Knock Knock!! - Page 5 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #61 of 74 Old 10-02-2014, 08:17 AM
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Well I would think any amount is worth it's compared to have to constantly worry every time you start your car thinking "is this going to be the day something bad happens".

Better safe than sorry. :-)

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post #62 of 74 Old 10-02-2014, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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The are manley B series drop in pistons. made to fit factory bore. they apear to machined out of billet aluminum. They will maintain the factory bore and compression.


the crank shaft cost me 270.00 direct from subaru and the oil pump was 169 i think, but i get list price cause i work for the dealer.
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post #63 of 74 Old 10-02-2014, 06:36 PM
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My engine got Manley pistons as well, 4032 alloy items. Your prices are better then mine too, as I'm sure I paid retail for the OEM crank.

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Buckle up. The all-new WRX STi is here.
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post #64 of 74 Old 10-13-2014, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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The blue beast lives!!! got her up and running this weekend. pics to follow soon!!
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post #65 of 74 Old 10-13-2014, 08:51 AM
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Good to hear.
Looking forward to pics!
Feels good to be back doesn't it. :-)
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post #66 of 74 Old 10-13-2014, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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SO GOOOOOOD! gonna clean the bejeeesus out of it today and take some pictures.
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post #67 of 74 Old 10-14-2014, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Moar pictures!
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post #68 of 74 Old 10-14-2014, 02:28 PM
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Looks sweet with the timing belt cover painted. I was thinking about painting mine when I had my engine out but really wanted to get her back together.
You gonna match the rest of the engine plastics with it? Fuse cover/alternator cover/ect.
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post #69 of 74 Old 10-14-2014, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Its got a black perrin alt cover and radiator cover. Did the block gloss black ( which you cant see at all) valve covers black as well( also cant see lol) but with the intake and the covers and the inlet tube and cobb sf intake all being blue, i wanted to leave some black for contrast. ill get mo pictures this afternoon of the engine installed
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post #70 of 74 Old 10-16-2014, 10:14 PM
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nice to see pics of what the inside of my engine looked like after a spun rod bearing. I too am part of the spun bearing club. spun bearing at 7400 miles on my 14' WRX. long block and turbo replaced by dealer under warranty.

I too experienced a spun rod bearing upon starting up my car in the morning after driving 38 miles on the highway the night before. started up my car and it sounded like someone was hitting my engine with a hammer. drove it 15 miles and eventually heard the horrid sound of marbles and metal bouncing around in engine and it seized. dealer found metal shards in bottom end and scoring on the cams.

have a quick question though. my oil was full when the spun bearing happened. only thing I can think of is that my car was parked on an angle in a parking garage overnight before I started it. the driver side was higher than the passenger side on a downward angle. could there have been oil starvation on the driver side engine from the car being on such an angle when it started causing the bearing to seize?
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post #71 of 74 Old 10-17-2014, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Here is what i THINK happens, because i do not know for sure. When driving the vehicle any hard cornering allows oil to move away from the oil pick up. If the engine oil level gets low AT ALL it can starve the oil pump of oil when cornering. This can cause the bearing to spin or move slightly. I think it takes a little bit for it to wear the bearing enough to start knocking and in our cases i think engine temp played a part in not hearing the noise caused by the spun bearing. Once the engine cooled it allowed for free play in the connecting rod where it bolts to the crank, creating the nasty noise at start up the next morning. There's some smart fellers in here that might now better than I.
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post #72 of 74 Old 10-20-2014, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Epictofer View Post
Here is what i THINK happens, because i do not know for sure. When driving the vehicle any hard cornering allows oil to move away from the oil pick up. If the engine oil level gets low AT ALL it can starve the oil pump of oil when cornering. This can cause the bearing to spin or move slightly. I think it takes a little bit for it to wear the bearing enough to start knocking and in our cases i think engine temp played a part in not hearing the noise caused by the spun bearing. Once the engine cooled it allowed for free play in the connecting rod where it bolts to the crank, creating the nasty noise at start up the next morning. There's some smart fellers in here that might now better than I.
very interesting observation. i think your onto something here. my oil level at the time of the spun bearing was 100% full. I actually checked it the night before i started to drive to work by chance and when i was stuck on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck.

your theory would hold true if my theory was true about the car being started on a almost a 45 degree angle on a cold morning and the oil was too far away from the either the oil pump or the bearing in the #4 cylinder due to the angle. is the oil pump on our cars on the drivers side or passenger side of the engine?
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post #73 of 74 Old 10-20-2014, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Its driven by the crankshaft actually so its right square in the middle
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post #74 of 74 Old 10-23-2014, 05:37 PM
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Its driven by the crankshaft actually so its right square in the middle
well that puts a different paint job on things. the only way my bearing could have spun that morning if the oil was full was if the oil pan was tilted far enough towards the passenger side that there was no oil lubricating the #4 cylinder upon start up. highly unlikely. I think youre correct about the damage occurring the night before on my way to work and when the engine cooled down it made room for the bearing to move.

I could have also got on it a little too early while driving to work. I wasn't aware until joining this forum that the temp gauge on your dash does not reflect the OVERALL temp of the engine including the oil. it takes the engine oil a full 10 minutes or so to warm up when the water temp reaches full temp in about 3 minutes. that leaves a danger zone of about 7 minutes where the oil is still cool and not lubricating at its full capacity. my next investment on my rex is an oil temp gauge. especially with winter its way.
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