long ass time.
7500 rpm 400whp is fine by me .... i rebuild my heads already replaced all of the valve seal. The problem was the GSC performance valves i got the length is about 1mm longer than my stock JDM valve I don't know if Rally Sport Direct shipped me the wrong valve size or its because my heads are JDM heads. The GSC valves are 1mm longer making my valve clearance zero or -XXX causing my valves to be open all the time. I could replace all of the shims for me to still use the GSC valves the problem is its hard to find a supplier for the shims... so right now i have no choice but to install back the OEM JDM valves.
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post #37 of 91 Old 10-05-2016, 10:38 AM
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they should be fine as long as they are in good condition. give them a thorough inspection.

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post #38 of 91 Old 11-16-2016, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Update and need help once again lol!

So I installed the used JDM OEM valves.. lap them lash them order some shims which took more than two weeks before it was delivered and they send me the wrong part (beware of AutoBarn Subaru Countryside IL) … and only to find out the intake valve from cylinder 2 is still leaking ..took everything apart again and decided to install a new GSC power division valves (warning GSC valve are longer than OEM even with the smallest shims you will have to grind the tip of the stem) now everything is okay no more valve leak……………. But I still have one issue which is making crazy I don’t know if this is normal for Subaru boxer engines.. all intake valves remains open while the piston is moving forward causing air to come out the intake once again. The intake valves will only close totally after cranking the crank shaft 30 to 50 degree angle. I double triple check my timing belt alignment already.

Again my setup

- 2013 STI block
- JE hybrid pistons
- Manley rods
- Gates racing timing belt
- JDM heads
- JDM cam shaft
- GSC valves
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post #39 of 91 Old 11-16-2016, 05:51 AM
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its for inscreased scavenging effect allowing the exhuast path to suck in fresh air for a better charge draw.

or do you mean the intake is staying open on the exhaust stroke (4th stroke)?

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post #40 of 91 Old 11-16-2016, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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stroke 1 is when it sucks air right? its during the compression stage stroke 2? all of the intake valves stays open momentary...then it will totally close after 30 or 50 degree crank ... I need to know if this is normal before I mount my engine.
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post #41 of 91 Old 11-16-2016, 10:07 AM
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Call a machine shop. Ask them as if you were curious on the process as you "might go to them" and just want clarification and knowledge about the specs. They will be able to tell you.

The other problem is if you cut the valve stems down properly... You need to be on point with that or you risk there being some serious inconsistencies.

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post #42 of 91 Old 11-17-2016, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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I feel like I miss something anyways I'm still waiting for my Brian Crower valve spring kit and a new set of shims... hopefully I can re-assemble everything again on Monday.. Maybe I'm thinking its the JDM cam shaft?? but its weird it should be fine..

as for the GSC valve sorry only the intake side that is longer I did what I could for it to be flat and leveled .. that's why I'm warning people now lol!
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post #43 of 91 Old 11-17-2016, 11:03 AM
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IMO send your heads out to be assembled before you do any serious damage. I love encouraging DIY but there are some things that unless you have the right equipment shouldn't be done.

The cutting of the valve stems is what is concerning me the most. Better to find out now then after.

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post #44 of 91 Old 12-06-2016, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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#$@@%&**(@@#(*& !!!!!! same thing I manage to install back everything got my Brain Crower spring and I use 1.5mm cosworth head gasket ... valve clearance is perfect .. timing belt is dead perfect but same problem air is coming out the intake port during stroke 2 and this time I check the exhaust side and its crazy it sucks air! .......... right now I'm thinking JDM head my have a different valve clearance spec. I cant confirm this I cant find any JDM service manual... Last night I came across a Tomie JDM cam shaft and exhaust valve clearance is .40mm so a wild guess for me JDM camshaft my have a different valve clearance.. right now I'm thinking of just getting a Brain Crower stage 2 cam shaft hopefully this will solve it..
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post #45 of 91 Old 12-08-2016, 06:31 AM
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do you have 207 heads?

if so... beginning of post #3 in this thread has cam info
EJ207 Info - NASIOC

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